tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48193970318695595772024-03-04T20:30:09.846-08:00Ribe pel mónJordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.comBlogger38125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-17961588707047940322018-07-05T03:20:00.000-07:002018-07-05T03:20:03.713-07:00Fi del viatge / End of the trip<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />
Ens allunyem dels Himalaies amb la Nona per tornar a la civilització i anar fins a Pokhara, una ciutat a vora d'un llac. Allà gaudim dels plaers que gairebé no haviem tingut a la muntanya; internet, dutxa calenta, roba neta, menjar diferent, música, cerveses, etc. Fins i tot vam anar a veure la pel.lícula Hotel Budapest a l'aire lliure amb una parella austríaca que haviem conegut al trek. També vam aprofitar per fer parapent i veure el llac desde l'aire.<br />
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Quan ja estem refets decidim empendre ruta cap al sud i anem a Tansen, un poble al cim d'un turó. Ens quedem a casa d'una família local que té un allotjament. Eren una família molt maca, els fills que eren més o menys de la nostra edat sempre s'assentàven amb nosaltres a menjar i la mare cuinava un dal bhat deliciós. El dia de partida la mare ens va posar tika (pols vermella) al front perquè ens portès bona sort. No va durar gaire perquè al cap d'una estona ens ho haviem refregat per tot el front sense voler. <br />
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"Buda was born in Nepal" (Buda va nèixer al Nepal), això és el que porten molts taxistes aquí. I es que resulta que quan India i Nepal no existien encara, la que va ser la mare del príncep Siddharta (que es va convertir en Buda quan es va iluminar) estava de viatje quan es va posar de part. Siddharta va nèixer a Lumbini, que anys desprès seria Nepal. Però va crèixer al palau on vivia la seva família a India. Doncs vam anar a visitar Lumbini, que seria com Betlem pels cristians. És una meca budista on moltíssims països hi tenen el seu centre budista. Vam llogar unes bicis atrotinades i vam anar a veure el lloc on va nèixer buda i alguns centres budistes: Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Birmània, Vietnam, Korea, Xina, etc. <br />
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Després de varis busos locals i un mototaxi, arribem al parc nacional de Chitwan. Vam anar a donar una volta per la tarda i ja vam veure 3 rinocerons asiàtics, semblen composats per varies armadures, una cueta super graciosa i unes orelles molt adorables. Per la nit, tornant de sopar veiem un rinoceront "petit" caminant pel mig del carrer del poble amb tot de gent fent-li fotos darrera, semblava jumanji. Es veu que aquest rinoceront té el costum de sortir del parc nacional i passejar pel poble de tant en tant. <br />
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L'endemà vam fer una ruta pel riu amb una canoa de fusta on vam veure cocodrils, rinoceronts i ocells. Ens van deixar a un punt del riu i d'alla vam fer una excursió caminant tot el dia. Vam seguir les petjades dels tigres de bengala i els ossos, vam veure búfals salvatges, jabalís, cèrvols i més rinocerons.<br />
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Marxem del parc nacional per adentrar-nos a la selva, aquest cop urbana, de Kathmandu. Poc a poc aconsegueixo veure coses boniques entre el caos de la ciutat, la pols i els carrers sense asfaltar i amb forats. Descobrim patis interiors que amaguen tranquilitat i alguns petits temples, explorem els mercats que van originar la ciutat com a centre de la ruta de la seda, debatim sobre la vida i la mort al veure les cremacions a vora del riu, aprofitem per menjar coses diferents i escoltar música en directe. Ja ha arribat el moment que la Nona ha de marxar, és fara extrany continuar a Nepal sense ella, però ens tornarem a veure molt aviat. <br />
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Just el dia següent, la Giada, una molt bona amiga de Brussel·les arriba a Kathmandu per treballar una setmana. Així que quedem tant bon punt arriba a la ciutat. L'última vegada que ens vam veure va ser fa uns 3 anys a una visita que li vaig fer a Brighton (Anglaterra), doncs ella viu allà. No em deixarà mai de sorprendre aquestes alineacions de planetes que fan que coincideixi amb amics pel món. Ens vam posar al dia mentre li vaig fer ruta per la ciutat, vam fer un bon dinar, cerveses, posta de sol i vam acabar a un concert d'una banda nepalí. Va ser un dia genial!<br />
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Parlant d'alineacions de planetes, en vaig tenir un parell més. Vaig quedar amb el Chris, un noi que vaig conéixer a Birmània quan viatjava amb la seva nòvia i ella va veure a l'instagram que jo estava a Nepal així que ens va avisar. Quan vaig anar a l'hostal on s'allotjava vaig conéixer a una noia de Barcelona, reumatòloga, que quan li vaig dir que jo estava al grup de teatre de medicina diu, ara entenc perquè em sonaves, jo t'he vist actuar, i llavors vaig caure que la vaig conéixer un dia que vam anar de cerveses.<br />
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L'endemà vaig anar al monestir de Kopan a fer un curs d'introducció al budisme tibetà i meditació. El curs el donava una monja budista que és canadenca i porta més de 30 anys amb el budisme. Ens donaven vàries classes al dia, meditacions, una hora de discussió en grup, bon menjar, no es podien utilitzar dispositius electrònics i absolut silenci després de sopar fins al final del dinar del dia següent. Aquest curs em va anar que ni pintat, a més d'aprendre un munt de coses de la religió budista, em va servir per tenir temps de reflexió sobre tot el viatge, treure conclusions, preparar-me per la tornada... Pel que fa al budisme em va semblar super interessant, per començar el fet que tota la religió es centra en cultivar la teva ment a travès de la meditació i l'aprenentatge, ser millor individu i crèixer com a persona, i no en adorar a ningú. També perquè no volen convertir a ningú, de fet t'aconsellen que intentis seguir amb la teva pròpia religió en cas que en tinguis una i que apliquis el que et sigui útil del budisme, que no començar de zero amb el budisme. És molt filosòfica, volen que t'ho plantegis tot, et repeteixen constantment que no creguis res del que diu el budisme sino que ho qüestionis tot, a més d'intentar investigar científicament moltes de les coses de les que parlen.<br />
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Al monestir he conegut a una noia de Barcelona que m'ha parlat molt bé d'un voluntariat a una escola de Kathmandu i que necessitaven a gent, així que els hi vaig enviar un mail i estic passant l'última setmana aquí. Són 150 alumnes d'entre 4 i 14 anys que les seves famílies no es poden permetre una escola normal, així que els hi cobren molt poquet i n'hi ha 50 que no paguen res. Em donen allotjament i menjar a canvi de treball, així que els ajudo amb coses que no saben fer amb l'ordinador, he donat algunes classes de anglès i matemàtiques, i els hi he creat un compte a "workaway" perquè rebin més voluntaris que no n'han rebut gaires. Visc a casa del director que està dins de l'escola, amb la seva dona, el seu fill que va a la universitat i 12 nens que els seus pares no se'n poden fer càrrec. La veritat es que tots els nens són super macos, obedients i tenen un munt de ganes d'aprendre.<br />
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No em puc creure que estigui escrivint l'última entrada del viatge, la veritat és que estic molt emocionat per la tornada. He trobat a faltar casa des del minut 1 del viatge i s'ha fet molt dur estar lluny de la família, amics i la meva terra. També és cert que quan inicialment havia plantejat la tornada, fa 6 mesos, just havia acabat de treballar 3 mesos a Austràlia i per moltes ganes que tenia de tornar, sentia que seria tallar el viatge quan encara volia veure més parts d'Austràlia i una mica d'Àsia. En aquell moment també vaig tenir por de si en algún moment arribaria el sentiment de tornar, però ha arribat, ara estic llest per tornar i sento que he complert aquest somni. Que no vol dir que en algun altre moment de la vida torni a fer un gran viatge, també pot ser, però això ja es veurà. <br />
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No se ben be quin futur m'espera però no m'importa, aquesta és una de les millors decisions que he pres a la meva vida. Ha sigut un autoregal amb el que m'he sentit més viu que mai. He viscut experiencies locals, dutxat amb un cubell d'aigua freda, conreat un camp descalç, acampat a la platja, dormit en una hamaca en un vaixell de càrrega amb animals o en una barraca a una finca de cafè, fet cervesa, treballat en una altre país, voluntariat a centres de rescat d'animals i granges, viscut amb amics, conduït per llocs espectaculars, vist rituals indígenes, caminat desde les platges més espectaculars que un pot imaginar als deserts, cascades, ruines, coves, selves, volcans, neu, llacs i muntanyes altíssimes. He explorat el fons marí i el cel. He vist animals tant increïbles que em costa de creure que siguin reals. He anat amb tot tipus de transport; cotxe, colectius, furgos, motos, mototaxis, tractors, bicis, camions, trens, busos, piragua, barcos, llanxes, velers, barcos de càrrega, avions... He probat tot tipus de menjar, desde restaurants d'estrella michelin a menjar amb les mans assegut a terra en una cuina petita i fosca. He tingut amics i familia que m'han acompanyat durant el viatge, i d'altres que m'han acompanyat virtualment des de casa. M'he sentit tant estimat en tot moment que m'ha estat impossible sentir-me sol. Durant el viatge, he conegut a unes persones increïbles que m'han ensenyat tantes coses i mai ha importat la nostra procedència, cultura, raça, religió, ni cap de les experiències que hem tingut prèviament, al fi i al cap ens uneix un vincle que és més gran que tot això, el fet que som persones. Aquest viatge ha estat una oda a la vida!<br />
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We leave the Himalayas with Nona to go back to civilization and head to Pokhara, a city on the shore of a lake. There, we enjoy the pleasures we didn't have on the mountains; internet, hot shower, clean clothes, different food, music, beers, etc. We even went to see the movie Hotel Budapest outdoors with an Austrian couple we met on the trek. We also took the opportunity to paraglide and see the lake from the air.<br />
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When we are recovered, we decide to head south towards Tansen, a town on top of a hill. We stay at a homestay with a very lovely family. The children, who were more or less our age, always sat with us to eat the delicious meals that her mother cooked. On the day of departure, the mother put tika (red powder) on our forehead to bring us good luck. It did not last long because after a while we had scrubbed it all over the forehead without noticing.<br />
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"Buddha was born in Nepal", this is what many taxi drivers have in their taxis. When India and Nepal didn't exist yet, the mother of Prince Siddharta (who became Buddha when it was enlightened) was traveling when she gave birth. Siddharta was born in Lumbini, which years later would be Nepal. But he grew up in the palace where his family lived in India. Well, we went to visit Lumbini, which would be like Bethlehem by the Christians. It is a Buddhist Mecca where many countries have their Buddhist center. We rented a couple of bikes and went to see the place where Buddha was born and some Buddhist centers: Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Myanmar, Vietnam, Korea, China, etc.<br />
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After several local buses and a tuc tuc, we arrived at Chitwan National Park. We went for a walk in the afternoon and we saw 3 Asian rhinoceros, they seem made up of several armors, a funny tail and very adorable ears. At night, going back from dinner we saw a "small" rhino walking through the streets of the village followed by people taking pictures, it seemed Jumanji. They told me that this rhino has the habit of leaving the national park and going around the village from time to time. The next day we went through the river with a wooden canoe where we saw crocodiles, rhinos and birds. They left us on the shore and from there we went for a walk all day. We followed the footsteps of Bengale tigers and bears, we saw wild buffalos, wild pigs, deers and more rhinos. <br />
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We left the national park to get into the jungle, this time an urban one, Kathmandu. Slowly, I get to see beautiful things between the chaos of the city, the dust and the unsealed streets with holes. We discover inner courtyards that hide tranquility and some small temples, we explore the markets that originated the city as the center of the silk route, we discuss life and death when we see cremations on the banks of the river, we take advantage to eat different kinds of food and listen to live music. The moment that Nona has to leave has arrived, it will be weird to continue in Nepal without her, but we will see her soon.<br />
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On the following day, Giada, a very good friend of Brussels arrives in Kathmandu to work for a week. So we met as soon as she reached the city. The last time we saw her was about 3 years ago at a visit that I did to her in Brighton (England), because she lives there. I will never stop being surprised of these planets alignments that make me meet friends around the world. We updated our lives while I went showed her the city, we had a good lunch, beers, sunset and finished in a concert from a Nepalese band. It was a great day!<br />
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Talking about planets alignments, I had a couple more of them. I met Chris, a guy that I knew in Myanmar when he was travelling with his girlfriend, she saw on instagram that I'm in Nepal and told us. When I went to the hostel where he was staying, I met a girl from Barcelona, reumatologist, that when I told her that I act on the theatre group of medicine she told me, that's why you were familiar to me, I've seen you acting, and I realized I met her one day when we went for some beers. <br />
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The next day, I went to the Kopan Monastery to take an introductory course on Tibetan Buddhism and meditation. The course was given by a Buddhist nun who is Canadian and has been Buddhist for more than 30 years. They gave us several classes a day, meditations, an hour of group discussion, good food, electronic devices could not be used and absolute silence after dinner until the end of the next day's lunch. This course was perfect for me as I didn't only learn a lot of things from the Buddhist religion, I had the time to think on the whole trip, draw conclusions, prepare myself for the return... I think Buddhism is super interesting, to begin with the fact that the whole religion is focused on cultivating your mind through meditation and learning, being a better individual and growing as a person, and not worshiping anyone. Also because they don't want to convert anyone, actually they advise that you should try to continue with your own religion if you have one and that you apply what is useful to you from Buddhism, rather than starting from scratch with Buddhism. It is very philosophical, they want you to think everything, they constantly repeat you not to believe anything that Buddhism says, that you should question everything, as well as trying to scientifically research many of the things that they talk about.<br />
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In the monastery I met a girl from Barcelona who told me very nice things of a volunteering at a school in Kathmandu and that they needed people, so I sent them an email and I'm spending the last week here. There are 150 students between 4 and 14 years old that their families can't afford a normal school, so they pay a really low fee and there are 50 of them who don't pay anything. They give me accommodation and food in exchange for work, so I help them with things they don't know how to do with the computer, I've taught some English and maths classes, and I have created them an account on Workaway so that they can receive more volunteers because they almost don't receive any. I live in the house of the director which is inside the school, with his wife, his son who goes to the university and 12 children whose parents can not afford taking care of them. Actually, all children are super-cute, obedient and have a lot of eagerness to learn. <br />
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I can't believe I'm writing the last entry of the trip, the truth is that I am very excited about the return. I have missed my home from minute 1 of the trip and it has been very hard to be away from family, friends and my place. It's also true, that when I initially had planned the go back, 6 months ago, I had just finished working for 3 months in Australia, although I really wanted to go back, I felt that it would cut the trip when I still wanted to see more parts of Australia and a bit of Asia. At that moment I was also afraid of whether at some point I would have the feeling of finally coming back, but it has arrived, now I am ready to go back and I feel that I've fulfilled this dream. That does not mean that at another time in life I will do a big trip again, but I will see it in the future.<br />
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I do not know what the future awaits me but I don't care, this is one of the best decisions I have made in my life. It has been a self-present with which I have felt more alive than ever. I have experienced local experiences, showered with a bucket of cold water, cultivated a field barefoot, camped in the beach, slept in a hammock on a cargo ship with animals or in a barrack at a coffee farm, brewed beer, worked in another country, volunteered in animal rescue centers and farms, lived with friends, driven by spectacular places, seen indigenous rituals, walked from the most spectacular beaches one can imagine to deserts, waterfalls, ruins, caves, forests, volcanoes, snow, lakes and high mountains. I have explored the deep sea and the sky. I have seen such incredible animals that I find it hard to believe that they are real. I have gone with all kinds of transport; Car, shared autos, vans, motorbikes, tuc tucs, tractors, bikes, trucks, trains, buses, canoes, boats, speedboats, sailboats, cargo ships, airplanes... I have tried all kinds of food, from michelin star restaurants to eating with your hands sitting on the floor in a small dark kitchen. I have had friends and family that have accompanied me during the trip, and others that have accompanied me virtually from home. I have felt so much loved at all times that it has been impossible for me to feel alone. During the trip, I've met some incredible people who have taught me so many things and have never been important our origin, culture, race, religion, or any of the experiences that we have had before, at the end there's something bigger than all that, the fact that we are people. This trip has been an ode to the life!Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-57135561836551134462018-06-23T22:49:00.001-07:002018-06-23T22:53:36.976-07:00Nepal<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />
Benvinguts a l'any 2075! No, l'últim destí del viatje no ha estat el futur sino que a Nepal no compten els anys segons Crist! Els seus mesos tampoc van del nostre 1 al 31 sino que van del 15 al 14, dia amunt dia avall. Això em fa pensar en tantes coses que donem per suposades perquè a la nostra societat són així però que no tenen perquè ser així a tot arreu. <br />
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Vaig venir a Nepal fa 3 anys amb l'Ivan, la Mercè i la Isa (que també van venir a veure'm a Filipines), va ser abans del terratrèmol, vam estar per la vall de Kathmandu i després vam anar a viatjar per l'India. Nomès van ser 4 dies però l'amabilitat nepalesa i veure els himalaies, on les muntanyes petites són més altes que la muntanya més alta d'Europa, va fer que ara torni a ser aquí. <br />
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La Nona, una super bona amiga de la piscifactoria (el meu grup de teatre), vindrà d'aquí 8 dies a viatjar amb mi pel Nepal durant 24 dies. Mentrestant, decideixo anar a Pokhara, una ciutat a vora d'un llac a 7h de Kathmandu. Visito una mica la zona i parlant amb el propietari de l'hostal, el Vishnu, em diu que ell és d'un poble de la muntanya a 3h d'allà, jo també li explico que sóc de la muntanya i em diu que si em fa gràcia pot parlar amb la seva família i que m'allotgin uns dies allà. Sona molt bé així que parlo amb un australià, el Jeremy, que havia conegut a Kathmandu i també s'apunta. Anem a buscar el jeep i allà ens trobem amb el tiet del Vishnu que també va al poble. <br />
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La "carretera" s'acaba 10min abans d'arribar i fem l'últim tros a peu. Arribo i conec a la familia, els avis, un dels fills d'aquest, el Ganesh que és professor d'anglès, la seva dona i un dels seus fills que té 8 anys. L'avi em fa seure i després de preguntar-me pels meus pares, avis, germans, si tenia dona i fills (és força típic nepalí), em diu "on tens les cartes?", li dic que a la motxilla i em diu que les vagi a buscar. Es veu que el tiet que ens va portar em va veure les cartes a la motxilla i el primer que va fer va ser dir-li a l'avi perquè li encanta jugar a cartes. Em va ensenyar a jugar al Romi i així vam passar cada nit. <br />
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El menjar típic de Nepal és el dal bhat i el típic nepalí el menja per esmorzar, dinar i sopar. Consisteix amb arròs blanc, vegetals, sopa de llenties i un curry que pot ser de patata, pollastre, carbassa, mongetes, de fruita jack o del que sigui. A l'hora de menjar anem a la cuina, que és un passadís molt petit, ennegrit pel fum, on l'àvia de la familia seurà al fons a terra, a la vora dels fogons i tots seurem a terra al llarg del passadís. L'àvia ens servirà un deliciós dal bhat a tots, ens mirarà com ens el mengem i farà un somriure immens cada vegada que li diguis "mitho cha" (deliciós en nepalès). Al primer àpat em van donar una cullera per menjar però vaig veure que tothom utilitzava la mà dreta per menjar, així que al següent àpat ja els hi vaig dir que tampoc em feia falta cullera, em van ensenyar el truquillo de menjar l'arròs amb la mà utilitzant el dit gros de palanca i a partir d'ençà ho feia així. <br />
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Els dies em passàven volant, un dia vam fer una excursió on el petit de la casa ens va fer de guia, un altre vam llaurar un camp amb les mules i les aixades per preparar-lo per la plantada d'arròs, el Ganesh em va ensenyar una mica de nepalès. Abans de marxar, l'avi em va donar un barret tradicional que els senyors grans nepalesos porten i es va oferir per acompanyar-me, juntament amb la seva dona, al poble més pròxim, més d'una hora caminant, per agafar el bus i que no haguès de matinar per agafar el jeep. El camí va ser molt bonic i coneixien a tot deu, la gent sortia de les cases a saludar-los i a preguntar qui era jo.<br />
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El bus local va arribar, anava tant ple que havia d'anar de peu i gairebé no em podia ni moure. De sobte el bus va haver de parar perquè es va punxar una roda i vam baixar a estirar les cames mentre canviaven la roda. Un noi se'm va apropar i em va preguntar d'on era en nepalès, jo no el vaig entendre i m'ho va preguntar en anglès. Em va dir que com que portava el barret tradicional, la gent del bus comentava si era extranger o local. El noi va aclarar-li el dubte a la gent del fons del bus i em va convidar a un refresc. Vam estar parlant molt i al tornar pujar em va fer passar fins al fons del bus i em va aconseguir un seient privilegiat al terra del passadís. <br />
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Torno cap a Kathmandu i m'allotjo a l'hostal per anar a buscar a la Nona a l'aeroport. La Nona no en sabia res, així que parlo amb el propietari de l'hostal al que la Nona havia reservat el taxi per recollir-la a l'aeroport perquè em porti a mi també. Allà vaig esperar-la amb el gorro nepalès i un cartell "Namaste Nona", va ser molt emocionant la trobada!<br />
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Vam fer una mica de turisme per la ciutat i a preparar-nos perquè l'endemà marxàvem per començar el trekking del Manaslu circuit. Pel trekking del camp base Everest necessitàvem agafar un vol intern i el circuit de l'Annapurna ens van dir que era extremadament turístic, la gent el feia sense guia i havien construit una carretera, així que vam optar pel circuit del Manaslu, que era molt menys turístic, es necessitava guia i me n'havien parlat molt bé. Després d'un bus local de 10.5 hores per carreteres no asfaltades i plenes de sots, parades múltiples per recollir gent, paquets o litxis dels arbres, xarrades amb locals que ens preguntàven d'on som, si som parella, fins i tot un astròleg em va llegir les mans i va predir que tindria 3 fills, després li va dir el mateix a la Nona i que viuria més de 85 anys, arribem al poble des d'on comencem la caminata, Arkhet.<br />
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Caminem cada dia 6-7h, dormim en tea houses, ens dutxem amb aigua congelada, sovint amb un cubell, i mengem gairebe sempre el mateix. El paisatge comença a canviar, de boscos tropicals a boscos que podrien ser del pirineu. Comencen a apareixer muntanyes nevades colossals al voltant. El nostre guia, el Tenji, ens diu "aquest es el Manaslu", un dels 8 gegants de Nepal, 8156m. Després de fer-li un book de fotos i passades dues hores em diu, aix no, no es el Manaslu. Vaja... A la segona també va fallar. El nostre guia és sherpa de la regió de l'Everest i no ha vingut moltes vegades al Manaslu. Arribem a Lho, un poble a dalt d'una muntanya des d'on veiem ara si, per primera vegada el Manaslu. És molt impressiomant veure aquesta muntanya totalment nevada i amb les dues puntes que la fan molt especial.<br />
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Anem creuant cares somrients, vestits tradicionals, nens dient Namaste (hola en nepalès), d'altres demanant xocolatines, venedors de pollets, gent cultivant els camps, dones rentant roba al riu, gent carregant coses amb el cap (fustes, portes, cistells amb pedres o branques), monjos, monestirs, parets amb inscripcions i dibuixos budistes (mani walls), gossos maquíssims i d'altres pollosos, vaques, bous, yaks i moltíssimes mules carregant provisions. Pel camí trobem un dispensari i la Nona, que és metgessa de família, vol entrar-hi. Allà hi coneixem a un noi que és "paramèdic" i ens explica tota la feina que fan amb els pocs recursos que tenen al mig de la muntanya.<br />
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Arribem a Samagaun, un poble a 3550m envoltat per muntanyes nevades espectaculars. Aquí som concients per primera vegada que la carretera més pròxima està a 4 dies caminant o amb mula. Com que vam arribar aviat vam anar a fer una excursió a un llac preciós al peu d'un glaciar juntament amb els guies, un francès i un belga que hem conegut. Per la tarda surto amb la Nona a donar una volta i treiem el cap a una escola propera a l'allotjament on vam conéixer a un professor americà que porta la guarderia del poble. Està gestionada per l'organització Mountain Child i ensenyen a nens de 3-5 anys nepalí, tibetà i anglès amb professors locals i extrangers. També els hi donen un àpat al dia, una dutxa calenta a la setmana i es raspallen les dents. Ens diu que per ell aquesta és la millor època ja que és final de temporada i per tant no hi han molts turistes, però encara fa bon temps i podem veure tot verd i ple de flors. Just en aquesta època hi ha recolecta d'un èsser molt curiós, mig cuc mig planta, que és un curatot i es ven molt car al mercat xinès per medicina tradicional i potenciador sexual (per variar). <br />
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Continuem la ruta i els arbres van desapareixent, ara nomès queden camps verds i muntanyes rocoses i nevades. Per camí de sobte veiem una marmota, i una altra, i una altra... N'hi havien un munt, són d'un color més clar que les del pirineu i més exhibicionistes. <br />
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El 25 d'Abril de 2015 va succeir el primer d'una sèrie de terratrèmols devastadors al Nepal. Hi van haver més 9000 morts i moltíssims damnificats, alguns se'ls hi va destruir la casa d'un dia per l'altre. Segons els locals, justament ara, 3 anys més tard, el govern ha alliberat les ajudes rebudes per la reconstrucció de les zones més afectades i també ha posat un plaç de 6 mesos per construir, així que a tots els pobles estan construint com bojos per rebre els ajuts.<br />
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Avui fem nit a 4400m d'altura, cada vegada es fa més difícil pujar i demà és el gran dia que pujarem a 5106m. Dormim a una cabanya de pedra amb els guies i fora feia un fred de deu, però per sort anàvem ben abrigats. <br />
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Ens aixequem ben d'hora i comencem a pujar, avui si que es fa dura la pujada, raletim el pas però ens mantenim constants. Aquí ja no hi queden ni plantes, ni flors i gairebé ni gespa, només hi han pedregals i neu. Finalment assolim el Larke Pass, és incrïble pensar que estem a més de 5100m i al nostre voltant només hi han muntanyes que encara són més altes, pedres i neu. A mesura que anem baixant no em trobo massa fi, tinc una mica de nàusees, suposo que serà l'altura. Quan vaig estar a Bolivia fa 7 anys, vaig fer el Huayna Potosi (6088m) però portava més temps en altura i no em va afectar gaire. Vam baixar bastant i de sobte em vaig trobar molt millor. Vam parar a casa d'una dona que vivia a una tenda al mig de la muntanya amb la seva filla i un gos. Vam fer un té i un xapati amb el pernil que em van enviar els meus pares i això em va recuperar del tot.<br />
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Aviat acabem el trekking i ja anem de tornada a la civilització passant per una part del circuit de l'Annapurna. Es fa extrany veure cotxes, sentir pitades i no estar envoltat de muntanyes tota l'estona.<br />
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[ENGLISH]<br />
Welcome to the year 2075! No, the last destination of the trip has not been the future but in Nepal they do not count the years according to Christ! Their months do not go from our 1 to 31 but go from 15 to 14, more or less. This makes me think of so many things that we take for granted because in our society they are like that but they do not have to be like that everywhere.<br />
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I came to Nepal three years ago with Ivan, Mercè and Isa (who also came to see me in the Philippines), it was before the earthquake, we stayed in the valley of Kathmandu and then went to India. It was only 4 days, but the nepalese kindness and seeing the Himalayas, where the small mountains are taller than the highest mountain in Europe, caused that I'm here again.<br />
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Nona, a super friend of mine from the "piscifactoria" (my theater group), will come here in 8 days to travel with me for Nepal for 24 days. In the meantime, I've decided to go to Pokhara, a city on the side of a lake at 7h from Kathmandu. I visited the city a bit and I spoke with the owner of the hostel, Vishnu, who told me that he comes from a town in the mountain 3 hours from there, I told him that I also come from the mountain and he told me that he can talk to his family to stay there for a few days. It sounds great so I spoke with an Australian, Jeremy, who I met in Kathmandu and he decides to join. We went to take the local jeep and there we found the uncle of Vishnu who also goes to town and helps us to reach there.<br />
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The "road" ends 10 minutes before arriving and we make the last part on foot. I arrive and I knew the family, the grandparents, a child of them, Ganesh, who is an English teacher, his wife and one of his children who is 8 years old. The grandfather makes me sit down and after asking about my parents, grandparents, siblings, if I had a wife and children (it's quite typical nepali questions). After that, he told me "where do you have the cards?", I told him that they are in my backpack and he told me go to take them. The uncle that took us saw them in my backpack and the first thing he did was telling the grandfather because he loves playing cards. He taught me to play Romi and this is how we spent every night.<br />
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The typical food of Nepal is dal bhat and the typical nepali eats it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It consists of white rice, vegetables, lentil soup and a curry that can be potato, chicken, pumpkin, beans, jack fruit or whatever. At the eating time we go to the kitchen, which is a very small corridor, blackened by smoke, where the grandmother will sit in the end of it on the floor, next to the stoves and we will all sit on the floor along the corridor. She will serve to us all, she will look at us as while we eat and she will make a huge smile every time you say "mitho cha" (delicious in Nepali). At the first meal I was given a spoon to eat but I saw that everyone used the right hand to eat, so at the next meal I told them that neither did I need a spoon, they told me the trick to eat the rice with the hand using the big finger as a lever and from then on I did it that way.<br />
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The days we were flying, one day we had an excursion where the little one of the house was our guide, another we worked with mules and farming tools to prepare the field for the rice plantation, Ganesh taught me a bit of Nepali. Before leaving, the grandfather gave me a traditional hat that the old Nepali men wear and he offered to accompany me, along with his wife, to the nearest town, more than an hour walking, to take the bus in order that I didn't to take the jeep early morning. The way was very beautiful and they knew everyone, people left the houses to greet them and ask who I was.<br />
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The local bus arrived, it was so full that I had to stand up and I almost couldn't move. Suddenly, the bus had to stop because a wheel was flatened and we went down to stretch the legs while changing the wheel. A boy approached me and asked me where I was in Nepali, I did not understand him and he asked me in English. He told me that as he was wearing the traditional hat, the people from the bus didn't know if I was a foreigner or a local. The boy clarified the doubts to the people at the end of the bus and invited me to a drink. We were talking a lot and, when we got back, it made me move to the end of the bus and I got a privileged seat on the floor of the corridor.<br />
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I came back to Kathmandu and I stayed at the hostel to go to pick up Nona at the airport. The Nona did not know anything, so I spoke with the owner of the hostel that Nona had booked the taxi, to bring me also to the airport. There I waited for here with the Nepali hat and a sign saying "Namaste Nona", meeting her was very exciting!<br />
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We did some sightseeing in the city and we prepared everything because the next day we left to begin the trekking of the Manaslu circuit. For the Everest base camp trekking we needed to take an internal flight and the people told me that Annapurna circuit was extremely touristy, that we didn't need a guide and they've built a road, so we chose the Manaslu circuit, which was much less touristy, a guide was needed and they recommended it so much. After a 10.5 hour local bus for unsealed roads that were full of bumps, multiple stops to collect people, packages or lychees from the trees, talks with locals that asked us where we come from, if we are a couple, even an astrologer read my hands and predicted that I would have 3 children, then he said the same to Nona and that she would live for more than 85 years, we arrived to the village from where we started the walk, Arkhet.<br />
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We walk every day 6-7h, we sleep in tea houses, we shower with frozen water, often with a bucket, and eat almost always the same. The landscape begins to change, from tropical forests to forests that could be from the Pyrenees. They begin to appear colossal snowy mountains around. Our guide, Tenji, tells us "this is the Manaslu", one of the 8 giants of Nepal, 8156m. After taking a photo book of the mountain and continuing for two hours he told us "this is not the Manaslu". Oh... The second one also failed. Our guide is Sherpa from the Everest region and hasn't come many times to Manaslu. We arrived at Lho, a town on top of a mountain from where we saw, for the first time, the Manaslu. It is very impressive to see this mountain totally snowy and with the two tips that make it very special.<br />
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We are crossing smiling faces, traditional dresses, children saying Namaste (hello in Nepali), others asking for chocolate, sellers of chicks, people cultivating fields, women washing clothes in the river, people carrying things with their heads (wood, doors, baskets with stones or branches), monks, monasteries, walls with inscriptions and Buddhist drawings (mani walls), gorgeous dogs and others with fleas, cows, oxes, yaks and many mules loading provisions. On the way, we found a clinic and Nona, who is a family doctor, wanted to enter. There we met a boy who is "paramedic" and explained all the work they do with the few resources they have in the middle of the mountain.<br />
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We arrived at Samagaun, a village at 3550m surrounded by spectacular snowy mountains. Here we are aware for the first time that the nearest road is 4 days walking or with a mule. As we arrived soon, we went for an excursion to a beautiful lake at the foot of a glacier along with the guides, a French and a Belgian we met. In the afternoon, I left with Nona to walk around and we entered to a school close to the accommodation where we met an American professor who manages the village nursery. It is run by the Mountain Child organization and they teach Nepali, Tibetan and English to 3-5 year old children with local and foreign teachers. They also give them a meal a day, a hot shower a week and brush their teeth. He told us that for him this is the best time to do the trek since it is the end of the season and therefore there are not many tourists, but there's still good weather and we can see everything green and full of flowers. Only at this time, there's a very special being, half-worm half-plant, which is sold very expensive in the Chinese market for traditional medicine and sexual enhancer.<br />
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We continue the route and the trees disappear, now there are green fields, rocky and snowy mountains. On the way, we suddenly see a marmot, and another, and another ... There were a lot, they are of a clearer color than those of the Pyrenees and more exhibitionists.<br />
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On April 25, 2015, the first of a series of devastating earthquakes in Nepal happened. There were more 9,000 deads and many victims who lost the house from one day to the next one. According to the people, just now, 3 years later, the government has released the aid received for the reconstruction of the most affected areas and has also set a 6 month period to build, so all the towns are building crazily for receiving the aid.<br />
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Today we spend a night at 4400m high, it is becoming increasingly difficult to climb and tomorrow is the great day that we will climb at 5106m. We slept in a stone cabin with the guides and outside it was so cold, but luckily we were very warm.<br />
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We got up really early and started going up. Today, it is harder to climb, we go step by step but constant. There are no longer plants, no flowers and almost no grass, there are only stones and snow. Finally, we reach the Larke Pass, it is incredible to think that we are more than 5100m and there are only mountains that are still higher, stones and snow around us. As we go down I do not feel so well, I have a bit of nausea, I guess it will be the height. When I was in Bolivia 7 years ago, I did the Huayna Potosi (6088m) but I spent more time in height and it did not affect me much. We went down quite a bit and suddenly found myself much better. We stopped at a woman's house that was living in a tent in the middle of the mountain with her daughter and a dog. We took a tea and a chapati with the spanish ham that my parents sent me and this completely recovered me.<br />
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Soon, we finish the trekking and we are going back to civilization going through a part of the Annapurna circuit. It is weird to see cars, hear honking and not be surrounded by mountains all the time.Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-41033303965478315382018-05-28T08:05:00.000-07:002018-05-28T08:05:05.501-07:00Australia submarina<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />He decidit tornar a Australia per embarcar-me a una gran aventura i mai millor dit, m'ha sortit un voluntariat durant dues setmanes per anar a una expedició de buceig a la gran barrera de corall. Hauré de fer de pinxe de cuina i ajudar amb les tasques del vaixell, a canvi em donen dos bussejos al dia. La gent paga més de 3000 euros per estar al vaixell una setmana i jo no hauré de pagar res. Em demanaven tenir el visat working holidays, bon nivell d'anglès i un mínim de 10 immersions durant l'ultim any, així que tenia tots els requisits. Vaig trobar vols barats per venir desde Vietnam així que no m'ho vaig pensar dos cops i vaig acceptar. <br /><br />Vaig buscar una combinació que em permetés fer parada de 3 dies a Brisbane per visitar a la Bet i als amics d'allà. Com que el vol passava per Singapore, que no hi he estat mai, i era més barat si feia una escala de tot el dia, vaig fer això. Singapore és un país molt singular, és extremadament net, avançat tecnològicament i ordenat, i hi conviuen gent provinent de diferents parts d'Àsia en harmonia comunicant-se en anglès; Xina, India, Korea, Malasia, Japó, Filipines, etc. Vaig cometre alguns delictes sense adonar-me'n, vaig creuar el semàfor en vermell (es que venia de Vietnam) i vaig menjar xiclet pel carrer dues vegades (està prohibit menjar xiclet i no en venen enlloc). La ciutat és molt espectacular, vaig estar visitant els jardins de l'abadia, chinatown i el centre. <br /><br />Just el dia abans vaig veure dos ex-companys de marqueting d'HP pujant una foto de Singapore, els vaig escriure i just estàven allà per una fira. Així que pel vespre vam quedar al seu hotel i vam anar a sopar junts. Em va fer un munt d'il·lusió veure'ls, de fet ens vam conéixer al meu primer viatge amb HP, que va ser a las Vegas, i a partir de llavors vam treballar molt més junts. Ben acabat el sopar vaig anar amb metro, que no té conductor, cap a l'aeroport a agafar la connexió cap a Austràlia.<br />
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<br />La Bet, la meva amiga de Barcelona que em va acollir durant l'estada a Brisbane, està embarassada de més de 7 mesos i em feia molta il·lusió fer-li una última visita abans que parís per donar-li ànims! Quan em va obrir la porta vaig flipar amb la panxa, quan vaig marxar feia una mica de panxeta però res en comparació amb ara. La que era la meva habitació ja està invaïda per les coses de la futura Martina. Vam fer un bon dinar i més tard vam quedar per fer una cervesa amb el Clint (el marit de la Bet) i amb una amiga mexicana de la Bet, la Diana, que jo també coneixia. La Diana em va dir que li agradaria fer-me una entrevista pel seu programa de ràdio sobre el meu viatge i la meva opinió sobre la identitat llatina. Dit i fet, l'endemà estava a l'estudi de ràdio gravant, va ser una experiència molt xula. <br /><br />Vaig aprofitar per quedar amb uns amics, vam sopar amb la familia del Clint, que em feia molta il·lusió veure'ls perquè són tots super macos i a la nit vaig anar a fer cerveses amb els companys de feina del restaurant on vaig treballar. Es van ficar a xisclar quan em van veure, va ser molt xulo i vam passar-ho super bé. L'endemà vam fer una petita excursió a la selva a prop de Brisbane per passar el dia i em van portar a l'aeroport per volar cap a Cairns.<br />
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<br />Unes hores més tard començava l'aventura, embarquem al vaixell i a les 6 de la tarda sortim a alta mar. Tot comença a moure's molt més del que m'esperava i es que resulta que anàvem a Osprey reef dins del coral sea, és una zona que encara està més enllà que la gran barrera de corall on depenent del vent no hi poden anar. Conec a tota la tripulació i m'expliquen com va tot, semblen tots molt macos, només hi havien 9 clients així que no seriem masses. És hora d'anar a dormir, varies portes, escales, escotilles i arribo al camarot que compartim l'altre voluntari i jo. El vaixell es mou tant que em fa moure de banda a banda al llit, però m'aconsegueixo adormir. L'endemà m'aixeco abans de les 6, ben pàlid i una mica marejat, però no hi ha temps a perdre perquè he d'ajudar a fer l'esmorzar. Vaig pensar més d'un cop que hauria de sortir corrents a vomitar però anava a fora a prendre una mica l'aire i se'm passava, al cap de poques hores em van dir que ja podia anar a bussejar i al tirar-me a l'aigua ja se'm va passar tot. Per sort, ja m'he tornat immune i ja no em marejo. <br /><br />Les immersions són increïbles, el corall impressionant i bancs amb mil peixos de colors. La tripulació és tant maca que entren tots a la cuina després de cada àpat a fregar tots els plats i com que són un munt, no tarden res, sino em tocaria fer-ho a mi i tardaria molt. S'organitzen perquè busseji al màxim, normalment 3 i a vegades 4 vegades al dia. <br /><br />He estat envoltat per més de 30 taurons, però taurons amistosos, passen de tu però fan molta impressió. Un dia vam anar a bussejar a Gotham city, és diu així perquè hi han molts peixos ratpenat, i durant el dia era molt tranquil però per la nit es converteix en una carnisseria; els depredadors surten a caçar, et passen per la vora taurons i trevallys, i els veus com s'alimenten, de fet has de vigilar de no apuntar amb la llanterna als peixos petits perquè els depredadors aprofitaran la llum i es menjaran el que iluminis, va ser el busseig nocturn més espectacular que he fet mai. <br /><br />Lo bo d'estar en aquest vaixell és que a tothom li encanta bussejar, des del xef, a la hostessa, al mecànic, i he après un munt, no nomès de navegació sino de vida marina. Una de les coses que em flipa més del mar és la simbiosi, és el vincle que creen dues espècies per tal de viure conjuntament i aportar l'un a l'altre. El típic exemple és el peix pallasso com el Nemo (peix anemona), viuen a les anemones perquè son urticàries per moltes espècies però no per ells, així és protegeixen, i l'anemona reb protecció, neteja i nutriends. Un que em va semblar super curiós és el goby, un peix que sempre que en veus un el veuràs a la vora d'un forat a la sorra i si t'esperes una mica veuràs una gamba cega sortir del forat. Normalment la gamba cega toca amb una antena al goby i si hi ha perill aquest aleteja per alertar a la gamba, llavors els dos s'amaguen al forat que ha cavat la gamba, ho trobo alucinant. <br /><br />A vegades els peixos també són curiosos com nosaltres, un dia que jo bussejava tant tranquil miro sota meu i veig un peix gegant (més d'un metre) que es diu "potato cod", al principi em feia gràcia que em seguís però quan es va acostar molt jo vaig començar a canviar la trajectòria i no em parava de seguir fins que em vaig poder desfer d'ell, tothom va flipar. Un altre dia una tortuga també es va posar a nedar a la meva vora una bona estona. En una altra ocasió un peix remora, que normalment s'enganxen a sota els taurons o tortugues per protecció, em va confondre per un peix i la tenia a sota meu tota l'estona. També vam veure vàries serps de mar, són molt espectaculars com naden, i tot i que són molt verinoses no ataquen als bussejadors, tot i que també són curioses i et poden seguir una estona. <br /><br />I després vaig veure als reis del camuflatge, el peix pedra, que no només es queda quiet com una pedra sino que emula que té alga a sobre i a vegades m'assenyalaven on era i tardava una bona estona a veure'l. El peix escorpí és com una fulla i s'enganxa a algun tros de corall i va oscil·lant com si fos una fulla. I per últim, vam veure varios calamars, ja és flipant de la forma que neda, sembla que tingui faldilles i leviti, però et quedes sense paraules quan canvien de color per camuflar-se, els pots estar veient, canvien de color i desapareixen.<br />
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<br />Van ser dues setmanes a alta mar molt intenses amb només 4 hores a terra entre elles, on se'm movia tot d'esquerra a dret com si estés al vaixell, però ha estat una experiència irrepetible. <br /><br />Al tornar a Cairns vaig decidir llogar un cotxe i fer un roadtrip per la zona durant 4 dies, vaig conéixer una noia canadenca, la Laurie, i vam anar junts. Tota la zona del daintree forest fins a Cape Tribulation, les cascades i els llacs als cràters em va encantar. I vam veure cassuaris, platipus i wallabys (cangurs petits) en llibertat, que van millorar-ho encara més.<br />
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<br />La meva última parada serà Nepal i els vols més barats sortien desde Melbourne, així que decideixo passar-hi 4 dies. Allà un noi local, el Matt, m'allotja a travès de couchsurfing. El Matt és super maco, parla molt bé espanyol així que l'ajudo a practicar i s'ho curra moltíssim durant la meva estada a Melbourne. Va arreglar una bici perquè pugui fer ruta per la platja fins a Brighton, de camí vaig veure un lloc on es podien veure pingüins en llibertat, d'anada en vaig veure 4 entre les roques però em van dir que si tornava a la posta de sol potser veuria els que tornàven de pescar i així ho vaig fer, n'hi havien un munt, és alucinant. L'endemà vam anar a jugar a tenis perquè a mi m'encanta i el Matt domina molt, llavors vam quedar amb els seus amics per dinar al pub i després em va convidar a l'estadi a veure un partit de futbol australià (és una espècie de rugby) perquè jugava el seu equip, el Geelong cats.<br />
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<br />Avui és el meu últim dia a Austràlia i entre anades i vingudes hi he viscut 5 mesos, ara mateix passen per la meva ment tants bons moments que hi he viscut que em costa de creure el que hi he viscut. Ha estat una part molt important d'aquest viatge, una manera diferent de viatjar i de conéixer un país, que m'ha deixat emprempta. I just avui m'emporto el millor regal de despedida que podia tenir, la Martina (la filla de la Bet i el Clint) ha nascut amb dues setmanes d'antelació, així que ja puc marxar d'Austràlia.<br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />I've decided to come back to Australia to board on a new big adventure, I've got a volunteering for two weeks in a diving expedition in the great barrier reef. I will have to help the chef and help in the tasks of the ship, in return of two dives a day. People usually pays more than 3000 euros to be on the boat for a week and I won't have to pay anything. I must have the working holidays visa, good english level and a minimum of 10 dives on the last year, so I had all the requirements. I found cheap flights to come from Vietnam so I didn't think it twice and I accepted. <br /><br />I looked for a combination that allowed me to do stopover for 3 days in Brisbane to visit Bet and my friends from there. The flight was passing by Singapore, that I've never been, and it was cheaper if I was doing a stopover for the whole day, so I did that. Singapore is such a singular country, extremely clean, tecnologically advanced and tidy, where people from several parts of Asia live in harmony speaking english; China, India, Korea, Malasya, Japan, Philippines, etc. I did some illegal things while I was there without realizing it, I crossed with a red traffic light (I was coming from Vietnam) and I ate chewing gum twice (It's illegal to eat chewing gum and they don't sell it anywhere). The city is really spectacular, I was visiting the bay gardens, chinatown and the center. <br /><br />The day before, I saw a couple of ex-colleagues from marketing HP posting a photo of Singapore, I wrote them and they were there for a tradeshow. In the evening, we met at their hotel and we went for dinner together. I was so excited to see them, actually we met on my first trip with HP, to Vegas, and from then we worked much more together. After dinner I went by metro, which doesn't have a driver, to the airport to take the connection to Australia. <br /><br />Bet, my friend from Barcelona who lives in Brisbane, is pregnant for more than 7 months and I was excited to visit her before the birth! When she opened the door I was amazed with the belly, when I left she had a bit of belly but you can't compare. The room that used to be mine was invaded by the future Martina's stuff. We ate a good lunch and later on we met for a beer with Clint (Bet's husband) and a mexican friend of Bet, Diana, that I also knew. Diana told me that she'd like to interview me for her radio program about my trip and my opinion about the latin identity. On the following day I was in the radio studio recording the interview, it was such a nice experience. <br /><br />I met some friends, had dinner with Clint's family, who I was willing to see because they are super nice, and at night I went for beers with my ex-colleagues of the restaurant I worked. They screamed when they saw me, it was such a nice moment and we enjoyed a lot. On the following day we did a small excursion in a rainforest close to Brisbane and then they took me to the airport to go to Cairns. <br /><br />Some hours later the adventure was starting, we board the boat and at 6pm we leave. Everything starts to move more than I was expecting and the reason is that we were going to Osprey reef in the coral sea, further than great barrier reef, where depending on the wind they can't go. I met all the crew and they explain me how everything works, they seem really nice people, there were only 9 customers so we wouldn't be many people. It's time to go to bed, some doors, stairs, hatches and I reach the room that I share with the other volunteer. The boat is moving that much that I move from side to side of the bed, but I finally fall asleep. On the next day, I wake before 6, quite pale and a bit dizzy, but there's no time to lose because I need to help preparing the breakfast. I thought more than once that I should run out to vomit but I was going from time to time to take some fresh air and I was getting better. Some hours later, they told me I could go diving and when I jumped in the water I felt much better. Luckily, I don't get dizzy anymore. <br /><br />The dives are amazing, incredible coral and schools of thousands of colorful fishes. The crew is so nice that they all enter to the kitchen after every meal to wash all the plates and due to they are so many it's so fast, otherwise I should do it and it would take a long time. They organize themselves in order that I dive as much as I can, 3 and even 4 times a day. <br /><br />I've been surounded by more than 30 sharks, but the friendly ones, they ignore you but they are really impressive. One day we dived in Gotham city, it's called like that because there are many bat fish. During the day it's quite quiet but at night it turns into a buchery; the predators go fishing, sharks and trevallys swim next to you, and you see them feeding. In fact, you have to take care not to light the small fishes because the predators will take advantage of the light and will eat them. It was the most amazing night dive I've ever done. <br /><br />Another good thing of being in a boat like that is that everybody loves diving, from the cheff, to the host, engineer, and I've learned a lot, not only how to orientate in the water, also from marine life. One of the things that amazes me the most in the sea is the symbiosi, it's the link that create two species to life together and provide things to each other. The typical example is the clown fish, like Nemo (anemone fish), they live in the anemone because they sting to many species but not to them, so they get protection. On the other side, anemone get protection, cleaning and nutriends from the leftovers. Another case that is so curious is the goby, a fish that it will always be next to a hole and if you wait for a while you'll see a blind prawn coming out. Normally, the blind prawn touches with an antena to the goby and if there's any danger, the goby will move to warn the prawn and both will hide in the hole that the prawn has dig, it's amazing. <br /><br />Sometimes, the fishes are curious like us, one day that I was diving quietly, I looked below me and I saw a giant fish (more than a meter) called potato cod. At the beginning it was funny but when he got closer I started changing my way and it didn't stop following me until I could escape, everybody was amazed of the situation. Another day, a turtle swam next to me for a while. In another ocasion, a remora, that normally get stuck below the sharks or turtles, thought I was a fish and it was below me all the time. We also saw some sea snakes, it's amazing how they swim, although they are poisonous they don't attack divers, but they are also curious and they can follow you for a while. <br /><br />I saw the kings of the camouflage, the stone fish, that not only reamains quiet like a stone for a long time, it emulates that it has algue on top, so sometimes they were pointing where it was and it was taking a long time for me to see it. The leaf scorpion fish, that is like a leaf and gets stuck to a piece of coral, oscillating like a leaf. At last, I saw several kattle fish, it's already amazing how they swim, it seems they have skirts, but you lose the speech when they change the color to camouflate, you can see them, they change the color and disappear. <br /><br />When I came back to Cairns I decided renting a car and do a roadtrip on the area during 4 days. I met a canadian girl, Laurie, and we went together. I liked a lot all the area of daintree rainforest to Cape Tribulation, the waterfalls and the lakes on a crater. And we saw wild casowaries, platypus and wallabys which improved it even more. <br /><br />My last stop will be Nepal and the cheapest flights were from Melbourne, so I decided spending there 4 days. A local guy, Matt, is hosting me through couchsurfing. He is super nice, speaks spanish so I help him to practise and he makes that my stay in Melbourne is amazing. He fixed a bike in order that I can cycle next to the beach to Brighton. On the way I saw a place were you could see wild penguins, so I went there and I saw 4 between the rocks, but they told me that if I was coming back for the sun set I might see more because they come back from fishing. That's what I did and I saw so many, it was incredible. On the following day we went to play tennis because I love it and Matt is so good at it, then we met some of his friends to have lunch in a pub and he invited me to the stadium to see an australian football match because his team was playing, Geelong.<br /><br />Today is my last day in Australia and I've been here for 5 months in total. Now I have so many nice moments that I've lived here going through my mind that it's hard to believe all what I've experienced here. It has been a really important part of my trip, a different way of travelling and knowing a country, that it has left a fingerprint on me. Just today I've got the best farewell present that I could have, Marina (Clint's and Bet's daughter) has born two weeks in advance, so I'm ready to leave Australia.<br />Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-30625580309366591232018-05-16T01:41:00.002-07:002018-05-16T01:41:19.338-07:00Vietnam 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Em dirigeixo al parc nacional de Cuc Phuong a fer un voluntariat durant una setmana a un centre de rescat de fauna vietnamita. Majoritàriament hi han pangolins, és com un armadillo, i és el mamífer que més trafiquen del món ja que a Xina utilitzen les seves escames com la viagra, que en realitat és fals. També hi han gats lleopards, binturongs i civets. <br /><br />Aquests animals són nocturns així que vaig anar en vàries ocasions a alimentar-los de nit. Un dels dies el cuidador em va fer entrar a mi a on hi havien els gats lleopards i de cop van aparéixer els tres, fent-me rugits i allà em vaig cagar. Vaig començar a deixar el menjar a varis llocs i van passar de mi totalment. Un dia vaig anar amb el veterinari tot el dia per revisar els pangolins i n'hi han varis que els hi han hagut d'amputar la cua, es creu que per varis motius (estrès, males condicions, menjar) la infecció els hi ha anat a la cua i els hi han d'amputar. La veritat és que amb els recursos que tenen fan molt bona feina per intentar que aquesta espècie no desaparegui, així com per reintroduir-los al seu hàbitat natural.<br />
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<br />Camino pel carrer i veig pastisseries amb croissants, cafeteries amb expresso, edificis amb un toc francès, un llac amb barquetes molt cutres en forma de cigne i arbustos tallats en forma de cotxe o piolin. Estic a Dalat, hortera és l'adjectiu que més defineix aquesta ciutat, havia sigut el lloc de vacances preferit pels francesos durant l'ocupació. Em diuen, tu, sent de Barcelona has d'anar a la "crazy house" i llegeixo, és com si el Gaudí i el Tolkien s'haguessin fotut àcid junts per dissenyar aquesta casa, i la veritat és que la definició la clava bastant. És una casa subrealista d'una arquitecta vietnamita que volia donar l'experiència de ser a la selva dins la ciutat perquè molts espais naturals havien desaparegut per la deforestació i els bombardejos. Et pots passejar per unes escales en forma de drac que passen per sobre un teulat molt empinat que conté habitacions d'hotel amb finestres amb formes geomètriques que són de tot menys rectangulars. De cop apareixes a una zona que simula una cova on les estalactites estàn plenes de purpurina i acabes entrant per una cloïssa gegant per apareixer a unes sales que simulen el fons marí. Em va encantar! <br /><br />El dia següent vaig fer barranquisme i va ser una passada, rappel per vàries cascades, l'última de 65m, un tobogàn i un salt a una gorja. Al acabar ens van dir que ens haviem de donar-nos pressa per tornar perquè semblava que havia de ploure i van acertar, quan estàvem tornant amb el jeep per una carreterutxa sense asfaltar amb uns sots de déu, es va posar a ploure a bots i barrals. El conductor era un mestre, li derrapava el jeep de banda a banda i ell com si res, fins al punt que estàvem a una pujada i no conseguia continuar perquè li patinàven les rodes. Vam baixar tots a empènyer i vam aconseguir sortir-nos-en del primer obstacle, el segon era més difícil i quan vam aconseguir superar-lo, van parar el motor del cotxe i no el podien tornar a engegar. Per sort estàvem a 15min caminant de la furgoneta i vam arribar-hi ràpid, això si, plens de fang i xops. Aquí vaig conéixer una parella de catalans molt macos, a la nit vam anar a sopar junts i amb gent que havia conegut al meu hostal. Després del sopar, en Bernat va dir, m'han dit d'un lloc que és com la crazy house però en bar, i allà que vam anar. Tal qual, escales per tot arreu, forats que et porten a una altra sala, petits racons, coves, personatges... Va ser molt divertit!<br />
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<br />Els catalans em van recomanar un allotjament que acaben d'obrir al parc nacional de Cat Tien així que vaig anar cap allà amb bus local. El propietari, el Quoq, és super maco i ens convida a una barbacoa la nit que arribo! Allà conec a una alemanya, la Linda, i a un danès, el Daniel. Amb la Linda anem al parc nacional el dia següent i fem una ruta amb bici i caminant fins el llac dels cocodrils. Pel camí ens trobem a un guia que ens diu que aquest matí no han vist cap primat però van veure dos cocodrils petits. Nosaltres de cocodrils no en vam veure, diuen que fa poc que els han reintroduït, però pel camí vam veure una família de gibbons, són uns primats que pel matí fan uns crits que sembla una alarma d'incendis, i dos grups de macacs, a més de milpeus, insectes varis i un concentració impressionant de papallones que no havia vist mai.<br />
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<br />Arribo a Saigon (Ho Chi Minh), el president Ho Chi Minh va canviar el nom a aquesta mega urbe després de la victòria del comunisme i la retirada de les tropes americanes. I és que hi ha molta història a aquesta ciutat, per això vam amb moto amb el Daniel als túnels de Cu Chi, un circuit de 250km de túnels diminuts que utilitzaven els vietnamites per lluitar contra els americans, els túnels són tant petits que t'has de arrastrar. I per entendre una mica més que va suposar la guerra del Vietnam, vam anar al museu de la guerra. Encara se'm posa la pell de gallina al pensar el que vaig veure al museu i el que va passar. La guerra va durar més de 17 anys, van morir més de 4 millons de persones i és va bombardejar gairebè 4 vegades més que a la segona guerra mundial. L'atac dels EEUU va durar 10 anys i va ser molt, molt, molt dur, no només van injectar diners a Vietnam del sud perquè el comunisme no guanyi, van bombardejar gairebé tot el país i van utilitzar químics que van deixar unes deformacions terribles a la població a més de greus problemes per cultivar la terra. La gran majoria de països van mostrar suport per aturar aquesta barbàrie i inclús hi van haver vàries auto-immolacions en senyal de protesta. Després d'això se'm va treure la gana totalment, i mira que no havia dinat, i vaig haver de fer un llarg passeig per digerir. <br /><br />Tinc la sensació que he estat a punt de tenir un accident moltes vegades durant aquests últims 2 dies. I es que Saigon és coneguda per tenir un tràfic horrible, milers de motos creuren constantment, has de creuar el carrer confiant en que t'esquivaràn i santiguar-te encara que no siguis religiós. Al arribar a Saigon, vaig demanar una moto per grab, és una aplicació que pots demanar un taxi o una moto, a Àsia és molt popular. Em va portar un noi universitari que conduia a la manera local, com un boig entre el caos, adelantant, en contra direcció i, fins i tot, per carrers diminuts.<br />
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<br />He de reconeixer que el Vietnam em feia una mica de por perquè sabia que és super turístic i això pot fer que un país canvïi la seva essència, però m'ha sorprès molt gratament, està clar que estàn més que acostumats al turisme però l'essència està a tot arreu, sobretot al carrer, on pots trobar gent menjant als puestos de cada cantonada, prenent un cafè vietnamita, jugant a jocs de taula, ballant a primeríssima hora del matí i fabricant tot tipus de productes. Combinant tot això amb els impressionants paisatges i la història el fan un país super interessant. <br /><br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />I'm going to Cuc Phuong National Park to do a volunteering for a week in an animal rescue center of vietnamese wildlife. There are mostly pangolins, it's like an armadillo, and it's the most trafiked mammal in the world due to the fact that in China they use their scales as viagra, which in reality is fake. There are also leopard cats, binturongs and civets. <br /><br />These animals are nocturnals, so I've been feeding them at night during several occasions. One of the keepers told me to enter where the leopard cats were and suddenly three of them appeared, opening their mouth and showing their teeth, at that moment I shitted on my pants. I started placing some food in different locations of the enclosure and then they totally ignored me and went for the food. One of the days, I went with the vet all day to check the pangolins and there are some of them that they've had to amputate their tail. They believe that for different reasons (stress, bad conditions, food) the infection moved towards the tail. The truth is that with the resources they have, they do a really good job to try that this specie doesn't disappear and they can reintroduce it to their natural environment. <br /><br />I walk in the street and I see bakeries with croissants, cafes with expresso, buildings with french style, a lake with really odd boats with the shape of a swan and bushes cut as a car or piolin. I'm in Dalat, it used to be the favourite holidays place for the french during the ocuppation. People told me, being from Barcelona, have to go to the "crazy house". The guide says, it's like if Gaudi and Tolkien had taken acid together to design this house, and I think the definition is quite precise. It's a surealist house a vietnamese architect that wanted to provide the experience of being in the jungle while being in the city, because many of the natural spaces disappeared due to the deforestation and the bombings. You can go through some stairs with the shape of a dragon that pass over a really steep roof containing hotel rooms with windows with geometric shapes that are other things rather than rectangular. Suddenly you appear in a place that seems a cave with glitter stalactites and you finish entering through a giant clam to appear in some rooms simulating the underwater world. I loved it! <br /><br />On the following day I did canyoning and it was amazing, rappel on several waterfalls, the last one 65m, a small water slide and a jump into a gorge. When we finished, they told us we should hurry because it seemed it was gonna rain and they were right. When we were coming back with the 4 wheel drive in an unsealed bumpy road, it started raining cats and dogs. The driver was a master, the jeep was slipping from side to side and he didn't care, until in the middle of a way up he couldn't continue because the wheels were slipping all the time. We went all down the jeep, started pushing and we succeeded. They stopped the motor and then they couldn't turn it on again. Luckily, we were only 15min walking from the van and we could arrive there quickly, although we were full of mud and wet. I met there a really nice couple of catalans, la Mireia i el Bernat, and we went for dinner together with a dutch and a chinese girl that I met in the hostel. After dinner, Bernat said "I know a place like the crazy house but in a bar" and there we went. It was exactly like this, stairs everywhere, holes that take you to another room, small cosy places, caves, weird people... It was so funny! <br /><br />The catalans recommended me an accomodation that has been recently opened in Cat Tien national park, so I went there with a local bus. The owner, Quoq, is so nice and invited us to a bbq on the night I arrived! There, I met a german girl, Linda, and a danish guy, Daniel. I went with Linda to the national park the day after and we did a path by bike and on foot to the cocodrile lake. On the way, we met a guide that told us he didn't see any primate that morning but he saw two small cocodriles. We didn't see cocodriles, they've reintroduced them short ago in the lake, but we saw a family of gibbons, they are primates that on the morning the make a really loud sound that seems a fire alarm. We also saw two groups of macacs, thousand feet, several cool insects and an amazing big group of butterflies, I've never seen something like that. <br /><br />I arrive in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh), the president Ho Chi Minh changed the name to this massive city after the victory of the comunism and the americans left. There's so much history in this city, that's why I went by motorbike with Daniel to the Cu Chi tunnels, a 250km circuit of tiny tunnels that the vietnamese were using to fight agains the americans. To understand a bit more what meant the Vietnam war, we went to the war museum. The war lasted more than 17 years, more than 4 million people died and they were bombed 4 times more than the bombings on the whole world in the second world war. The US atack lasted 10 years and it was so, so hard, not only they injected money to south Vietnam to avoid the comunist victory, they bombed almost all the country and they used quemicals that left terrible deformations in the population besides hard problems to cultivate the ground. Most of the countries showed support to stop this cruelty and even there were some self-immolations as a sign of protest. After that, I was not hungry anymore although I didn't had lunch, and I had to do a long walk to digest all that. <br /><br />I have the feeling that I've nearly had an accident many times during these two last days. Saigon is well known for having a terrible traffic, hundreds of motorbikes crossing constantly, you must cross the street trusting that they will avoid you, although in India it was a bit worse. When I arrived in Saigon, I asked for a motorbike ride on grab, it's an application that you can request a taxi or a motorbike, in Asia is so popular. A uni guy that was driving on the local way took me, like a mad person in between the chaos, overtaking, on opposite direction and even in tiny streets. <br /><br />I must admit that I was a bit scared about Vietnam because I knew that it's super touristic and this can cause a change in the essence of a country, but I've been positively surprised. It's true that they are more than used to the tourism but the essence is still alive everywhere, even in the street, where you can find people eating in every corner, taking a vietnamese coffee, playing board games, dancing at the first hour in the morning and building all kind of products. Combining all that with amazing landscapes and the history makes Vietnam a really cool country. Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-64808110915345482212018-04-25T16:41:00.006-07:002018-04-25T16:41:58.030-07:00Vietnam<br />
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<br />[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Aterro a Hanoi, arribo a l'hotel, vaig cap a l'habitació i allà estan la meva germana Maria i el meu cunyat Jordi! Ens fem moltíssimes abraçades!! Encara em costa de creure que tornem a estar junts, l'última vegada que ens vam veure va ser el Juliol passat a Buenos Aires quan marxaven en un taxi cap a l'aeroport i ara estem a Vietnam. Portem 5 min i ja sembla que ens haguèssim vist ahir!<br />
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<br />El dia següent esmorzant trec un dels formatges que m'han portat i dos minuts més tard s'acosta una noia francesa i ens pregunta on haviem comprat aquest formatge. Ella porta 6 mesos viatjant i sé perfectament el que se sent, així que compartim el formatge i es queda amb una cara de gust només comparable amb la meva! <br /><br />Comencem a voltar per Hanoi i el primer que em resulta extrany es que no veig pagodes, ni budes, ni monjos per tot arreu com a Birmania o esglésies com a Filipines. I llavors llegim que el 80% de la població és atea, suposo que seran remanents del comunisme com a Cuba. I parlant de comunisme tampoc el veig per enlloc, més aviat tot el contrari, consumisme, fàbriques, construccions, anuncis publicitaris, etc. Els únics indicis comunistes que he percebut son les banderes per tot arreu, la falç i el martell, i altaveus de bon matí amb propaganda política perquè tothom se n'assabenti. Al seu dia, el país estava dividit, el nord era comunista (Viet Cong) i el sud capitalista. Fins al punt que hi va haver una guerra brutal durant gairebé 20 anys i els 10 últims anys el sud va ser extremadament recolzat per EEUU, qui també va bombardejar molt durament població civil, temples, ciutats, etc. Es que Vietnam té pinta d'haver-ho passat molt malament, 1000 anys d'ocupació xinesa, guerra interna i amb EEUU, ocupació francesa, guerra contra Cambodja... <br /><br />Anem cap a Sapa en tren nocturn i el paisatge canvia totalment, turons, boira, terrasses d'arròs brutals per tot arreu... Allà quedem amb el Duc, un vietnamita que va conéixer la meva tieta quan va estar a Vietnam, perquè ens faci de guia per la zona. Fem caminata pel nostre compte el primer dia i l'endema quedem amb el Duc per explorar amb motos la zona, ell ens aconsella anar amb motos per poder anar a zones poc turístiques i més allunyades i on hi havien diferents ètnies. Doncs allà estàvem, jo carregant al Jordi i el Duc carregant a la Maria, serpentejant entre terrasses d'arròs increïbles, parant a poblets i escoles. Parem a un dels pobles hi havia una ètnia que tenen la meitat del cap rapat i l'altra meitat cobert per un gorro de colors vius. Parem a un mirador i mengem menjar de carrer boníssim; arròs enganxós a la canya de bambu, porc assecat a la brasa, ou a la brasa, etc.<br />
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<br />Estem a Hoi An, meca dels fanalets vietnamesos i del bon menjar, així que per fer-nos un homenatge el Jordi ens convida a un restaurant estrella michelin, estava boníssim, per compensar vam dinar l'endemà al mercat que també vam menjar super bé. Si una cosa hi havia a Hoi An eren turistes, centenars de turistes al centre, era realment impactant en comparació amb Birmània on a la majoria de llocs no hi han gaires turistes i els locals et saluden constantment. Aquí la gent hi està molt més acostumada però són molt simpàtics de totes maneres. Vam agafar motos per anar a My Son, el que queda d'una zona de temples després dels bombardejos dels EEUU, les ruines són molt maques i la ruta entre camps d'arròs encara més. <br />
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<br />Imagina't la típica imatge de Vietnam amb les formacions de roca calcària al mar, Halong Bay, doncs ara elimina el mar, posa-hi camps d'arròs un un riu, això és Nimh Binh. Vam fer excursions al riu on et porten uns vietnamites amb una tècnica increïble de remar amb els peus, així com sents, es posen ben còmodes reclinats, es treuen les sabates i mouen els rems amb els moviments de peus.<br />
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Després vam anar a Cat Ba on vam fer l'excursió amb barco per Lang Ha i Halong bay. Aquí vam veure dos restaurants exactament iguals, a 20 metres l'un de l'altre i l'única diferència és que el nom d'un s'escriu amb b i l'altre amb v. Els viatnamites són els mestres de la còpia, fins a tal punt que si un lloc triomfa i aconsegueix moltes recomanacions, n'apareix un altre ben aprop amb gairebé el mateix nom i el mateix estil, el mateix amb webs falses o gent que es fa passar per una companyia i no ho són, per no dir amb la roba o electrònica. </div>
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No em puc creure que ja sigui l'hora que marxin, ha passat en un obrir i tancar d'ulls. Els acompanyo a buscar l'autobús ens despedim amb una abraçada gegant. Estic sorprès perquè l'última vegada quan els vaig veure marxar a Buenos Aires em va entrar molta tristesa i una mica de baixón, suposo perquè dins meu sabia que no els veuria durant molt temps, però aquesta vegada no tant i crec que és perquè sé que tornaré aviat.<br />
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<br />Feia dies que m'havia de tallar els cabells i la barba però no hem parat amb la Maria i el Jordi així que no ho he fet. Preguntem a la noia que ens va vendre el bus, que era un encant, i em diu que quan marxi la meva familia m'ensenyarà on és la perruqueria. Em va donar un casc, i em va portar a una perruqueria allunyada de la zona turística. M'estava fent un pentinat molt vietnamita i amb signes i google translate ho anavem arreglant, això si em vaig emportar un parell de trasquilons darrere la orella que no vam poguer arreglar. Tota l'experiència per menys de dos euros!<br />
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<br />[ENGLISH]<br /><br />I land in Hanoi, I reach the hotel, I go to the bedroom and my sister Maria and my brother in law Jordi were there! We've hugged each other a lot!! It's still hard for me to believe that we are together again. The last time we saw each other was last July in Buenos Aires when they were leaving to the airport by taxi and now we are in Vietnam. We've been 5 minutes together and it seems we saw each other yesterday. <br /><br />The following day, while having breakfast, I take out one of the cheeses that they brought to me and 2 minutes later, one french girl come closer and asks where we've bought this cheese. She has been 6 months travelling and I know perfectly how she feels, so we share the cheese and she remains with such a pleasure face only comparable to mine!<br /><br />We start walking around Hanoi and the first thing that surprises me is that I don't see pagodas, budhas, monks everywhere like in Myanmar or churches like in Philippines. And then we read that the 80% of the population is atheist, I guess this will be something that the comunism left like in Cuba. And talking about comunism, I also don't see it anywhere. The other way around, consumism, factories, constructions, advertising, etc. The only comunist hints I've perceived are the flags everywhere, the sickle, the hammer, and the speakers early morning with political propaganda in order that everybody is aware. Some time ago, the country was divided, the north was comunist (Viet Cong) and the south capitalist. It reached the moment that there was a brutal war during almost 20 years and the last 10, the south was supported a lot by the USA, who also bombed hardly the civil population, temples, cities, etc. Vietnam looks like it had a really hard time, 1000 years of chinese ocuppation, internal war and against the US, french ocuppation, war against Cambodia...<br /><br />We are going to Sapa by the night train and the landscape changes completely, hills, fog, amazing rice terraces everywhere... There we meet Duc, a vietnamese guy that my aunt met when she was in Vietnam, for being out guide in the area. We trek on our own the first day and the following day we meet Duc to explore the area by motorbike to go to less turistic areas where different ethnics live. There we were, I was carrying Jordi and Duc was carrying Maria, sneaking between rice terraces, stopping in villages and schools. We stop in one of the villages where an ethnic lives that have half of the head razored and the other half covered by a colorful hat. We stop in a viewpoint and we eat delicious street food; sticky rice in a bamboo cane, roasted dried pork, roasted egg, etc. <br /><br />We are in Hoi An, mecca of the vietnamese lights and the good food. In order to do a self-homage, Jordi invited us to a michelin star restaurant, it was delicious! To compensate, the following day we ate in the market which was also so good. If there's something in Hoi An is tourists, hundreds of tourists in the center, it was impacting comparing with Myanmar where on the majority of places there are a few tourists and the locals wave you all the time. Here, the people is much more used but they are nice anyway. We took motorbikes to go to My Son, the leftovers of a temples area after the bombings from the USA, anyway the ruins are really beautiful and the way between rice fields even more. <br /><br />Imagine the typical image of Vietnam with limestone formations in the sea, Halong Bay, well, now delete the sea, add some rice fields and a river, this is Nimh Binh. We did an excursion on a river where the vietnamese paddle the boats with the feet, an increadible technique.<br /><br />Afterwards, we went to Cat Ba where we did a excursion by boat in Lang Ha and Halong bay. In this place, we saw two restaurants looking exactly the same, 20 meters away from each other and the only difference is the name of one of them is with b and the other one v. The vietnamese are masters copying things, if there's a place that is successful and get good reviews, another one close by with the same name and style appears, the same with fake websites or people saying they belong to a company that they don't belong to, or clothes or electronics. <br /><br />I can't believe it's time for them to leave, it has lasted an eye blink. I went with them to take the bus and we said goodbye with a huge hug. I'm surprised because the last time I saw them leaving in Buenos Aires I was so sad and a bit down, I guess because I knew inside I wouldn't see them for a long time, but this time I didn't feel it that much, I guess because I know I'll be back soon. <br /><br />I had to cut my hair and beard for a long time, but with Maria and Jordi we didn't stop. We asked the girl that sold us the bus, she was lovely, she told me that when my family leaves she will show me a hairdresser. She gave me a helmet, and took me to a hairdresser far away from the touristic area. I was getting a vietnamese style haircut and through signs and google translate we fixed it. Anyway, I got a couple of mistakes behind the ears that we couldn't fix. All the experience for less than 2 euros! Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-35154410223462704952018-04-07T09:16:00.000-07:002018-04-07T09:16:06.209-07:00Birmania-Myanmar<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Camino entre les plantacions de té, la selva i els boscos de bambú, passo un grup de dones cultivant la terra amb vestits tradicionals i una tècnica que no havia vist mai de fer rotar l'aixada, una familia que fa tauletes de sucre de canya m'en donen a provar, uns nens et saluden de lluny i riuen quan els hi tornes la salutació, un somriure de cada local que em creuo, gossos que s'acosten, búfals, un grup de nens que venen a donar-me la mà, càntics al monestir del poble i una olor nova d'un menjar que no he provat mai. Hi ha moments que tinc la sensació que estic al camino de Santiago pel fet que camino moltes hores al dia, de poble en poble, per una zona rural, fins que de cop una Pagoda, gent local o un camp d'arròs em fa adonar que estic a Birmània. <br />
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Avui hem anat a sopar a un indi amb alguns dels amics que he fet a la caminata de tres dies entre Kalaw i Inle Lake. Després de sopar hem anat a fer unes cerveses a un lloc molt barat i després hem anat a un pub per trobar-nos amb una parella israelí que també vam conéixer a la caminata. Arribem al pub i ens diuen que ja tanquen, no eren ni les 22h i els israelís tampoc hi eren. Surten del pub un grup de locals bastant borratxos, parlem amb ells i ens diuen que venen amb nosaltres al lloc on estàvem abans. Resulta que són dues noies de Inle Lake que tenen un hostal, dos nois que tenen un hostal a Yangon (la capital) i volen obrir un hostal a Inle per això portàven a dos arquitectes tailandesos. Quan arribem al bar on estàvem ens diuen, nosaltres convidem a tot! Comencen a portar un munt de cerveses i menjar, feien un brindis cada dos minuts i eren super divertits. Una de les noies locals que s'havia adormit a la taula va vomitar i al cap d'una estona se la van emportar cap a casa. El lloc havia de tancar a les 23h però van baixar les cortines i vam sortir d'allà gairebé a la 1. Quina nit més subrealista! <br />
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Acabo de tornar d'una altra caminata molt bonica de dos dies pels poblets de Hsipaw així que em disposo anar a conéixer una mica la població. Vaig al Shan palace, una palauet de la familia reial de la ètnia Shan. Falten només 10min perquè tanquin i al arribar veig que la reixa està tancada però veig que encara hi ha algú al voltant de la casa, així que obro la reixa per dins i vaig a fer una ullada. Entro a la casa i hi trobo una parella d'ancians adorables que viuen allà i els seus avis eren els prínceps que havien construit el palau. Parlem una bona estona i el senyor em diu els catalans sou com els Shan, em va fer un munt de preguntes i coneixia perfectament el que està passant a Catalunya. Encara que no crec que sigui comparable, la situació que veig aquí és una mica diferent doncs a Birmània hi han un munt d'ètnies diferents, algunes amb religions diferents, amb uns militars molt durs que han oprimit el pais durant molt temps i varis actes de conflicte violent entre ètnies. El senyor ho comparava pel fet de que els Shan són una part de la població birmana que han estat oprimits pels militars i han de lluitar molt per aconseguir drets. <br />
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Avui estic passant tot el dia al tren de Hsi-Paw a Mandalay i estic encantat. És un tren antic, amb uns ventiladors que no s'engeguen, totes les finestres obertes i un moviment oscil·lant que va gronxant el preciós paisatge. A més de ser la manera més barata de moure't aquí (2.5€ per un viatge de 12 hores) crec que és la millor, potser no la més ràpida però pots disfrutar de les vistes (zones rurals, pobles, nens saludant, joves jugant a una espècie de futvolley), tens molt espai i interactues amb locals. El revisor m'ha ensenyat la seva filla d'un mes quan ha pujat a una de les parades amb la mare, he conegut alguns viatgers, un nen s'anava acostant mirant les fotos que passava a la tablet fins que se m'ha assentat a sobre i ha flipat amb totes les fotos d'animals, després també he estat parlant una estona amb el pare.<br />
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Imagina't una esplanada d'uns 50km2, la religió budista molt predominant i 50 reis que hi han gobernat. Cadascun construia pagodes (monuments, temples, ...) i budes per demostrar el devotisme. Només et queda pintar-hi un sol vermell incandescent durant la sortida del sol i globus aerostàtics cobrint el cel. Això és Bagan, una postal de somni. <br />
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Aquí a Birmània tinc la sensació constant de que em perdo moltes coses, en part perquè és una cultura molt diferent però sobretot perquè la majoria de gent no parla anglès i jo no entenc els idiomes locals. A llatinoamèrica aprenia moltes coses parlant amb gent local, escoltant una conversació al bus o entenent la persona que predicava. Uns amics em van recomanar contactar amb una noia local, la Nui Nui, perquè ens fes de guia a Bagan i va ser espectacular, em va resoldre un munt de dubtes de coses que veia però no entenia perquè. Segons el budisme tot el que facis a aquesta vida repercutirà a la següent vida quan et reencarnis, per tant la gent són molt amables entre ells i amb els turistes. Quan veuen algú amputat no senten pena perquè creuen que va fer alguna cosa dolenta a la seva passada vida, però de totes maneres li faràn donacions per assegurar-se una bona pròxima vida. La donació de flors és per la bellesa, l'electricitat és pel seny, l'aigua per la llarga vida, etc. <br />
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La Nui Nui ens va explicar que ella recorda perfectament la seva passada vida, havia sigut una de les millors amigues de la seva mare que havia mort amb 50 anys poc abans de nèixer ella. Ho recorda fins a tal punt que a l'edat de tres anys li va dir als seus pares que no eren els seus pares i que aquesta no era la seva familia, els pares li van negar en tot moment fins el dia que la seva mare li va dir "si aquesta no és la teva casa, ensenya'm on vius". La petita Nui Nui va portar a la seva mare a casa la seva millor amiga difunta, li van explicar la situació als pares d'aquesta, ells li van posar un bol amb tot de joies i li van dir "agafa les que siguin teves" i ella de seguida va agafar els dos unics anells que pertanyien a la difunta. La Nui Nui va viure dels 3 als 11 anys amb la seva "nova" familia. Una història flipant i encara més quan feia unes hores que havia mort Stephen Hawking, la persona que més ha contribuit a la teoria que no hi ha vida després de la mort.<br />
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Avui he fet un tour a l'illa dels Ogres, el guia és un local de 82 anys que és un encant. Era super interessant anar amb ell perquè coneixia a tot deu i anavem visitant artesans. Un d'ells era una familia que feien pissarres artesanalment amb marcs de fusta. Jo els hi vaig dir que a casa meva també utilitzem les lloses per moltes coses. Al cap d'una estona em ve el senyor amb la familia i em pregunten, "has dit que utilitzeu les lloses per cuinar? I amb el foc no es trenquen?". I jo els hi vaig explicar com ho fem, els hi vaig ensenyar una foto d'uns rovellons a la llosa i flipaven, em van dir que ho provaran. A veure si torno d'aquí uns anys i s'ha posat de moda cuinar a la llosa a Birmània. Pel camí vam recollir a unes senyores per pujar-les fins a una pagoda a dalt del turó, estaven tant contentes que ens van convidar a una espècie de dinar popular que feien. També vam veure que estàven preparant una super festa i la cremació del càrrec més alt del monestir que acabava de morir. Era curiós veure com feien un funeral amb una espècie de falla (com un castell de colors), música electrònica a tot drap i paradetes al voltant. Al vespre, hem anat al cine a veure una pel·lícula birmana (amb subtítols en anglès). Era una història de com feien un documental per concienciar a la població de les males condicions amb les que han de viure les prostitutes a Birmània, que a part de ser discriminades, no tenen drets i sofreixen maltractaments de tot tipus. No sabia què anava a veure i em vaig emportar una molt grata sorpresa, era molt interessant com conseguien tocar un tema tant real però complicat a la vegada, que sigui significatiu i entretingut, afegint parts tipus culebron asiàtic.<br />
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Em ve de gust acabar Birmània amb una mica de platja així que he baixat fins a Dawei on he llogat una moto durant 3 dies i he recorregut les platges de la zona. Avui m'he despertat a una tenda de campanya a la platja, el primer que sento són les onades del mar, tinc la boca seca de les cerveses que vam prendre la nit passada a la vora el foc. Obro la tenda i poso els peus a la sorra, em poso el banyador, agafo l'esnorquel i vaig a l'aigua. Al meu voltant hi ha només una platja de somni envoltada de turons selvàtics i penso, això és el paradís i no li podien posar un nom més acertat al lloc, Paradise beach. És l'hora d'agafar la moto i tornar a Dawei, agafar el bus nocturn a Yangon i d'alla un vol curt fins a Vietnam on em trobaré amb la meva germana Maria i el meu cunyat Jordi que venen a viatjar amb mi.<br />
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[ENGLISH]<br />
I walk between the tea plantations, the jungle and the bamboo forests. I pass by a group of women cultivating the land with traditional costumes and a technique that I've never seen of making circles with the tool, a family that is making sugar cane tablets give me a bit to try, some kids are waving from the distance and laugh when you wave them back, the smile of each local that I see, dogs getting close, buffalos, a group of kids that come to shake my hand, chanting in the monastery and a new smell of some food I've never tried. There are moments that I have the feeling that I'm in the "camino de Santiago" for the fact that I walk many hours a day, from town to town in a rural area, until I suddenly see a Pagoda, local people or a rice field that makes me realize that I'm in Myanmar. <br />
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Today, we've gone for dinner in an indian restaurant with some friends from the three days trekking from Kalaw to Inle Lake. Later on, we've gone to take some beers to a really cheap place and after that to a pub in order to meet the israeli couple that we also met in the trek. We arrive there and they tell us that they are about to close, it wasn't even 22h and the israelis weren't there. A group of pretty drunk locals are going out from the pub, we talk with them and they told us that they follow us to the place we were before. They were two girls from Inle Lake that own a hostel, two guys that own a hostel in Yangon (the capital) and want to open a hostel in Inle that's why they take two thai architects with them. When we arrive again in the bar they tell us "we pay for everything"! They start bringing so many beers and food, they were cheering every two minutes and they were super funny. One of the girls "passed away" on the table and we realized later on that she vomited on the table, they took her home afterwards. The place was supposed to close at 23h but they closed the curtains down and we went out almost at 1h. Such a surrealist night!<br />
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I've just came back from a very beautiful trekking for two days through the villages of Hsipaw, so I start exploring a bit the town. I go to the Shan palace, a small house of the royal family of the ethnic Shan. They are supposed to close in 10min and I see that the fence is already closed, but I see that there's still some people around the house, so I open the fence and I go to have a quick look. I enter in the house and I meet an old lovely couple that live there, their grandparents were the princes that they built the palace. We talk for a long time and the man told me that the catalans are like the Shan, he asked me many questions and knew perfectly what's happening in Catalunya. I still don't think it's comparable, as the situation here is a bit different because there are many different ethnies, with different religions, hard militaries that have opressed the country for a long time and several violent conflicts between ethnies. The man was comparing it for the fact that the Shan are a part of the burmese population that have been opressed by the militars and have to fight a lot to get their rights. <br />
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Today I'm spending the whole day in the train from Hsi-Paw to Mandalay and I'm so pleased about it. The train is old, with broken fans, all the windows opened and an oscillating movement that bouces the wonderful landscape. Besides being the cheapest way of travelling here (2.5€ for a 12 hours trip) I think it's the best, maybe it's not the fastest but you can enjoy the landscape (rural areas, villages, children waving, teenagers playing a kind of footvolley), you have a lot of space and you can interact with locals. The controller has showed me his daughter when in one of the stops has come up with the mother, I've met other travellers, a kid was getting closer looking at the photos I was checking with the tablet until he sat on me and was amazed with the photos of animals, afterwards I was talking for a while with his father. <br />
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Imagine a flat area of ca. 50sqm, a dominant buddhist religion and 50 kings governing in 200 years. Each one was building pagodas (monuments, temples, etc.) and budhas for showing their faith. You only have to paint a red flamed sun during the sun rise and hot air balloons covering the sky. This is Bagan, a dreamed postcard.<br />
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Here in Myanmar I have the constant feeling that I miss many things, partially because it's a really different culture, but mostly because the majority of the people don't speak English and I don't understand the local languages. In Latinamerica, I learned many things just talking with locals, listening to a conversation in the bus or understanding someone that was explaining things. Some friends recommended me contacting a local girl, Nui Nui, to be our guide in Bagan and it was amazing as she answered many doubts of things I couldn't understand. In buddhism, everything that you do in this life will have a consequence in the next life when you get reencarnated, therefore the people is really kind between them and with the tourists, also because there are not that many tourists. When they see someone without a leg or a hand, they don't feel sorry because they think that this person might have done something wrong (like stealing something) in the previous life, but they will do donations to this person anyway to make sure they have a good next life. Offering flowers are for the beauty, electricity (lights) is for wisdom, water for long life, etc. <br />
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Nui Nui explained us that she remembers perfectly her past life, she used to be her mother's best friend that died being 50 years old a bit before that she was born. She remembers it so well that when she was 3 years old, she told her parents that they weren't their parents and that this wasn't her family. The parents denied this all the time until the day that the mother said "if this is not your home, show me where you live". The little Nui Nui took her mother to the home of her best friend, they explained the situation to the parents of the friend, and they puta bowl full of jewels and said "take the ones that are yours" and she suddenly took the only two rings that belonged to the dead friend. Nui Nui lived from 3 to 11 y.o. with her "new" family. An amazing story and even more when some hours before Stephen Hawking died, the person who contributed the most to the theory that there's no life after death. <br />
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Today I've done a tour in Ogre island, our guide was a charming 82 years old local man. It was so interesting going with him because he knew everyone and we were visiting artisans. One of them was a family that they were making hand made slates. I told them that at home we use this material for several things. A bit later, the old man comes with the family and asks "did you say that you use the slates for cooking? don't they brake with the fire?". I explained them how we use them and I showed them a photo of some mushrooms that we cook on the slate material and they were so amazed, they told me that they'll try it. Maybe I'll come back in some years and it will be trendy. On the way, we gave a ride to some women to take them to a pagoda on the top of a hill. They were so happy that they invited us o a kind of public lunch. We also saw that they were preparing a huge party for the cremation of the head of the monastery who just died. It was curious seeing how they were doing a funeral, like a burning colorful castle, really loud electronic music and little shops next by. In the evening, we went to the cinema to see a bus¡rmise film (with english subtitles). It was about how they were making a documentary to concienciate the population of the bad conditions that the prostitutes in Myanmar have to face, that besides being discriminated, they don't have rights and often get aggressions. I didn't know what I was going to see and I got a really grateful surprise. It was so interesting how they managed to talk about such a real topic but complicated at the same time, to make it meaningful and entertaining, adding parts of asian soap opera style. <br />
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I really want to finish Myanmar with a bit of beach so I've gone down to Dawei, where I've rented a motorbike for 3 days and I've visited the beaches of the area. Today, I've waken up in a tent on the beach, the first thing I hear are the sea waves, I have the mouth dry from the beers that we took last night next to the fire. I open the tent, I put my feet on the sand, I put on the swimming trunk, I take the snorkel and I go to the water. Around me there's only a beautiful beach surounded by jungly hills and I think "this is paradise" and I couldn't agree more with the name of this place, Paradise beach. It's time to take the motorbike and go back to Dawei, take a night bus to Yangon and a short flight to Vietnam where I'll meet my sister Maria and her boyfriend Jordi, that will come to travel with me. Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-37630515976329906412018-03-15T18:28:00.000-07:002018-03-15T18:28:27.322-07:00Australia West Coast<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Hi havia una vegada un peixet anomenat Nemo que va conéixer a Dory i van decidir fer un roadtrip junts per Austràlia. Aquesta vegada l'història és una mica diferent, Nemo i Dory no són peixos sino furgonetes. Ens em ajuntat 4 alemans (la Charlott, la Christin, el Falk i la Marleen), 1 suissa (la Sandra) i jo. Tots viatgem "sols", vam coincidir per facebook i vam quedar per veure si quadravem els plans per viatjar junts per la costa oest d'Austràlia. El Falk va trobar un noi que llogava una furgoneta que es deia Nemo, així que vam batejar a l'altra furgoneta Dory. I amb això ja ho teniem tot per començar el roadtrip.<br />
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<br />Un parell de dies abans de partir vam anar a Rottnest amb la Sandra i el Falk, una illa a prop de Perth que vam recórrer amb bici, on hi han platges impressionants i és l'únic lloc on hi viu un animaló anomenat Quokka. Només està a aquesta illa perquè el van anar extinguint poc a poc, fins i tot hi havien pràctiques absurdes com jugar a futbol amb el Quokka com a pilota.<br />
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<br />Anem fent camí cap al nord fent parades als parcs nacionals, banys a increïbles platges solitàries, cuinant a la furgo i dormint a llocs on podem passar la nit sense pagar. Això últim no sempre ho aconseguim perquè hi han poblacions que no permeten acampar gratuitament. Una nit que anavem camí als blowholes (una espècie de guèisers provocats per la pressió de l'aigua de les onades passant per uns forats de la roca), se'ns va fer de nit així que vam decidir fer nit a un caminet de vora la carretera dins del parc nacional. A les 6 del matí un guarda ens toca el vidre, surto i em diu multa de 100$ cadascú. Li vaig explicar que voliem anar a la zona d'acampada però que se'ns va fer de nit i no voliem conduir de nit, així que només ens va cobrar 11$ que és el preu de la zona d'acampada. El motiu per no conduir de nit és que els cangurs tenen un instint suicida i de nit surten de cop dels matorrals i creuen la carretera davant teu. La veritat és que s'enlluernen per les llums del cotxe i la gent els atropella, hi han moltíssims cangurs morts a vora de les carreteres. <br /><br />Arribem a Monkey Mia, un lloc on dofins de nas d'ampolla s'acosten cada dia a la costa. Es veu que aquí havien alimentat dofins durant molts anys i per això s'acosten tant, ara estan intentant aturar-ho reduint al màxim la quantitat de menjar i no donant de menjar a les mares per tal que no deixin d'ensenyar a les cries a caçar. Només arribar ens diuen que ens acabem de perdre el moment que els hi donen menjar però a vegades es poden veure durant la resta del dia. Al arribar a la platja veiem alguns dofins a la llunyania així que ens posem a l'aigua. Ens diuen que el millor és no intentar-los seguir perquè no marxin i si volen ja s'acostaran, així ho fem. De sobte veiem que les aletes de dofins s'acosten a on erem fins al punt que ens passen entremig, gairebé tocant-me. I ho fan en varies ocasions, jo explotava de felicitat. Veig un dofí que sembla tenir una gran ferida cicatritzada al cap i, parlant amb un dels cuidadors de la zona, em diu que havia sofert un atac d'un tauró i ara la resta de dofins li fan el buit per tal de no ser tant vulnerables a un altre atac. També veig a un parell de ratlles àguila saltant i aletejant com si volguessin sortir volant, ara entenc perquè li diuen ratlla àguila. Acabem el dia amb una passejada per les aigües poc profundes on cada dos per tres veiem ratlles. Quin dia tant increïble!<br />
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<br />Fem camí fins a Coral Bay, que no té aquest nom per casualitat, ja que aquí hi ha una gran barrera de corall i només anant a fer snorquel uns metres endins ja veus corall. També té una altra particularitat que és que hi ha un tros de la barrera sense corall i això fa que uns gegants marins puguin entrar, les mantes ratlla. Son uns bitxarracos de 4 a 5 metres d'amplada que van planejant per la sorra. Vam poder fer snorquel i veure'n varies, et faltava l'aire al veure-les. Vaig aprofitar per fer buceig i em van portar a un lloc increible, la estació de neteja. És un lloc on tot d'animals van a netejar-se, alguns amb el corall o roques, d'altres amb d'altres peixos que els ajuden a netejar-se. A més de veure un corall brutal i alguna tortuga, comencen a apareixer taurons per tot arreu i tens els sentiments creuats de l'emoció de veure'ls i la por que et generen. <br /><br />Vaig conéixer a una noia holandesa al camping d'Exmouth que va anar en dues ocasions a veure el naixement de les tortugues sense èxit. Em va dir "has d'estar al lloc i al moment indicat per veure-ho". I al dia següent allà estàvem, al lloc i moment indicat, a la 5 mile beach durant la posta de sol. De sobte veiem una tortugueta que feia esforços sobrehumans per sortir del forat i arrastrar-se per la platja fins al mar. I de sobte, darrere nostre comencen a sortir tortugues recent nascudes de la sorra, els deixem distància per no interferir. I cada vegada en surten més i més, semblava una erupció de tortugues. I comencen a restregar-se amb totes les seves forces cap al mar. Ha estat un moment tant màgic! I el més flipant és que d'aquí a 25 anys tornaran a aquesta mateixa platja per pondre els ous i continuar la màgia. <br />
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<br />Em sento com a un safari, els cangurs se't creuen cada dos per tres, i jo que no hi estic acostumat em fa molta il·lusió i parem el cotxe per veure'ls. També trobem emus, que són com astrussos però amb el cap diferent, dingos, que són gossos salvatges, etc. <br /><br />Ens dirigim al parc nacional Karijini i quan portem uns 40km comencem a tenir problemes amb el Nemo, s'encenen totes les llums i a sortir fum, així que parem, truquem a l'assegurança i ens venen a rescatar. S'ha de reemplaçar la corretja de distribució i hi han efectes colaterals, així que almenys tardaran una setmana a reparar la furgoneta. Intentem que l'assegurança ens proporcioni una alternativa però són extremadament incompetents. Comencem a mirar alternatives pel nostre compte pels 9 dies que ens queden de viatge. De casualitat trobem una furgoneta a molt bon preu i el Falk se'n volia comprar una perquè es quedarà dos anys a Austràlia, així que quedem amb el propietari i el dia següent ja repreniem el viatge cap al parc nacional amb la nova furgoneta Crush (és la tortuga de Nemo).<br />
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<br />El parc nacional es caracteritza per tenir roca vermella que composa uns canyons espectaculars on hi han gorges molt maques per banyar-te. Una de les caminates que vam fer vam passar per un tram que es deia el pas de l'aranya i fins que no vam estar allà no vaig entendre perquè. Havies de caminar amb una mà i un peu a cada paret del canyó, a sota tenies el riu i acabaves a una piscina natural molt maca. Una de les nits que dormiem al parc vam veure una pitó de més d'un metre que es va quedar paralitzada al veure'ns, ens van dir que no tenia verí, i quan vam deixar-li una mica de distància i silenci, va continuar el seu camí. <br /><br />Vam anar un parell de dies al sud de Perth, margaret river, a fer una mica de platja abans d'acabar el viatge. L'última nit vam anar a sopar plegats a Perth, es feia extrany anar a un restaurant, vestits amb roba de carrer i ben dutxats. Jo era el primer a marxar, em van acompanyar a la parada de bus per anar a l'aeroport i ens vam despedir. He tingut molta sort, ens hem avingut tant bé que no ens podiem creure que ha passat un mes i ja ha arribat la fi del viatge. Pròxima parada: Birmània.<br />
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<br />[ENGLISH]<br />Once upon a time, there was a small fish called Nemo who met Dory and decided doing a roadtrip in Australia together. In this occasion, the story is a bit different, Nemo and Dory aren't fishes, they are vans. We are 4 germans (Charlott, Christin, Falk and Marleen), 1 swiss (Sandra) and me. We are all travelling "alone", we knew each other in facebook and met to see if we agreed on travelling together in the west coast of Australia. Falk found a guy that was renting a van called Nemo, so we named the other one Dory. And with all that we were ready to begin the roadtrip. <br /><br />A couple of days before leaving we went to Rottnest with Sandra and Falk, an island close to Perth that we visited by bike, where there are amazing beaches and a little animal called Quokka lives. It only lives in this island because it disappeared slowly, there were some stupid games like playing soccer using a Quokka as a ball. <br /><br />We were heading north stopping in national parks, swimming in amazing lonely beaches, cooking in thevan and free camping. Sometimes we were not able to achieve this last thing as there are some towns where they don't allow it. A night that we were on our way to the blowholes (a kind of gueysers caused by the water pressure of the waves going through some holes on the rock), it got dark so we decided spending the night in a little path next to the road of the national park. At 6 in the morning a ranger knocked, I went out and he told me 100$ each. I explained him that we wanted to go to the camping area but it got dark and we didn't want to drive at night, so he only charged us 11$ which is the price of the camping area. The reason for not driving at night is because the kangaroos have a suicide instinct and at night they suddenly jump out the bushes and cross the road in front of you. The truth is that they get flashed with the lights, they stop and they get hit by the cars. There are many dead kangaroos on the roads. <br /><br />We arrive in Monkey Mia, a place where the bottled-nose dolphins get close to the shore everyday. They've been feeding them for many years and that's why they get so close. Currently, they are trying to stop it reducing a lot the quantity of food they give them and not feeding the mothers for allowing them to teach how to fish to the babies. When we arrived they told us we just missed the feeding, but sometimes you see them anyway. When we arrived in the beach we saw some dolphins far away, so we went into the water. They told us that is better not trying to follow them to avoid that they leave and if they want to they will get closer, so we did it like this. Suddenly, we saw that the fins got closer to where we were and they started to swim between us, almost touching me. They did it in several occasions, so I was exploting of happiness. I saw a dolphin that had a big skar in the head and a local told me that it suffered a shark attack and now the rest of the dolphins were leaving it alone not to be vulnerable to other attacks. I also saw a couple of eagle rays jumping and moving the "wings" like if they wanted to departure, now I understand why they call them eagle rays. We finished the day walking in the shallow waters where every now and then we saw rays. Such an incredible day! <br /><br />We are heading Coral Bay, which doesn't have this name by chance, it is because here there is a big coral barrier and only snorkeling you see a lot of coral. It also has another particularity, there's a part without coral and this allows that giant sea animals go through, the manta rays. They are 4-5m long and they swim very close to the sand. We could snorkel there and we saw some of them, I felt lack of air when I was seeing them. I also dived there and they took me to an increadible place, the cleaning station. It's a place where lots of animals go for cleaning themselves, some with the coral or rocks, others with the aid of other fishes. Besides the wonderful coral and some turtles, reef sharks started appearing everywhere which caused me mixed feelings between the emotion of seeing them and the fear that they generate. <br /><br />I met a dutch girl in the camping of Exmouth that went on two occasions to see the turtles birth unsuccessfully. She told me, "you need to be an the right place and on the right time to see it". On the following day we were there, at the right place and time, 5 mile beach during sunset. Suddenly, we saw a little turtle that was doing huge efforts to go out from a hole and go through the beach to the sea. Suddenly behind us, just born turtles started appearing in the sand, we gave them some distance not to disturb. Everytime more and more turtles were appearing, like an eruption of turtles. They started going towards the sea with all their power. It was such a magical moment! And the most incredible thing is that in 25 years they'll come back to this beach to lay the eggs and continue the magic. <br /><br />I feel like in a safari, kangaroos crossing all the time, and want to stop the van all the time to see them. We also see emus, that are like ASTRUSSOS but with a different head, dingos, that are like wild dogs, etc. <br /><br />We are going towards Karijini national park and when we've been driving for 40km we start to have problems with Nemo, all the lights went on and smoke started to appear, so we stopped, called to the insurance and they rescued us. The fan belt is broken and there are collateral effects, so at least it will take a week to repair it. We tried that the insurance provides an alternative but they are extremely incompetent. We start to look for alternatives for the 9 remaining days of the trip. We found a really cheap van and Falk wanted to buy one because he'll stay in Australia for 2 years, so we met the owner and on the next day we continued the trip to the national park with the van Crush (is the name of the turtle in Nemo).<br /><br />The park has red rock that composes amazing canyons where you can find beautiful gorges to swim. One of the treks was passing by the spider path and until I was there I didn't understand the name. You had to walk with a hand a feet in each wall of the canyon, with the river underneath and it finished in a really beautiful natural pool. One of the nights we saw a python more than a meter long that was paralized when it saw us, they told us that it didn't have poison, and when we gave a bit of distance and silence, it continued its way. <br /><br />We went a couple of days on the south of Perth, Margaret river, to go a bit to the beach before finishing the trip. The last night we had dinner together in Perth, it was weird going to a restaurant, dressed with casual clothes and well showered. I was the first one to leave, so they took me to the bus stop for going to the airport and we said goodbye. I've been so lucky, we've got along so well and we couldn't believe that the month is gone and the end of the trip has arrived. Next stop: Myanmar. Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-13968431951765273102018-02-16T05:09:00.000-08:002018-02-16T05:09:21.722-08:00Philippines 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />La segona part del viatge, ara només amb l'Ivan, la Isa i la Mercè, comença mogudeta. Sona per la megafonia de l'avió un missatge del capità diguent que degut al mal temps potser no podem aterrar a Legazpi, però finalment ho aconsegueix! Després ens vam enterar que era un tifó però no gaire fort. Legazpi és una ciutat de la regió de Bicol coneguda per albergar el volcà Mayon, el més gran de Filipines, i tenir bon menjar. El volcà ens va rebre amb una erupció que va fer que evaqüessin a la gent dels pobles veïns, encara que nosaltres no vam poder veure-la perquè la cima del volcà estava ennubolada tot el dia. <br /><br />Vam decidir anar a la propera ciutat de Naga per poder fer barranquisme. Abans d'embarrancar-nos vam anar a la cova dels ratpenats, i si la batejo així no és perquè hi ha un grupet de ratpenats, és perquè n'hi havia milers. Entre tots feien un xiscle ensordidor i tota l'estona queien gotes que tan aviat podien ser de les filtracions de la cova com pipi de ratpenat, la textura sobre la que caminavem dins la cova també era curiosa, doncs eren montanyes de "guano" (caca de ratpenat) i a les zones estretes volaven tan aprop teu que gairebé et tocaven. La següent cova era totalment diferent, l'únic animal que vam trobar va ser una serp i era com un riu subterrani, doncs haviem de nadar o caminar per l'aigua gairebé tota l'estona. Després de les coves vam dinar i ha començar la ruta pel riu on vam fer rappel a 3 cascades, va ser una ruta increïble. <br /><br />En general m'he emportat una grata sorpresa del menjar filipino, tenen plats molt bons i elaborats, alguns força picants i d'altres amb una barreja filipino-espanyola ben curiosa, com el flam o la caldereta, que aquí és carn guisada, però aquí les guindilles picants estàn més indegrades. A Bicol entre d'altres coses típiques com el bicol express, que per cert està molt bo, hi ha el gelat picant i no podiem marxar sense probar-lo, així que després d'esmorzar vam comprar una tarrina del nivell volcà i un altra no tant picant. La barreja de picant i gelat em va agradar molt, et refresca però et deixa els llavis picant. <br /><br />Ens dirigim al nord de Luzon, a Sagada, on hi han un munt de terrasses d'arròs, montanyes i una cova molt espectacular. La cave connection va ser ben diferent a les altres amb formacions de roca molt boniques, encara que no apta per claustrofòbics ja que havies de posarte per uns forats que no veies on posaves els peus. Vam fer una ruta per anar a visitar uns taüts que penjaven de l'escarpada roca de la montanya, ja que creien que com més a prop del cel més fàcil seria arribar-hi.<br />
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Aquesta és l'última nit que estarem tots junts, així que decidim buscar algun lloc local per sopar, seguim un cartell d'un lloc que ens porta al soterrani d'una casa i al entrar veiem que hi han bastants locals així que decidim quedar-nos-hi. Comencem a parlar amb la cambrera, resulta que és el seu aniversari i que està lluny de casa seva perquè ha vingut a Sagada a treballar per fer diners. Decidim buscar una espelma, li cantem "happy birthday" i li fem bufar l'espelma, es va emocionar tant que se'ns va posar a plorar, va ser molt emotiu! Al sortir decidim anar a l'únic bar del poble i al arribar ens diuen que no podem entrar perquè ja tanquen, cooom? Si són les 22h! Li diguem a la cambrera si podem demanar una cervesa per emportar i ens diu que si, ens posem a parlar amb ella, així que decideix tancar el bar i ens diu que ens la podem prendre dins. A una sala de dins hi havia més gent, la cambrera va començar a prendre xupitos de tequila, nosaltres també i vam sortir d'allà unes hores més tard ben distrets. Al arribar a l'hostal ens en recordem que haviem quedat amb el guia a les 4 del matí per pujar una muntanya a veure la sortida del sol, no sé de qui va ser la idea però ara ens n'arrepentiem tots! Ens va costar però a les 4:30 estavem sortint de l'hostal amb la sort que uns filipins de l'hostal també hi anaven així que ens van portar un tros amb jeepney (és com un jeep allargat que utilitzen com transport públic). Al arribar a la cima encara quedava una estona per la sortida del sol així que aprofitem per fer una bacaina a vora d'un foc que havien fet. La posta de sol no la vam veure gaire perquè estava núvol però l'excursió va ser maca. <br /><br />Ha arribat el moment del comiat, ells prenen un bus cap a Manila i jo me'n vaig a Bontoc. El meu jeepney ja està a punt de marxar així que ens abracem i vaig a agafar-lo. Estem amb les llàgrimes als ulls, no m'acostumaré mai a les despedides, així que em pujo al jeepney i ells es queden a la llunyania per no allargar el moment. Arranca el jeepney i surten corrents fent adeu amb els brassos i jo també, la gent del transport flipava. Tantes coses que els volia dir, tantes ganes de veure'ls, moments que m'imaginava que fariem i ja s'ha acabat. La veritat és que el millor és que tots hem viscut tot el viatge amb molta emoció però amb tota la naturalitat del món, des del primer moment semblava que ens haviem vist ahir, part per l'amistat intrínseca que tenim i perquè hem mantingut el contacte a través de missatges i trucades. <br /><br />He tingut la sensació que m'ha faltat contacte amb la gent local, ja que la majoria de filipins que hem conegut eren turistes locals o relació client-proveedor (guies i demés), així que he decidit buscar un voluntariat durant una setmana. He contactat la granja orgànica de la família Layoc, a unes 4 hores de Sagada, que accepten voluntaris i justament em diuen que un voluntari ha decidit retrassar la seva estada així que tenen un lloc lliure per mi. No m'ho penso i el dia següent vaig cap allà! És una granja que està al mig de les muntanyes on hi ha una familia vivint, 8 treballadors i estudiants filipins d'agricultura que estan vivint allà durant un temps i fent pràctiques. Seré el que abans es considerava un mosso, treballaré 5 hores al dia a canvi d'allotjament i menjar. <br /><br />Jo vaig arribar el divendres al migdia i resulta que al cap de setmana no treballen així que començo bé. El dissabte era la graduació dels estudiants del curs anterior, van cuinar un munt de plats locals, jo els vaig ajudar a fer padis (una espècie de mandonguilles aixafades de la flor del plataner amb all i ceba, boníssims) i kasawa (una pasta dolça fet d'una arrel barrejada amb sucre, embolicada amb fulla de plataner i bullida), van fer la cerimònia, vam menjar el tiberi amb un plat fet de tronc de plataner i amb les mans, i festa! El diumenge vam fer una excursió molt xula amb els estudiants a unes cascades. <br /><br />Durant la setmana hem treballat més dur juntament amb els altres voluntaris, una parella belga i un noi canadenc, i he après un munt de coses; a propagar bambú, a fer dos tipus de compost, a fer tres tipus de repelent natural per insectes, he plantat un plataner, hem dallat uns camps, he apres algún plat típic a la vegada que he menjat super bé i m'ho he passat de conya. Realment he aconseguit el que buscava, contacte tot el dia amb gent local i he après un munt de coses de la cultura filipina.<br />
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<br />Encara tinc 4 dies fins que marxo així que vaig a Mindoro, una illa prop de Manila on es pot fer bon busseig i platja. Allà m'acull el Lez, un noi filipí de couchsurfing que treballa a un resort. Ha estat una despedida genial; snorquel, busseig, caminar per la platja i menjar local! A més resulta que sense saber-ho ens vam apuntar a fer busseig junts amb la parella belga que van arribar un dia més tard que jo, així que ens vam retrobar i vam passar el dia junts.<br />
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<br />He sentit d'altres vegades que un pais és el pais dels somriures, però a cap lloc he vist somriures tant sincers com aquí, hi ha molta gent feliç. En general no t'intenten timar pel fet de ser turista cosa que s'agraeix molt, tot el contrari, a la gent d'aquí li encanten els turistes, es volen fer selfies amb tu tota l'estona, els nens et saluden quan passes i et conviden a cantar karaoke amb ells i a beure. La veritat és que Filipines és un pais molt especial i no el podia haver disfrutat de millor manera. <br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />The second part of the trip, currently only with Ivan, Isa and Mercè, begins messy. We hear in the plane a message from the captain saying that due to the bad weather maybe we can't land in Legazpi, but finally he succeeds! Afterwards we heard it was a light typhon. Legazpi is a city of the region of Bicol well known for having the Mayon volcano, the largest in the Philippines, and for the delicious food. The volcano welcomed us with an eruption that caused the evacuation of the people on the nearby towns, although we couldn't see it because the top of the volcano was cloudy all the time. <br /><br />We decided going to the close city of Naga to do canyoning. Before that we went to the bats cave, and if I name it like this is not because there are a group of bats, it's because there are thousands of them. Among all them, they produced a loud noise and all the time drops were falling down that could be cave water filtrations or bat pee. The texture below our feet was also special, they were mountains of "guano" (bat poo) and in the narrow areas the bats were flying so close to us that they were almost touching us. The following cave was totally different, the only animal that we saw was a snake and it was like an underwater river, then we had to swim or walk on the water all the time. After the caves we had lunch and we began the path through the river where we rappeled 3 waterfalls. It was an incredible path. <br /><br />In general I've been surprised for the philippino food, they have so good and well prepared dishes, some quite spicy and others with a mix philippino-spanish quite interesting, like the "flan" (spanish desert) or the "kaldereta", here is stewed meat, although the chillis are more integrated. In Bicol, among other typical things like the bicol express, which btw is so good, there's the spicy icecream and we couldn't leave without tasting it, so after breakfast we bought one level volcano. I really liked the mix of spicy and icecream, it's refreshing but leaves your lips hot.<br /><br />We are going to the north of Luzon, to Sagada, where there are lots of rice terraces, mountains and a really spectacular cave. The cave connection was different compared to the others, with really beautiful rock formations, although it's not suitable for claustrophobics because we had to squeeze through some holes where you couldn't see where we were placing out feet. We did a hike where we visited the hanging coffins, they were hanging from the steep rock of the mountain, because they were thinking that the closer to heaven the easier would be reaching it. <br /><br />This is the last night that we will stay together, so we decide looking for a local place for dinner, we follow a sign which leads us to the basement of a house. When we entered we saw many locals so we decided to stay. We started talking with the waitress, it was her birthday and she was far from home because she came to Sagada looking for a job for making money. We decided looking for a candle, we sang happy birthday and she blew it. She was so touched that started crying, it was a really emotional moment! When we went out, we decided going to the only bar in town and when we arrived they told us that we can't enter because they are about to close, whaaat? It's only 22h! We told the waitress if we could have the beers to take away, she told us that no problem. After talking with her for a while she decided closing the bar and telling us that we could take it inside. In another room there were more people, the waitress started taking tequila shots with us and we went out from there happier than ever. When we arrived in the hostel we remember that we had to meet the guide at 4 in the morning to hike a mountain to see the sunrise. I don't know who had the idea but at that moment everyone was regretting it. It was hard but at 4:30 we were going out from the hostel quite lucky because some filipinos in the hostel were going there aswell so we got a ride for a part of the way by jeepney (it's like a long jeep that they use as public transport). When we arrived at the top there was some time left for the sunrise so we did a short siesta next to a fire. We almost didn't see the sunrise because it was cloudy but the hike was nice.<br /><br />It's time for the farewell, they take a bus to Manila and I'm going to Bontoc. My jeepney is about to leave so we hugged and I went to take it. We have our eyes on tears, I'll never get used to the farewells, so I went up the jeepney and they remained far away not to make it longer. When the jeepney began to move, they went out running waving and I was doing the same, the people in the transport were so surprised. So many things I wanted to say, so much will to see them, moments I was imagining what we would do and it's over. The truth is that the best is that we've lived all the trip with so much excitement but with all the normality of the world. From the first moment it seemed that we saw each other yesterday, part for the embedded friendship that we have and because we've kept in touch through calls and messages. <br /><br />I have the feeling that I miss more local interaction because most of the philippinos that we've met were local tourists or customer-provider (guides and so on), so I've decided looking for a volunteering during a week. I've contacted the organic farm of Layoc family, around 4 hours from Sagada, and they just told me that a volunteer decided postponing his arrival so there was a free space for me. I didn't think twice and the following day I went there! It's a farm in the middle of the mountains where there's a family, 8 workers and philippino agriculture students that live there for some time. I will work 5 hours a day in return of acommodation and food. <br /><br />I arrived Friday midday and I didn't know but they don't work in the weekends. Saturday was the graduation of the students of last year, they cooked many local plates, I helped them with the paddis (a kind of flat balls made of banana blossom, garlic and onion, delicious) and kasawa (a sweet paste from a root with sugar, wrapped in banana leaf and boiled). They did the ceremony, we ate the food in a plate made of banana log with the hands, and party! On Sunday we did a really nice excursion with the students to some waterfalls. <br /><br />During the week we've worked harder together with other volunteers, a belgian couple and a canadian guy. I've learned so many things; propagating bambu, making two kinds of compost, 3 kinds of natural repellent for insects, I've planted a banana tree, I've learned typical dishes, I've eaten so well besides having fun. I've really got what I was looking for, contact all day with local people and learning so many things about philippino culture. <br /><br />I still have 4 days to leave Philippines so I go to Mindoro, an island so close from Manila where you can do good diving and going to the beach. Lez hosted me, a philippino guy from couchsurfing that works in a resort. It has been so great; snorkel, diving, walking in the beach and local food! Also, without knowing it we registered for diving together with the belgial couple that they arrived a day later than me, so we met again and spent the day together. <br /><br />I've heart in other occasions that a country is the country of smiles, but I haven't seen such true smiles like here, many people is happy. Normally, they don't try to cheat you for the fact of being tourist which I'm so grateful for. The other way around, the locals love the tourists, they want to make selfies with you all the time, the kids wave at you when you pass by and they invite you for karaoke with them and drinks. The truth is that Philippines is such a special country and I can't imagine a better way to enjoy it. <br /><br />Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-59462236193200486642018-01-30T22:50:00.004-08:002018-01-30T22:50:58.515-08:00Fino fino filipino<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Uno, dos, tres, cuatro, cinco, mesa, cuchara, cuchillo, tasa, fiesta, recibo, despedida, basura, baño, para, sigue sigue, caldereta, calabaza, iglesia, perro, pecas, problema. Totes aquestes paraules no només existeixen en castellà, he descobert que també existeixen als idiomes filipinos, com el Tagalo. El motiu és que els espanyols van colonitzar Filipines durant 300 anys. Això provoca una barreja molt eclèctica, doncs estàs a un pais d'Àsia, ple de gent amb trets asiàtics, parlant un idioma desconegut i de cop diuen "despedida", al restaurant el senyor Marcelino o la senyora Juana et serveixen un estofat de pollastre amb suquillo que es diu "adobo" juntament amb una cervesa San Miguel (que és d'origen espanyol però es va fundar a Filipines) i veus esglèsies cristianes per tot arreu en comptes de temples, moltes anomenades "iglesia ni cristo" que aquí vol dir església de crist. És super interessant la barreja.<br /><br />Començo pel principi, ha arribat el moment d'empendre de nou el viatge. Faig la motxilla, penso què ràpid es desacostuma un a fer-la, tardo molt però també perquè el fet d'establir-se per uns mesos a un lloc va inevitablement lligat a l'acumulació de coses. Faig selecció d'algunes coses però noto que la motxilla pesa més que abans, també un es desacostuma al pes de portar-la. La Bet i el Clint em porten a l'aeroport, em sigut una familia durant uns mesos i em costa pensar que no sé quan podré veure'ls de manera regular una altra vegada, de totes maneres aquest temps junts no ens el treu ningú.<br /><br />Aterro a Manila, el primer que em trobo a la sortida és un grup de "mariachis" filipinos donant la benvinguda per recaptar diners per les últimes inundacions que van matar a unes 300 persones. Canvio de terminal per esperar a la Isa, la Mercè i l'Ivan que arriben més tard que jo. Els he rebut amb un cartell de "Welcome to Ribelandia" que he fet a l'escala a Papua Nova Guinea. Quina ilusió el retrobament, ens donem una super abraçada i aquí comença el viatge!! Agafem un taxi cap a l'apartament on ens esperen l'Adri i la Silvia que ja estaven dormint, al obrir la porta també veuen el cartell! Recapitulació dels integrants del viatge; la Mercè és amiga meva de tota la vida de la Seu, l'Ivan i la Isa, son amics d'HP i l'Adri és amic de la Isa de València, fins aquí som els que vam anar a la India, més la Silvia que també és amiga d'HP i va venir a Cuba amb la Isa a l'inici del viatge. El viatge promet moltíssim, ja sé que ens entenem molt com amics i com a companys de viatge, i no només això sino que cadascú aporta un punt molt únic al grup que millora cada moment. <br /><br />La Mercè em porta uns regals de nadal de la familia, calçotets de la mama, un jersei i una bossa dels somnis (un saquet amb tot de missatges de la familia), em va fer moltíssima il·lusió. És dia 31 de Desembre així que volem a Boracay per passar el cap d'any, una illa coneguda per la festa. Vam tenir la mala sort que va estar plovent gairebé tot el dia, el qual no ens va impedir pegar-nos un banyet a la platja. S'estava acostant la mitjanit i la pluja no parava, però vam decidir sortir igualment, vam comprar uns xubasqueros que semblavem teletubbies, unes cerveses i l'Adri havia portat llaunes amb 12 raïms per cadascú. Estavem a la platja amb un munt de gent, fem el compte enrere, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1... Happy New Year!! Ens mengem els raims (sense campanades) i brindem l'any nou!! Comencen a sortir focs artificials de varis punts del mar que no van parar fins uns 20 min més tard! Vam anar en busca d'un lloc per sortir de festa i hi havien tot de festes per la platja, ens parem davant d'un lloc que hi havia molt bona música i tot i que no parava de ploure al nostre grup li va semblar un plus per la festa, doncs allà estavem amb els xubasqueros saltant i ballant a una tarima de la platja amb alguns filipinos i extrangers, va ser una gran nit!<br />
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<br />L'endemà anem cap a Bohol, on vam visitar els chocolate hills (uns turons marrons que tenen forma de tauleta de xocolata), vam anar a veure tarseros, el primat més petit del món (del tamany d'un puny) del que es va inspirar el personatge del mestre Yoda de la guerra de les galàxies. Els vam veure a un santuari que estan lliures i vetllen per la seva conservació ja que és una espècie en perill d'extinció i son molt sensibles, es poden arribar a suicidar si se'ls estressa. <br /><br />D'aquí vam anar a la península de Panglao, vam agafar unes motos per anar a visitar una cova i donar-nos un banyet dins, després vam anar a veure la posta de sol a la punta oest de la península. L'endemà vam matinar per agafar una barca per anar a la propera illa de Tagbilaran. Aquí les barques les construeixen d'una manera especial, son llargues i estretes però els hi posen uns brassos perquè siguin estables. De camí a l'illa vam avistar dofins i un cop a l'illa vam fer snorquel on vam veure un munt de peixos i varies tortugues que nedaven amb una pau que es contagiava.<br />
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<br />La següent parada va ser l'illa de Camiguin, una illa molt poc turística on la gent viu feliç i ens diuen que la majoria que neixen allà s'hi acaben quedant. Fem una ruta amb moto per l'illa on anem a veure cascades i un centre de conservació de les cloïsses gegants, és el molusc més gran que existeix i necessita el sol per viure ja que als seus llavis hi creix l'organisme del que s'alimenta. A la tornada de sopar passem per davant d'una casa on feien una festa i cantaven karaoke, 5 min més tard estavem cantant it's my life amb ells i ens convidaven a beure. Aquí el karaoke és super popular, des de ben d'hora pel matí sents que a alguna casa canten karaoke. L'endema anem a bucejar a Mantigui, una illeta que amb 15min caminant li dones la volta, i per la nit coincideix que son las "fiestas" així que anem a un concert multitudinari de l'últim guanyador de "Philippinos' got talent".<br />
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<br />Volem a Palawan, una de les illes més visitades de Filipines, on anem saltant d'illa en illa de l'arxipelag Bacuit, acampem a una d'elles i acabem sopant i ballant a la sorra de la platja, tot això amanit amb uns tiberis impressionants que ens preparaven a la barca. Ha arribat la fi del viatge per la Silvia i l'Adri, i els despedim de correcuita a l'escala de Manila perquè ens haviem de pegar una marató per l'aeroport a fi de no perdre el vol a Legazpi, se'ls trobarà molt a faltar aquests dies que queden de viatge.<br />
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<br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />Uno, dos, tres, cuatro, cinco, mesa, cuchara, cuchillo, tasa, fiesta, recibo, despedida, basura, baño, para, sigue sigue, caldereta, calabaza, iglesia, perro, pecas, problema. <br />All these words not only exist in spanish, I've discovered that they also exist in the philippino langages like the Tagalo. The fact is that the spanish people colonized Philippines during 300 years. This causes an eclectic mix, you are in an asian country, full of people looking asian, speaking an unknown language and suddenly they say "despedida" (farewell in spanish), in the restaurant sir Marcelino or mdme. Juana serve you chicken stewed with juice called "adobo" with "San Miguel" beer (which was originated in Spain but founded in Philippines) and you see christian churches everywhere instead of temples, many of them named "iglesia ni cristo" which in spanish means that not even christ goes to this church but in philippino means church of christ. The mix is super interesting. <br /><br />Let's start from the beginning, it's time to start again the new trip. I pack my backpack, I think that I get used of not packing so fast. It takes a long time but also for the fact that when you stablish yourself for some months in a place you acumulate more things. I choose some things but I feel that the backpack is heavier than before, also because I get used not to feel the weight of carrying it. Bet and Clint take me to the airport, we've been a family for some months and it's hard to think that I don't know when I will be able to see them on a continuous way again, anyway nobody can steal this time together. <br /> <br />I land in Manila, the first thing I see at the exit is a group of philippin "mariachis" welcoming to raise money for the last floods that killed 300 people. I move to another terminal to wait for Isa, Mercè and Ivan that arrive later than me. I've welcomed them with a "Welcome to Ribelandia" sign that I've done in the stopover in Papua New Guinea. Seeing them was super exciting, we give each other a huge hug and here the trip begins!! We take a taxi to the apartment where Adri and Silvia were waiting for us, when they open the door they also saw the sign! <br />Summary of the group of the trip; Mercè is a friend from the childhood in la Seu, Ivan and Isa are friends from HP and Adri is a friend of Isa from Valencia, this is the group that went to India together 3 years ago, plus Silvia that is also a friend from HP and came to Cuba with Isa at the beginning of the trip. I'm sure the trip will be amazing, I know we get along so well as friends and travel mates, and not only that, also each of us give a really unique point of view that improves the trip constantly. <br /><br />Mercè brought me some Christmas present from my family, underwear from my mom, a sweater and a bag of dreams (is a bag with many messages from my family), I loved it. It's 31st of December so we flew to Boracay, an island known for the party, to spend the new's year eve. Unfortunately it was raining almost the whole day, but it didn't prevent us from taking a swim to the beach. Midnight was getting closer and the rain wasn't stopping, but we decided going out anyway, we bought some raincoats that made us look like teletubbies, some beers and Adri brought cans with 12 grapes for each one of us (spanish tradition). We were in the beach with so many people, we start the countdown, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1... Happy New Year!! We ate the grapes and cheered the new year!! The fireworks started from several locations on the sea and didn't stop for 20 minutes! We looked for a place to party and there were many private parties on the beach, we stopped in front of a place with good music and even the rain didn't stop, it didn't bother us so much, the other way around it turned into an extra, we were there with the raincoats jumping and dancing in a stage in the beach with some philippinos and foregneirs, it was a great night!<br /><br />On the following day we went to Bohol, where we visited the chocolate hills (brown hills that have the shape of a chocolate bar), we saw tarseros, the tiniest primate in the world (it has the size of a fist) which inspired the character of Yoda of Star Wars. We saw them in a sanctuary where they are free and work for their conservation due to is an endangered specie and they are so sensitive, they can even commit suicide if they get stressed. <br /><br />We went to the peninsula of Panglao, we took some motorbikes to visit a cave and swim in it, afterwards we saw the sun set in the western point of the peninsula. On the following day we woke up early to take a boat to go to the close island of Tagbilaran. Here they build the boats in a special way, they are long and narrow but they put some arms to stabilize them. On the way to the island we saw dolphins and once we were in the island we did snorkel where we saw many fishes and several turtles that were swimming with such a peace that was contagious. <br /><br />Next stop was Camiguin island, an island that is not so touristic and the people lives in a happy way, they say that the majority that are born there, finish also there. We took some motorbikes to go to some waterfalls and a conservation centre of giant clams, the largest living mollusk that needs the sun to survive because in their lips grow the organism to be fed. When we came back from dinner we passed by a house that they were doing a party and singing karaoke, 5 min later we were singing it's my life with them and they were inviting us to drink. Here the karaoke is super popular, from really early in the morning you can hear that they sing karaoke in some homes. On the following day we dived in Mantigui, a small island that in 15 min you can walk around it. At night there was the "fiestas" so we went to a crowded concert with the last winner of Philippinos got talent. <br /><br />We flew to Palawan, one of the most visited islands of Philippines, where we hopped from island to island in Bacuit archipielag, we camped in one of them and we finished having dinner and dancing on the sand of the beach, all that with some amazing meals that they were preparing in the boat. <br /><br />It's the end of the trip for Silvia and Adri, and we said a quick goodbye in the stopover of Manila because we had to do a marathon in the airport not to lose the flight to Legazpi. We will miss them so much in this remaining days of the trip. Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-58255340357763579862018-01-04T02:13:00.000-08:002018-01-04T02:13:00.069-08:00Australia 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />
S'acosta el meu aniversari i em ve de gust fer una barbacoa per celebrar-ho. Aquí hi han barbacoes públiques a tot arreu i el més impressionant és que sempre estan netíssimes. Si una cosa té la gent a Austràlia és que són super respectuosos, difícilment veuràs brutícia pel terra o pots caminar per la gespa d'un parc de nit sense preocupar-te de xafar una tifa de gos. Encara que a vegades de tant respectuosos es passen, si li dones un cop a algú sense voler, aquesta persona et demanarà perdó tres o quatre vegades , però bé millor l'excés d'educació que la manca. També és un país ultra segur, la gent s'oblida la cartera a un banc del carrer i hores més tard encara està allà, o pots deixar les coses sense vigilància a la platja i no desapareixerà res, és un gust. <br />
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Com que treballo gairebé cada dia, l'únic dia que podia fer la barbacoa era un dilluns al vespre. Llavors em van entrar els dubtes de si vindria algú un dilluns al vespre avisant dos dies abans, però després vaig pensar si som 4 gats també ens ho passarem bé, així que vaig tirar endavant el plan. Vaig decidir fer-ho a kangaroo point, on vaig anar el primer dia de Brisbane, allà hi han uns penyasegats molt xulos amb vistes a l'skyline i on vaig anar a escalar un dia. Molta gent va confirmar i al final erem més de 30, sort que vaig comprar menjar de sobres. Van portar dos pastísssos i va acabar sent un aniversari increible. <br />
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Ja veig que encara estaré aquí per les eleccions, així que faig els tramits per poder votar des d'aquí, el qual em va implicar volar a Sydney per anar al consulat a demanar que m'enviessin el vot. Vaig aprofitar i em vaig quedar un parell de dies per Sydney. Aquí hi viu la Jeni, una amiga d'HP que també va marxar a viatjar i ara està treballant a HP Sydney. Encara recordo fer un café a HP abans de que marxés i que m'explicava tot el pla perquè a mi també em rondava pel cap fer el mateix. M'ho vaig passar super bé a Sydney, la Jeni em va portar a New Market a dinar, el barri hipster. Després vaig anar a visitar l'opera perquè els meus cosins em van regalar una visita guiada a l'opera per l'aniversari de l'any anterior. Em va encantar i al veure l'opera vaig tenir la sensació de "ara si que estic a Austràlia". Al acabar em va passar a recollir la Jeni i vam anar a Bondi beach, una platja molt maca de surfistes on vam fer una passejada i vam veure la posta de sol. <br />
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Uns dies més tard, la Núria, una amiga de la Nona de teatre, m'envia un missatge que vindrà a Brisbane el dia següent, jo increiblement tenia dos dies de festa així que ens n'anem a Fraser island, l'illa de sorra més gran del món. A l'inici hi havien nomès unes roques volcàniques i amb els moviments de sorra aquesta es va anar depositant fins a formar una illa gegant. No és que sigui una illa desèrtica, sino que està plena de vegetació que creix a la sorra, hi han uns fenòmens curiosos també i és que hi han llacs formats únicament d'aigua de pluja on els sediments de la vegetació del voltant creen una capa impermeable perquè no es filtri l'aigua. A l'illa no hi han carreteres així que es va amb 4x4 per la platja i tampoc hi viu ningú, osigui que gairebé no hi ha contaminació lumínica i es veu un cel estrellat que et treu la respiració.<br />
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He aprofitat els dies de festa per anar visitant la zona; Byron bay, Noosa, Gold Coast, etc. No m'he n'he adonat però ja fa 3 mesos que estic a Austràlia, aviat ja farà un any que vaig començar el viatge i encara m'agradaria visitar més llocs abans de tornar, així que decideixo allargar el viatge uns mesos més. <br />
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Els amics amb els que faig els viatges després de nadal volen venir a interceptar-me al viatge, l'han batejat com "Viaje a Ribelandia", així que quadrem dates i decidim que ens trobarem el 30 de Desembre a Filipines per viatjar junts. <br />
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Aquestes festes de Nadal es fan extranyes perquè no estic amb la familia i amics com sempre i fa una calor de deu. A casa tenim el tió i hem menjat torrons, però no és el mateix, a més em va tocar currar el dia de Nadal. També està bé viure un Nadal a una cultura diferent i aquest any he tingut dos sopars de Nadal de feina. Les videotrucades s'agraeixen més que mai quan s'està tant lluny, és més facil sentir-te amb els teus i estar per uns moments a un dinar d'aniversari, fent uns beures amb amics, a casa els tiets o a la preparació del dinar de sant Esteve.<br />
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Ha arribat l'hora de dir adeu i aquesta vegada és la que més em costa del viatge, el fet d'estar a casa en família amb la Bet i el Clint, fer una rutina, tenir una feina, uns amics, em fan que em costi dir adeu. Vaig fer quedada abans de marxar per pendre cerveses i sortir de festa i va venir un munt de gent. Al dia següent vam fer un dinar de despedida amb la familia del Clint, son tant macos, em tracten com si fos part de la familia. Em van regalar un quadre de mi que havia pintat el pare del Clint que és un artista i van fer una copia en petit tipus postal on hi van fer un escrit. Vaig treballar fins l'últim dia, i en aquest dia em van portar un pastís gegant de despedida. Acabo de marxar i ja trobo a faltar Brisbane. <br />
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[ENGLISH]<br />
My birthday will be soon and I'd like to do a bbq to celebrate it. Here there are public bbqs everywhere and the most impressive is that they are always so clean. In Australia the people is so respectful, you'll hardly see rubish on the floor or you could walk on the grass of a park in the middle of the night without caring of stepping on dog poo. Also sometimes they are maybe too respectful, if you hit someone accidentally on the street, this person will say sorry three or four times even it was your fault, sorry for sorry. It's also a really safe country, the people can forget the wallet on a banch in the street and some hours later it will still be there, or you don't have to care about your belonging in the beach that nothing will disappear, it's such a pleasure. <br />
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As I'm working almost everyday, the only day that I could do the bbq was on monday evening. Then I started having doubts if someone would come on a Monday evening with 2 days notice, but then I thought that if we are not so many people we'll have fun anyway, so I continued with the plan. I decided doing it in Kangaroo point, where I went the first day in Brisbane, there are really impressive cliffs with the skyline in front and where I climbed once. Many people confirmed and finally we were more than 30 people, luckily I bought enough food. They brought two cakes and at the end was an unforgettable birthday. <br />
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I'll probably be here for the catalan elections, so I'm doing all the admin for being able to vote from here, including flying to Sydney to go to the consulate for requesting the bullet papers. I took the advantage and I stayed for a couple of days in Sydney. Here is where Jeni lives, a friend from HP that also left for travelling and now is working at HP Sydney. I still remember taking a coffee at HP before she left and she was explaining all the planning because I was already thinking to do the same. I enjoyed so much Sydney, Jeni took me to New Market for lunch, the hipster neighbourhood. Afterwards, I went to visit the operahouse because my cousins gave me a guided tour in the opera as a present for my last birthday. I loved it and when I saw the operahouse I had the feeling that now I'm in Australia. When I finished, Jeni picked me up and we went to Bondi beach, a really nice surfers beach where we went for a walk and saw the sunset. <br />
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Some days later, Nuria, a friend of Nona from theatre, sent me a message that she would come to Brisbane of the following day. I incredibly had two days off so we went to Fraser island, the biggest sand island in the world. At the beginning there were only some volcanic rocks and with the movements of the sand it was sitting until it formed a huge island. It's not a desertic island, it's full of vegetation that grows in the sand, there are also curious phenomenons like lakes containing purely rain drops where the vegetation around that falls create a waterproof layer in order that there's no water filtrations. There's no roads in the island so you have to go with 4 wheel drive in the beach. Also, nobody lives in there, so there's almost no luminic pollution and you can see a sky full of stars that is breathtaking.<br />
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I've taken the advantage of the days off to visit the area; Byron bay, Noosa, Gold Coast, etc. I haven't realized it but it has been already 3 months that I'm in Australia, soon it will be one year that I started my trip and I still want to visit some more places before coming back, so I've decided to extend the trip some more months.<br />
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The friends with who I travel every year after Christmas want to come to travel with me, they've called it "Trip to Ribelandia", so we agreed on dates and we've decided to meet on the 30th of December in the Philippines. <br />
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This Christmas is a bit weird because I'm not with the family and friends like always and it's so hot in here. At home we have the tio (log shitter) and we've eaten "torrons" (spanish sweets), but it's not the same, moreover I had to work on Christmas day. Anyway it's good to live a different Christmas in a different culture and this year I've had to work Christmas parties. The videocalls help more than ever when one is so far away, it's easier feeling that you are with your people and being for a little while on a birthday lunch, drinking with friends, at my uncle's and aunti's home or on the preparation of Saint Esteve. <br />
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It's time to say goodbye and this time is the hardest one, the fact of being at home in family with Bet and Clint, having a routine, having a job, friends, make harder saying goodbye. I organized before I left to take some beers and party and so many people came. On the following day, I did a farewell lunch with Clint's family, they are so nice, they are treating me like I'm part of the family. They gave me as a present a painting of me that Clint's father, who is an artist, painted and they did a copy in a card format to write on it. I worked until the las day and on that day they gave me a huge farewell cake. I've just left and I already miss Brisbane. <br />
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<br />Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-44361869100249167602018-01-04T01:26:00.003-08:002018-01-04T01:26:52.515-08:00Australia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />
Estic molt emocionat per anar a Australia i la raó principal és per veure a la Bet, una de les meves millors amigues de Barcelona que porta 4 anys vivint a Brisbane i està casada amb un australià super adorable, el Clint. Arribo a l'aeroport i em ve a buscar la Megan, la germana del Clint que és un amor de persona, jo ja la vaig conéixer quan van venir de viatge a la Seu just abans de que jo marxés. Després de portar-me de ruta turística per Brisbane i anar a fer un café al Kangaroo Point, un mirador a vora del riu de Brisbane (i no, no hi han cangurs). I és que Brisbane és una ciutat molt especial doncs té un riu que sembla l'amazones serpentejant pel mig de la ciutat, on passen ferris que els pots agafar amb la targeta del bus i en comptes de selva tens un skyline molt impressionant d'edificis. <br />
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La Megan em va portar a casa seva a dinar i després em va portar a casa de la Bet i el Clint, on 5 min després arribava la Bet, quina il·lusió!! Era super extrany estar amb la Bet a l'altra punta del món, però de seguida em sentia amb el caliu de casa. A més la Bet havia organitzat un sopar amb uns amics seus i em va deleitar amb formatges del pirineu que li havien portat els seus pares, no podia estar més feliç! <br />
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Va ser un cap de setmana intens doncs el divendres vam anar al Brisbane festival a la vora del riu i el dissabte vam anar a la primera calçotada popular a Austràlia, a casa d'uns catalans que viuen a Toowoonga a dos hores de Brisbane. I es que fer una calçotada aquí no és gens fàcil, però aquest noi va aconseguir calçots i els va plantar al seu hort, un altre noi va aconseguir les nyores d'una senyora de Melbourne que les importa per fer la salsa romesco. Per acabar-ho de rematar tenien una botifarra espectacular que aconseguien passant-li la recepta de la botifarra com la fem nosaltres a un carnisser local, aquí la fan d'una altra manera i no té res a veure. <br />
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Porto ja 9 mesos viatjant i em ve de gust fer una mica d'aturada a Austràlia i treballar una mica, segur que molta gent pensava que no arribaria mai aquest moment però també arriba un punt que ve de gust fer coses productives, disminuïr el número d'estímuls que rebo viatjant, no fer la motxilla cada dia i fer una mica de calaix. Per això, fa uns mesos que vaig demanar la working holidays, és un visat que et permet treballar un any a Austràlia amb treballs de fins a 6 mesos per poder viatjar pel país. La raó per la qual he decidit fer-ho aquí és perquè és dels països més cars i on també puc cobrar més, a més sempre és interessant viure la cultura d'un país des d'un altre punt de vista. Demanar el visat no va ser gens fàcil, doncs vaig haver de treure'm l'advanced abans de marxar i demanar papers varis al consulat de Lima i després al de Buenos Aires, però perfí me la van donar. <br />
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Amb el visat working holidays és molt difícil obtenir una feina d'enginyer ja que ja saben que estaràs temporalment al país i sempre donaran preferència als residents, a no ser que et vulguis quedar una estada llarga i busquis una empresa que t'esponsoritzi. La meva intenció és estar poc temps, així que el més fàcil és treballar a l'hosteleria. El Clint és chef a un restaurant on fan events, va preguntar al manager si necessitàven algú i li van dir que si, així que vaig anar a presentar-me i la setmana següent ja treballava de cambrer. Aquí només em donaven feina per un parell de dies per setmana així que vaig trobar una altra feina a un restaurant molt xulo a la powerhouse, una antiga fàbrica a la vora del riu remodelada per fer espectàcles. La veritat és que he tingut molta sort perquè als dos llocs treballo molt a gust i hi ha molt bon rotllo. Encara que se me n'ha anat una mica de les mans perquè quan no treballo a un lloc treballo a l'altre o a vegades als dos el mateix dia, i estic fent més hores que un ventilador, però em paguen força bé així que compensa. <br />
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Faltava poc pel referèndum per la independència de Catalunya de l'1 d'Octubre i voliem donar suport des d'aquí així que ens vam reunir amb un grup de catalans que viuen a Brisbane i vam montar una rua de cotxes l'1 d'Octubre per la ciutat, fent vàries parades i lectures d'un manifest. Aquella nit vam presenciar tots els successos i la veritat es que et sents molt impotent estant tant lluny en aquests moments i sense poder fer massa. La crispació i l'enfrentament el podiem notar des d'aquí, doncs tenim l'estelada penjada a l'entrada de casa i hi ha un veí que quan passa per davant de casa amb el cotxe posa el "que viva España" a tope i baixa les finestres. <br />
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En fi, la següent setmana va ser l'aniversari del Clint, així que vam fer una festa a casa amb la seva familia i un altre dia vam anar a un restaurant a dinar amb els seus amics. M'agrada molt coneixer-los a tots i compartir aquests moments per saber com és la seva vida a Austràlia, sino estés aquí difícilment ho podria viure. <br />
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Ja ho he comentat en alguna ocasió que m'encanta fer teatre i al decidir quedar-me una mica aquí a Brisbane vaig buscar alguna ocasió per fer teatre. A través de la Diana, una amiga mexicana de la Bet que té un programa de radio, vaig aconseguir el contacte d'un grup de teatre colombià de Brisbane, els vaig contactar i just em van dir que aquell cap de setmana rodarien un curt per un festival de curts de Brisbane, que anés a coneixer-los i a veure si em podien donar un paper al curt. El festival es diu 48h i consisteix en que el divendres al vespre et donen la temàtica del curt, ens va tocar terror, el nom i professió del prota, un objecte que ha d'aparéixer i una frase que algu ha de dir durant el curt. A partir d'aquí tens 48 hores per fer el guio, rodar el curt, editar-lo i entregar-lo el diumenge al vespre. Una vegada van fer el guió em van dir que tindria un petit paper a l'escena grupal i el dissabte ja estavem rodant, va ser super divertit i fins i tot van utilitzar drons per aquesta escena. Aquí us deixo el curt (activeu els subtítols en castellà si voleu). Vaig anar a la premier i ens vam tenir 3 nominacions però no en vam guanyar cap.<br />
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[ENGLISH]<br />
I'm so excited to go to Australia and the main reason is to see Bet, one of my best friends of Barcelona that has been living in Brisbane for 4 years and is married with a really lovely aussie, Clint. I arrived in the airoport and Megan came to pick me up. She is Clint's sister and is a love, I met her when she came on a trip to la Seu just before I started the trip. After taking me for a tour in Brisbane and take a coffee in Kangaroo Point, a sightseeing point next to the Brisbane river (and no, there's no kangaroos there). Brisbane is a really special city because it has a river that seems the amazones snaking in the midle of the city, where there's ferrys that you can take with the bus card and instead of jungle you have a really amazing skycrapers skyline.<br />
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Megan took me to her place for lunch and afterwards dropped me at Bet's and Clint's home, where 5 min later Bet was arriving, I couldn't believe it!! It was so weird being with Bet on the other side of the world, but suddenly I felt the warmth of being home. Moreover, Bet organized a dinner with some of her friends and delighted me with cheeses from the pyrenees that her parents brought. I couldn't be happier!<br />
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It was an intense weekend because on Friday we went to the Brisbane festival next to the river and on Saturday we went to the first public "calçotada" in Australia, in the house of some catalans who live in Toowoonga, 2 hours away from Brisbane. Doing a "calçotada" here is not that easy, but this guy got "calçots" (a kind of onion) and growed them in his garden, another guy got "nyores" (a kind of capsicum) from a woman in Melbourne that imports them to do the "romesco" sauce. If that wasn't enough, they had delicious "botifarra" (a kind of sausage) that they got giving the recipy to a local butcher. <br />
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I've been 9 months travelling, so I want to stop for a bit in Australia and work a bit. I'm sure that many people thought that this moment would never arrive but there's a moment that I want to do productive things, reduce the number of inputs i receive while travelling, don't pack the backpack everyday and earn a bit of money. For this reason, some months ago I applied for the working holidays, is a visa that allows you to work for one year in Australia in jobs of maximum 6 months to be able to travel in the country. The reason for which I decided doing it here is because this is one of the most expensive countries I've travelled and where I can also earn more money, besides that is always interesting living the culture of a country from a different point of view. Applying for the visa wasn't easy at all, I had to pass the advanced english exam before leaving and request some certificates in the spanish consulate of Lima and Buenos Aires, but finally I got it. <br />
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With the working holidays visa is so difficult obtaining an engineering job because they know that you'll be temporary in the country and they will give preference to the residents. In case you want to stay long term you can look for a company willing to sponsor you. My intention is staying short term, so the easiest is working in hospitality. Clint, who is chef in a restaurant where they do events, asked to the manager if they needed someone and they told him yes, so I went to introduce myself and the following week I was working there as a waiter. I was only getting a couple of shifts a week so I found another job in a really nice restaurant in the powerhouse, an old factory next to the river that was renewed to host shows. I've been so lucky because I feel so well in both places and there's a good work environment. Although some weeks it's too much because when I don't work in a place I work in the other one and I don't have any day off, but I get good money so it's worthy. <br />
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We were close to the referendum for the independence of Catalonia on the 1st of October and we wanted to give support from here so we had a meeting with a group of catalans who live in Brisbane and we organized a car convoy on the 1st of October in the city, stopping in different places and reading a manifest. That night we saw all that happened in Catalonia and you feel really impotent being so far away on these moments and not being able to do much. We could feel the anger and the rivality here because we have the "estelada" (independentist flag) hanged on the home entrance and there's a neighbour that everytime he drives in front of the house he plays "que viva España" really loud and take down the windows.<br />
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Well, on the following week we celebrated Clint's birthday, so we did a dinner at home with his family and another day we went for lunch to a restaurant with his friends. I enjoy a lot meeting all them and sharing those moments to know how is their life in Australia, without being here it would be so difficult living them. <br />
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I've commented in more than one occasion that I love doing drama and, having decided staying in Brisbane for a while, I looked for a chance to do drama. Through Diana, a mexican friend of Bet that has a program in the radio, I contacted a colombian theatre group in Brisbane. They told me that that following weekend would shot a shortfilm for a shortfilm festival in Brisbane, so they told me I should go to meet them and they would see if they would see if there's a role that could match me in the shortfilm. The festival is called 48h, on Friday evening you get the topic of the shortfilm, in this case we got horror, a name and profession of the main character, an object that has to appear and a sentence that someone has to say. From this moment, you have 48 hours to create the script, shot the shortfilm, edit it and submit it on Sunday evening. Once they got the script they told me I would be able to have a small role in the group scene and on Saturday we were shoting. It was so funny and we even used drones to shot the scene. I went to the premier and we got 3 nominations but we didn't win any of them. Below you can find the shortfilm.<br />
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<br />Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-82236848886238832772017-11-06T04:33:00.000-08:002017-11-06T04:33:36.645-08:00Bye bye New Zealand<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Fa més d'un mes que tenia escrita aquesta entrada del blog però amb tota la situació a Catalunya no em venia de gust publicar-la, i no és que hagi tornat tot a la normalitat, tot el contrari, però una petita pausa de l'actualitat política m'anirà bé. <br /><br />I wrote this post of the blog more than a month ago but with the situation in Catalonia I didn't feel like publishing it. It's not that everything went back to normality, actually it's the other way around, but it will be good for me having a small break of the political news. <br /><br />[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />L'endemà de la gran nevada ens diuen que la carretera ja està oberta de nou, l'havien tallat perquè havien caigut arbres. El següent destí era Milford Sound, un fiord que és una de les atraccions principals de Nova Zelanda, però havia caigut molta neu allà i la carretera estava tallada, així que decidim canviar els plans i fer la volta per la part més sud de l'illa a l'inversa. Ens dirigim a Dunedin, una ciutat a vora del mar plena de murals i conectada amb una península on hi ha bastanta vida salvatge. Nosaltres vam enganxar un dia plujós i no vam veure molts animals, de fet vam anar a una platja a la recerca de lleons marins i se'ns va posar a ploure moltíssim i a fer molt vent, en 5min estavem xops. <br /><br />Continuem el camí més al sud, anem al far del Nugget point i de camí ens trobem foques, ho trobo tant espectacular que em sembla que no m'acostumaré mai. Anem a una altra platja on se suposa que hi han lleons marins però res de res, també voliem veure els pingüins dels ulls groc (és una espècie molt rara), però ens haviem d'esperar al vespre i vam decidir continuar la ruta. Anem a visitar el far Waipapa i aquí ens trobem una sorpresa, 4 lleons marins Nova Zelandesos a la platja de la vora! Un d'ells era gegant, els mascles poden arribar a pesar 400kg, era molt impressionant. L'endemà anem cap a Te Anau i la ruta és de pel·lícula, de la costa van apareixent montanyes nevades fins que estàs totalment envoltat.<br />
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<br />El canvi de ruta ha sigut molt bona idea perquè la carretera està oberta per anar a Milford Sound, així que decidim anar-hi l'endemà. De Te Anau a Milford Sound són 120km d'una de les carreteres més espectaculars que he vist mai, com més avances més s'apropen les montanyes, més altes son, més aigua surt de tot arreu... Estava amb la boca oberta i la llagrimeta de veure un paisatge tant increïble. Han instalat un sistema molt modern per poder tenir oberta la carretera el màxim de dies possibles i detectar desprendiments, provocar allaus controlades, etc. Al arribar al final de la carretera ens trobem amb l'espectacular fiord de Milford Sound, jo ja tenia constantment la pell de gallina. Agafem un barco per recórrer-lo i ens trobem més foques a unes roques. Diuen que el fiord encara és més espectacular si plou perquè surten noves cascades i aigua de tot arreu, nosaltres fins el moment haviem tingut bon temps que va ser perfecte per veure el paisatge i just a mig recorregut amb el barco es posa a ploure moltíssim, cosa que és bastant probable perquè és dels llocs on més plou del món. De tornada amb el vaixell veig una cosa extranya a l'aigua, de sobte ve el guia i em diu pingüins! Un grup de pingüins crestats de fiordlands estaven saltant, ens acostem i després de veure'ls saltar una bona estona n'hi han dos que es queden aprop netejant-se. Aquesta és una espècie amenaçada i principalment només es poden veure aquí. No oblidaré mai aquest dia!<br />
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Anem de camí al Mount Cook, la muntanya més alta de Nova Zelanda, a fer un homenatge al Edmund Hillary que s'entrenava aquí i així va ser el primer alpinista a pujar l'Everest. El dia que vam arribar estava plovent i no es veien la majoria de muntanyes que teniem al voltant, però l'endemà només despertar-nos vaig veure el Mount Cook, impressiona molt. Vam fer excursions per la zona tot el dia, primer a un llac amb icebergs i després a una montanya per veure'l desde diferents punts.<br />
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<br />L'endemà anem a Tekapu, un poblet a vora d'un enorme llac turquesa degut a un mineral dels glaciars que anomemen farina glaciar. Aquesta seria la nostra última parada els quatre junts, així que aprofitem per passar molta estona junts, fins i tot vam anar a jugar a tenis a unes pistes públiques. El matí abans de separar-nos pugem a una muntanya on hi ha un observatori i unes bones vistes al llac, allà ens trobem a una francesa, l'Adele, que vam conéixer a Wanaka. Ella també volia anar cap a Christchurch, així que després de despedir a la Sophia i a la Petra, ve amb nosaltres. <br /><br />Christchurch és la ciutat més gran de l'illa sud, va sofrir dos forts terratrèmols el 2010 i 2011, i el segon va ser devastador, van morir gairebé 200 persones i van deixar gran part del centre en ruines. Fa pena passejar pel centre perquè veus la catedral partida per la meitat i només veus que pàrquings públics on hi havien edificis abans, però poc a poc van reconstruïnt-ho tot. Per altra banda, hi han algunes noves construccions bastant interessants, com un conjunt de botigues construides en containers de vaixell. Aquí ens allotja el Frank de couchsurfing, un noi sevillano super majo que treballa de chef aquí i va viure molts anys a Andorra. L'endemà anem a visitar la preciosa península d'Akaroa, ja veig que trobaré aquest paisatges. Avui m'he llevat a les 4 per anar a l'aeroport i agafar el vol a Brisbane, Austràlia, on hi viu la Bet, una de les meves millors amigues, per continuar l'aventura!<br />
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<br />A l'observatori de Wanaka em vaig trobar una parella gran de catalans (gairebé no me n'he trobat ni un en tot el viatge) que estaven viatjant un any només a Nova Zelanda i em van fer pensar amb lo relatiu que és el temps de viatge. Abans de venir, hi va haver gent que em va dir que l'illa nord me la podia saltar i que amb un parell de setmanes a l'illa sud és suficient. M'he quedat gairebé dos mesos entre les dues illes, m'han encantat les dos i com és tradició m'he deixat un munt de coses per fer però que algún dia tornaré per fer-les. De Nova Zelanda m'enporto un munt d'imatges de postal, una naturalesa que costa de creure que és real, unes bones pràctiques de conservació de flora i fauna, l'amabilitat de la gent local, la integració del indígenes Maori i la pau que transmet cada racó. <br /><br />[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />The following day of the big snow they told us that the road is opened again, they closed it because some trees fell down. Our next destination is Milford Sound, a fiord that is one of the main highlights of New Zealand, but it snowed a lot there and the road was closed, so we decided changing the plans and doing a loop the other way around to the most southern part. We are going to Dunedin, a city next to the sea with plenty of murals and connected with a peninsula with a lot of wildlife. We got a rainy day and we couldn't see many animals, in fact we went to a beach looking for sea lions and it started raining heavily and being so windy, in 5 min we were completely soaked. <br /><br />We continue the trip to the south, we go to Nugget point and on the way we saw seals, this is so spectacular that I think I'll never get used to it. We went to another beach where we might see sea lions but we didn't see them and the same for the yellow-eyed penguins (a really rare specie). We went to visit Waipapa lighthouse and we get a big surprise here, 4 New Zealand sea lions in the beach next to it! One of them was huge, the males can weight up to 400kg, it was so impressing. On the next day we went to Te Anau and the road trip was like being on a movie, on the coast the snowed mountains appear until you are completely surounded by them. <br /><br />Changing the plan has been a really good idea because now the road is open to go to Milford Sound, so we decide going there tomorrow. From Te Anau to Milford Sound there are 120km of one of the most amazing roads I've ever seen, the further you get the closer the mountains go, the higher they are, more water comes out from everywhere... I was with my mouth opened and a tear in my eyes seeing such an incredible landscape. They've installed a really modern system for being able to have the road opened the maximum possible days and detecting the rocks falling, cause controlled avalanches, etc. When we arrive at the end of the road, we see the spectacular fiord of Milford Sound, I constantly had goose bumps. We took a boat to go through it and we saw more seals on the rocks. They say that the fiord is even more impressive if it's raining because there's new waterfalls coming out all over, we had good weather until then which was perfect to see the landscape and in the middle of the boat trip it started raining heavily, which is quite normal because is one of the places where it rains more of the world. On the way back with the boat I saw something weird in the water, suddenly the guide came and told me "penguins"! A group of fiorland crested penguins were jumping. We went closer and after seeing them jumping for a while, two of them remained quied cleaning themselves. This is an endangered specie and you can almost only see them here. I will never forget this day! <br /><br />We are on the way to Mount Cook, the highest mountain in New Zealand, to do a homage to Edmund Hillary who was being trained here and he was the first alpinist to climb the Everest. The day we arrived was raining and we couldn't see the mountains that were surrounding us. On the following day, when we just woke up we saw the Mount Cook, it was really impressive. We did some excursions in the area during the whole day, first to a lake with icebergs and after to a mountain to see it from different points. <br /><br />The next day we went to Tekapu, a small town next to a huge turquoise lake due to a mineral on the glacier that they call glacier flour. This will be our last stop the four of us together, so we took the advantage of spending a lot of time together, we even played tennis in a public court. The morning before splitting we went up a mountain where there's an observatory, there we met a french girl, Adele, that we knew in Wanaka. She also wanted to go to Christchurch , so after saying goodbye to Sophia and Petra, she joined us. <br /><br />Christchurch is the biggest city of the south island, they suffered two strong earthquakes in 2010 and 2011, the second was devastating, almost 200 people died and a big part of the center was on ruins. It's sad walking in the center because you see the cathedral broke in two and you only see public parkings where there used to be buildings, but the are rebuilding everything slowly. On the other side, there are some quite interesting new constructions, like a group of shops build in ship containers. Here, Frank from couchsurfing hosted me, a really nice guy from Sevilla who works as a chef and lived many years in Andorra. On the next day we visited the beautiful peninsula of Akaroa, I'm already seeing that I'll miss these landscapes. Today I've waken up at 4am to go to the airport and take a flight to Brisbane, Australia, where Bet, one of my best friends, is living. The adventure goes on! <br /><br />In the observatory of Wanaka I met an old catalan couple (I haven't almost met any in all the trip) that they were travelling for one year only in New Zealand and they made me think that the travel time is so relative. Before coming, there were some people that they told me I could skip the north island and that with 2 weeks in the south island was more than enough. I've stayed almost two month in New Zealand, I love both islands and to follow the tradition I've left many things to do but one day I'll come back for doing them. From New Zealand I take with me many postcard images, a nature that is difficult believe it's real, good practices of conservation of the remaining nature and animals, the kindness of the locals, the integration of the indigenous Maori people, the preservation of their culture and the peace that every single place transmits. <br />Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-68202380961190954182017-09-16T18:13:00.000-07:002017-09-16T18:13:03.009-07:00New Zealand: Illa sud / South island<br />
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Hi ha una pàgina de motxillers per Nova Zelanda a facebook on vaig veure una entrada d'una noia holandesa, la Sophia, que buscava companys de viatge per recórrer la illa sud, així que li vaig escriure. Vam quadrar dates i també havia s'havia posat d'acord amb una noia d'Austria, la Petra, i una d'Alemania, la Merle, que es compraria un cotxe. Erem 4 companys de viatge, tots viatjant pel nostre compte, i un cotxe, així que ja podia començar l'aventura per la illa sud! <br /><br />M'aixeco ben aviat a la casa on m'allotjaven a Wellington i un dels nois que vivia allà em porta a l'estació on havia quedat amb la Petra, anem cap al port i agafem el ferri que creua de l'illa nord a la sud. Al arribar ens recull la Merle amb el cotxe i anem cap a Nelson on ens trobem amb la Sophia. Ja ens haviem reunit els 4 i comencem a parlar sobre plans de viatge, històries i, en general, a coneixer-nos. He tingut molta sort perquè les tres són molt bona gent, tots tenim caràcters diferents però tinc la sensació que ens portarem molt bé. <br /><br />El dia següent ja ens posem en marxa, Nelson és la porta per visitar el parc nacional Abel Tasman. Conduim fins a l'entrada del parc on agafem un taxi aquàtic, una barca que ens deixa a la meitat del parc nacional. De camí la barca s'atura per veure un grup de foques jugant a les roques, per mi ja ha valgut la pena venir aquí. Caminem pel parc nacional tot el dia, és preciós, de cala en cala com el camí de ronda però amb la selva entremig, fins arribar al refugi on dormim. L'endemà continuem la caminata fins a l'entrada del parc on teniem el cotxe. <br />
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<br />Ara que som 4 és molt complicat fer couchsurfing perquè normalment allotgen a una o dues persones, així que anem d'hostals. Ens dirigim a la costa oest on visitem les pankake rocks, unes roques a vora del mar que semblen pankakes apilats. Els trasllats amb cotxe són visites en si mateixes ja que passes per paratges increibles on has de parar sovint per admirar les vistes. Aquella nit dormim a Haast, un poble diminut on no hi ha gairebé res, ni cobertura, però tenen una increïble platja solitària on anem a veure la posta de sol i, com que estem a l'oest, el sol es pon al mar. <br /><br />En dues hores passem de la platja als glaciars, això és una passada aquí, pots canviar radicalment de paisatge en molt poc temps. Ens diuen que hi ha una excursió que és molt maca per arribar a un mirador davant del glaciar Franz Josef però que no està gaire ben marcada. No sé a que es refereixen perquè estava perfectament marcada, com tots els camins aquí a Nova Zelanda, estan impecables, passem per varis ponts penjants i creuem varis rius fins arribar a un mirador davant del glaciar. <br /><br />L'endemà anem a un altre glaciar i anem a dormir a Wanaka, un poble davant d'un llac espectacular envoltat de montanyes nevades. Decidim quedar-nos varies nits aquí per digerir tanta bellesa paisatgística. Pugem el Roy's peak, una muntanya des de la qual encara tens millors vistes, anem a un pub que feien micro obert, a un cine molt autèntic amb sofàs i cadires de dentista, i fem un circuit super divertit pel bosc amb bici de muntanya.<br />
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<br />Continuem la ruta de muntanya fins a Queenstown, un altre poble a vora d'un llac i envoltat de muntanyes on també fem una excursió i aprofitem per sortir de festa ja que és dissabte i el lloc és conegut per la festa. Volem fer un tros de la ruta Routeburn així que anem fins a Kinloch i com que no para de ploure decidim estar a un hostal i fer un troç de la ruta l'endemà. Vam anar a parar a el millor hostal per estar un dia de pluja, menjador amb vistes al llac, foc, bon internet, pel·lícules, crispetes gratis i un jacuzzi exterior. Al final del dia ja no plovia, així que vaig aprofitar per anar a còrrer per la vora del llac. <br /><br />L'endemà ens despertem i ens trobem una sorpresa, estava tot nevat! Preguntem i ens diuen que podem fer l'excursió igualment, així que anem cap allà. La carretera estava força neta de neu fins a l'inici de l'excursió, però tot el camí estaba replet de neu que formava un paisatge preciós. Passem pel bosc, varis pons penjants, no parava de nevar i alguns arbres es comencen a trencar pel pes de la neu, així que decidim fer mitja volta. Al final no feia gaire gràcia els arbres que queien perquè era perillós, però afortunadament arribem al cotxe. De tornada hi havia un arbre a la carretera, frena i el cotxe rellisca per la neu fins el costat de la carretera. Dues rodes estaven al fang de la cuneta i no hi havia manera de treure'l d'allà, no tenim cobertura i els altres cotxes que haviem vist es quedaven a dormir al refugi així que no tornarien fins l'endemà. Decidim començar a caminar fins a tenir cobertura, a males l'hostal on haviem dormit estava a 16km. Portem una hora caminant i trobem una camioneta amb una parella que ens diu que ens pot ajudar, ens carrega i anem fins on tenim el cotxe. Posen una cadena i a remolcar el cotxe que comença a sortir del fang però la camioneta comença a patinar i també acaba a la cuneta. No m'ho podia creure! Fent maniobres aconsegueix treure la camioneta de la cuneta. Així que a la tercera va la vençuda, provem una estratègia diferent i sembla que funciona, perfí aconsegueix treure el cotxe de la cuneta!! Una estona més tard estavem banyant-nos al jacuzzi exterior amb vistes a les muntanyes nevades, refent-nos del fred i rient de la mala estona que haviem passat.<br />
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[ENGLISH]<br />There's a backpackers in New Zealand facebook page where I saw a post from a dutch girl, Sophia, that was looking for travel mates in the south island, so I wrote her. We agreed on the dates and she also agreed with an austrian girl, Petra, and a german, Merle, that wanted to buy a car. We were 4 travel mates, all travelling on our own, and a car, so we could start the adventure in the south island! <br /><br />I wake up really early in the house that I was hosted in Wellington and one of the guys that was living there took me to the station where I had to meet Petra and we went together to the harbour to catch the ferry for crossing from the north to the south island. When we arrived, Merle picked us up with the car and we went to Nelson where we met Sophia. We were the 4 together and we started talking about travel plans, stories and, in general, knowing each other. I've been so lucky because the three of them are really nice people, we have different personalities but I have the feeling that we will get along so well. <br /><br />On the following day we started the trip, Nelson is the gate for visiting the Abel Tasman National Park. We drove to the entrance of the park where we took a water taxi, a boat that left us in the middle of the national park. On the way, the boat was stopping to see a group of seals playing in the rocks, for me it was already worth it coming here. We walked the whole day, it's really beautiful, from beach to beach with the rainforest in between, until we reached the hut where we sleep. The folowing day we continued the trekking to the entrance of the park where we had the car. <br /><br />Now that we are 4 people, it is more complicated doing couchsurfing, so we go to hostels. We are going to the west coast where we visit the pankake rocks, some rocks next to the sea that they seem piled pankakes. The journeys by car are visits themselves because you drive by incredible places where you need to stop all the time to admire the sights. That night we slept in Haast, a tiny town where there's almost nothing, not even signal, but they have an incredible lonely beach where we went to see the sunset and, due to we are in the west, the sun sets in the sea. <br /><br />In two hours we passed from the beach to the glaciers, that's really amazing here, you can completely change the landscape in a really short time. They told us there's a really nice excursion to reach a viewpoint in front of the glacier Franz Josef, but it's not so well indicated. I don't know what they are talking about because it was perfectly indicated, like all the tracks in New Zealand. We pass by several swing bridges and rivers until we reached the nice viewpoint to the glacier. <br /><br />On the following day we went to Fox glacier and we slept in Wanaka, a town in front of a wonderful lake and snowed mountains. We decided staying some nights here to digest so many beautiful landscapes. We climbed up the Roy's peak, a mountain from which you have even better views, we went to an open mic pub, a really authentic cinema with sofas and dentist chairs, and we did a super funny circuit in the forest by mountain bike. <br /><br />We continued the mountain road to Queenstown, another town next to a lake surounded by mountains where we also did an excursion and we took the advantage of partying because it was Saturday and the place is well known for the parties. We want to do a part of Routeburn track so we went to a town next to it, Kinloch. It didn't stop raining so we decided staying in a hostel there and doing it the day after. We stayed in the best hostel for a rainy day, livingroom with views to the lake, fire, good internet, movies, free pop corn and an outdoor hot tub. At the end of the day it wasn't raining anymore so I went running next to the lake. <br /><br />On the next day, we wake up and we find a surprise, it was all covered by snow! We asked and they told us we can do the excursion anyway so we went there. The road was quite clean of snow besides the last part, but all the walking path was full of snow which made a beautiful landscape. We went through the forest, several swing bridges, it didn't stop snowing and some trees started to break for the weight of the snow, so we decided coming back. At the end, it wasn't so funny seeing the falling trees because it was dangerous, but luckily we arrived at the car. On the way back there was a tree on the road, we breaked and the car slipped in the snow to the side of the road. The two side wheels were on the mud and there was no way to take the car out from there, we didn't have signal and the people of the other cars that we saw would sleep in the hut, so they wouldn't go back until the following day. We decided to walk until we would have signal, on the worst case the hostel we slept last night was 16km away. We've been walking for one hour and finally we find a kind of pick up with a kiwi couple that could help up, so they give us a lift back ot the car. They put a chain and pulled the car that starts to go out from the mud, but the pick up also slips and it ends also on the side of the road. I can't believe it! Trying it harder, they can take the pick up out from the side of the road. So they try a third time, but with a different strategy and it seems that it works, finally take the car out! Some time later we were taking a bath in the outdoor hot tub with views to the snowed mountains, recovering the body heat and laughing about the bad time we had.Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-12272121891805695132017-09-10T05:48:00.001-07:002017-09-10T05:48:47.919-07:00Kiwilandia part 2 (New Zealand)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Els nova zelandesos s'anomenen a ells mateixos kiwis ja que aquí hi han molts kiwis, la fruita, i l'animal nacional també s'anomena kiwi. Veus simbols per tot arreu de vigila que no atropellis un kiwi o si deixes el teu gos suelto podria matar un kiwi. La veritat és que és molt difícil veure'n en llibertat, doncs és un animal nocturn, com un ocell, força gros i carnós, però que camina a poc a poc i no vola, és a dir, ideal perquè qualsevol depredador es foti un bon tiberi.<br /><br />Continuem el viatge per l'illa nord cap a la península de Coromandel amb la Melissa l'anglesa i la nova incorporació la Lea d'Alemania. Veig moltes platges precioses però l'aigua està massa freda per banyar-me ja que és hivern, però m'han dit que hi ha una platja que té aigua calenta (hot water beach) així que un dia després d'una caminata anem a veure què és això. Arribem a la platja en qüestió, cabem un forat a la sorra com una piscineta i l'aigua que surt està cremant, tant és així que gairebé no m'hi puc posar. Llavors una dona local em deixa un cubell i em diu que hi posi aigua freda del mar per baixar la temperatura. Tota una experiència i al final em pego un bany a l'aigua freda del mar. <br /><br />Nova Zelanda és coneguda per haver estat el plató de moltes escenes del senyor dels anells (entre d'altres) així que no podia faltar la visita a hobbiton, el lloc on van rodar les escenes del poble dels hobbits. Al cine res és el que sembla, doncs per mostra hi ha un dels arbres que apareix de fons a sobre de la casa del Bilbo Bolson que és artificial i van pintar totes les fulles una a una, o hi ha la mateixa porta de diferents tamanys per simular que els hobbits son més petits que la resta de persones encara que els actors no ho siguin.<br />
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<br />Arribem a Rotorua, una zona d'activitat volcànica on hi han gueisers, vapor sortint de la terra o dels llacs, olor a sulfur i aigües de color verd. Si em traslladès al pirineu amb la imatge d'aquest lloc pensaria que hi ha tot d'incendis al bosc, però tansols és vapor de l'activitat geotèrmica. Aquí vam conèixer a un noi alemà, el Denis, que es va apuntar un parell de dies a visitar la zona amb nosaltres. Vam anar a banyar-nos a un riu amb una petita cascada on l'aigua estava calenta. <br /><br />La Gaelle i el Julio, dos dels companys de pis de Barcelona van marxar a viure a Nova Zelanda quan jo també vaig deixar el pis, així que em van trucar perquè tenien tres dies de vacances i que em venien a veure, així que vam quedar que ens veuriem a Taupo. De camí a Taupo vam parar a visitar unes cascades i mentres estava fent fotos algú em tapa els ulls per darrera, era la Gaelle!! Encara no havia arribat a la ciutat on ens haviem de trobar i ja haviem coincidit. Vam cuinar truita de patates, un vinet i vam jugar al catan (un joc de taula que soliem jugar al pis). L'endemà vam fer una excursió per vora del llac de Taupo i a la nit ja van marxar. Em va fer molta ilusió veure'ls.<br />
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<br />D'aquí vam anar cap a l'est, a Napier, una ciutat amb edificis art deco que va sofrir un terratrèmol molt fort fa uns anys. La veritat és que aquí les ciutats no tenen gaire part històrica, doncs les primeres persones van arribar aqui sobre el segle 13, és a dir, que la catedral de la Seu és més antiga que qualsevol edifici de Nova Zelanda. Anem a Gisborn on ens allotja el Rori, un kiwi molt simpàtic que ens tracta super bé i ens presenta els seus amics. Resulta que estaven preparant el rodatge d'un curt per un festival de cine de Nova Zelanda, aquell divendres al vespre rebrien la temàtica del curt i tindrien 48 hores per presentar el curt. Vam colaborar gravant alguns sons per la introducció del curt i em van dir que em quedés el cap de setmana per fer d'actor al curt. Hagués estat genial però anavem curts de temps, així que l'endemà vam fer milles cap a Wellington, la capital.<br />
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<br />Un cop arribem a la capital ens vam separar amb les noies, la Melissa tornava al nord a treballar i la Lea començaria a fer d'au pair. Jo me'n vaig anar a casa del Conrad, l'Adam i el Shaun, tres kiwis que em van acollir a una casa enorme al sud de la ciutat. Va ser arribar i vaig conéixer a un munt de gent, alguns d'ells eren gent que havien acollit i s'havien quedat a viure a la casa i d'altres que estaven pocs dies com jo. Poc després d'arribar estava amb una birra a la mà jugant a jocs de beure i passant-ho de conya. Aquesta casa era com una gran familia i em vaig sentir super a gust allà. <br /><br />Un dia volia fer una excursió i els de la casa em van dir que podia anar per la montanya de vora de la casa fins a la platja i si continuava una bona estona probablement podria veure foques. Així que no m'ho vaig pensar i vaig anar cap allà, després de dos hores caminant veig una foca a les roques, vaig alucinar, m'hi vaig fixar millor i vaig començar a veure més foques. N'hi havien com 50, però com que estan fent la marmota i son del mateix color que les pedres no les veus de primeres. Van arribar uns nois que vaig conéixer i un d'ells es va posar a tocar la guitarra, va ser una excursió increïble, em vaig quedar més de dues hores observant les foques. Al arribar a casa, vaig sopar amb la gent i vam decidir agafar vi per anar a veure les estrelles a la cima de la montanya de vora la casa, aquesta va ser la meva última nit a l'illa nord, quina despedida!<br />
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<br />[ENGLISH]<br />The people from New Zealand call themselves kiwis because there are many kiwi fruits here and the national animal is also called kiwi. You can see signs everywhere warning not to drive on a kiwi or your dog can kill a kiwi. The truth is that it is so difficult seeing one in freedom, due to is a nightly animal, like a bird, quite big and fat, but it walks slowly and it doesn't fly, in other words, it's ideal for any predator to have a good meal. <br /><br />We continue the trip in the north island towards Coromandel peninsula with Melissa the british and the new mate Lea from Germany. I'm seeing many beautiful beaches but the water is too cold to swim because it's winter. I've been told that there's the hot water beach, so one day after a hike we went to see what's that. We arrived to this beach, we digged a hole in the sand, like a small pool, and the water that pops up is burning that much that I can't stay inside. Then a local woman borrowed me a bucked and told me that I should mix it with cold water from the sea to lower down the temperature. Such an experience and at the end I swam in the cold water of the sea. <br /><br />New Zealand is well known for being the scenery of many movies of lord of the rings (among others), so I couldn't skip the visit to hobbiton, the place where they filmed the scenes in the town of the hobbits. In cinema almost nothing is real, like the tree on top of Bilbo's house that is artificial and they painted all the leaves one by one, or the same door is in different sizes to simulate that the hobbits are smaller than the rest of the people even the actors are not. <br /><br />We arrive in Rotorua, an area with volcanic activity where there are geysers, steam going out from the ground or the lakes, smell of sulphur and green water. If I would locate myself in the pyrenees with the image of this place I'd think that there's fire in the forest, but it's only the steam of the geothermal activity. Here we met a german guy, Denis, who joined us for a couple of days to visit the area. We went for a bath in a river with a small waterfall where the water was worm. <br /><br />Gaelle and Julio, two of my flatmates in Barcelona went to live in New Zealand at the same time I left the flat to go travelling. They phoned me because they had three days of holidays and they'd like to meet, so we agreed to meet in Taupo. On the way to Taupo, we stopped in some waterfalls and, while I was taking some photos, someone covered my eyes from the back, it was Gaelle!! I still hadn't arrived to the city where we were supposed to meet and we had met already. We cooked spanish omelette, some wine and we played catan (a game that we used to play in the flat). On the following day, we did a excursion next to the Taupo lake and they left at night. I was really happy of seeing them. <br /><br />We went towards the east, Napier, a city with buildings art deco that suffered a terrible earthquake some years ago. The cities here don't have so much historical part because the first people arrived here on the 13th century. In other words, the cathedral of my town is much older than any building of New Zealand. After that we went to Gisborn where Rori hosted us, a really kind kiwi that treated us so well and introduced us to his friends. They were preparing the recording of a short film for a cinema festival of New Zealand, on Friday they'd receive the topic of the short film and they'd have 48 hours to submit it. We helped them recording some sounds for the introduction of the short film and they told me if I'd like to stay over the weekend to act in the short film aswell. It would have been great but we didn't have much time, so the next day we went to Wellington, the capital. <br /><br />Once we arrived in Wellington we split with the girls, Melissa was going back to the north to work and Lea would start working as au pair. I went to the home of Conrad, Adam and Shaun, three kiwis that hosted me in their huge house on the south of the city. From the moment I arrived I met many people, some of them were people that had been hosted and they've stayed living in the house and others were staying a few days like me. A few minutes I had a beer on my hand and I was enjoying a lot playing drinking games. This house was like a big family and I felt so well there. <br /><br />One day I wanted to do an excursion and the people from the house told me I could go through the mountain nearby to the beach and if I would continue for a long time probably I would see seals. I didn't think about it two times and I went there, after two hours walking I saw a seal in the rocks, I couldn't believe it, I looked deeper and I saw more seals. There were around 50, but due to the fact that they are lazy and they are of the same color than the stones, you don't see them at the beginning. I met some guys and one of them started playing the guitar. It was such an incredible excursion, I stayed more than 2 hours observing the seals. When I arrived home, I had dinner with the people from the house and we decided to take some wine and go to top of the mountains nearby to see the stars. This was my last night in the north island, such a farewell! Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-12523902983811121532017-08-30T03:31:00.003-07:002017-08-30T03:31:45.655-07:00Kiwilandia (New Zealand)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Després de tot el percal amb els vols ja no sabia que esperar-me al arribar a Nova Zelanda i l'únic que em va dir la de migracions és si ja tenia el ferry per creuar a la illa sud, vaig respondre que no amb temor que encara em diria alguna cosa, i em diu que m'aconsella que ho reservi amb temps perquè s'emplenen i que disfruti Nova Zelanda. <br /><br />Em passejo pels carrers de Auckland i no paro de comparar les diferències amb el que he viscut fins ara. Miro a la gent i tots son rossos i blancs, asiàtics o de pell morena (Maoris, la població originària). Estic enviant audios amb el mòbil sense preocupar-me de la seguretat i no miro a terra sense por de xafar una merda de gos o trencar-me la cama per culpa d'un forat a terra. Cada vegada que pago alguna cosa, encara que siguin uns cacahuets, pregunto si puc pagar amb targeta al que responen "of course" (per suposat) i al supermercat no hi ha gairebé ningú que et cobri, t'ho cobres tu mateix. <br /><br />He trobat per internet a una noia anglesa, la Melissa, que s'ha comprat un 4x4 i vol fer un viatge cap al nord, així que quedem per trobar-nos la mateixa nit per parlar-ho. Ens posem d'acord i en un parell de dies marxem cap al nord amb un altre noi anglès, l'Alex. Anem rumb al nord i comencem a buscar allotjament fins que trobo a una parella gran per airBnB, la Carolyn i el John. Ells estaven contentíssims de tenir companyia un divendres per la nit així que ens obren les portes de la seva fantàstica casa. Vam alucinar, la Carolyn va posar uns pastissos de marisc al forn, va obrir una botella vi, i allà estavem parlant a vora del foc, jugant amb els gossos, sopant i menjant brownies acabats de fer. El John ens va ensenyar la colecció d'avionetes que tenien i ens tractaven com els seus nèts. Era tard i ens van dir que si ens venia de gust tenien un jacuzzi exterior, es pot demanar alguna cosa més? No ens ho vam pensar i al cap d'una estona estavem al jacuzzi mirant les estrelles i un halo gegant que envoltava la lluna, quina rebuda! Al dia següent m'anava a preparar un cafè instantani per esmorzar i la Carolyn no em va deixar, va moldre cafè, em va preparar un cafè deliciós i vam anar tots a donar una volta per conéixer el poble.<br />
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<br />És hora de continuar el viatge i anem cap a Whangarei, de camí parem a unes cascades i fem una excursió a una montanyeta. Lo bo d'anar amb cotxe és que et pots parar cada dos per tres, i això a Nova Zelanda és imprescindible, tens fotos de postal a cada cantonada. Avui passem la nit a casa la Cathy, una noia d'aquí que he trobat per couchsurfing i ens allotja a casa seva. Ella se'n va a viatjar per Europa en un mes així que li recomano un munt de llocs. L'endemà ens porta a fer una caminata a una montanya on hi han unes vistes impressionants. <br /><br />Continuem més al nord a on hi han les Bay islands, allà ens allotja el Josh, un informàtic d'aquí (kiwi) que gairebé no podia estar amb nosaltres perquè li tocaba cuidar una casa per les nits, així que ens dóna la clau de casa seva i ens diu que fem com a casa nostra. A l'Alex l'informen que començarà abans que s'esperava a fer un voluntariat a un vaixell per investigar balenes, dofins i foques, així que abandona el barco. <br /><br />Ens dirigim la Melissa i jo cap a casa del Shane, un caçador i apicultor que viu a una casa que s'ha construit ell mateix al mig de la montanya. Ara mateix té 200 panells d'abelles, així que com que no pot viatjar ha decidir convidar a viatgers a casa seva. Vam estar a la gloria a casa seva. Al dia següent pel matí plovia així que va decidir fer cervesa artesanal i el vaig ajudar per aprendre'n. Ah, me n'oblidava, a la pica de fregar els plats tenia un parell de sortidors de cervesa i l'aixeta de l'aigua, vaja que a vegades t'anaves a posar un got d'aigua i acabaves fotente una birra. Al sortidor tenia una cervesa basada en la chouffe, una de les meves belgues preferides. Vam compartir conversacions super interessants fins a les tantes cada dia, li vam cuinar el sopar un parell de dies i l'últim dia va preparar-nos un super sopar amb verdures, tubèrculs i una vedella boníssima rostida. Per acabar-ho de rematar em també tenia un jacuzzi exterior així que em vaig fer un bon bany una de les nits. Un dels dies vam anar fins al punt més al nord de Nova Zelanda, Cape Reinga, un lloc preciós amb un far on vam veure una posta de sol espectacular.<br />
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<br />Diuen que la gespa és més verda a casa del veí, no sé si és veritat però almenys aquí és la gespa amb el verd més intens que he vist. L'ecosistema de Nova Zelanda és molt delicat i portar restes de plantes d'un altre país a les botes pot matar espècies endèmiques. Tot està super protegit i s'ho prenen molt en serio per no destruir el que els queda. Fa anys algú va portar conills i opòssums aquí i ara tenen una plaga que els ha matat un munt d'espècies locals, així que està permès matar-los. Vam aturar-nos al kauri tree park on hi ha uns dels arbres kauri més grans de Nova Zelanda, al entrar i al sortir del bosc havíem de netejar-nos les botes per no introduir res que pogués afectar al entorn. <br /><br />No havíem buscat allotjament per aquella nit, així que pregunto a una parella gran a través de couchsurfing, el Hugh i la Sarah, si ens poden allotjar d'ultim moment. Ells encantadíssims ens obren les portes de la seva granja on tenien cavalls, perquè passem la nit. L'endemà vam esmorzar amb el Hugh i vam parlar una bona estona.<br />
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Anem cap a Auckland de nou a recollir a la Lea, una noia alemana que s'apunta a continuar el viatge per la resta de l'illa nord. La meva intenció inicial era quedar-me un mes a Nova Zelanda, a dia d'avui porto 10 dies i només he estat a northland, la punta nord de l'illa nord, una zona que no vaig saber que existia fins pocs dies abans de venir. Ara em queda la resta de l'illa nord i la sud, que m'han dit que encara és més maca que la nord. Ja veig que em quedaré més temps del que pensava... I si, ha valgut la pena tot el percal amb els vols! <br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />After all the mess with the flights I didn't know what to expect arriving in New Zealand. The only thing that the woman from migrations told me was if I already had the ferry to cross to the south island, I answered no with fear that she would tell me something. She told me I should book it in advance because the get full and enjoy New Zealand. <br /><br />I am walking around the streets in Auckland and I can't stop comparing the differences with what I've been living until now. I look at the people and all are blond and white skin, asiatics or brown skin (Maoris, the indigenous people). I'm sending audio messages with the cell phone without caring for the security and I don't look on the floor without taking care of stepping on a dog's shit or breaking my leg for a hole on the floor. Everytime I pay something, even if it's peanuts, I ask if I can pay by card and they answer "of course" and in the supermarket there's almost nobody in the cash, you do it yourself. <br /><br />I've met on the internet a british girl, Melissa, that has bought a 4 wheels car and wants to do a trip in the northland, so we agree on meeting the same night to talk about it. We agree on the plan and in a couple of days we head north with another british guy aswell, Alex. We head north and start looking for acommodation until I find an old couple in airBnb, Carolyn and John. They were so happy for having company this Friday night, so they welcome us in their wonderful house. We were amazed, Carolyn put some seafood cakes in the oven, opened a bottle of wine, and we were there talking next to the fire, playing with the dogs, having dinner and eating brownies. John showed us a collection of small planes he made and they were treating us like their grandchildren. It was late and they told us that if we wanted they had an outdoor hot tub, what else could we ask for? We didn't think about it and in a short time we were inside the hot tub looking to the stars and to a giant moon halo. Such a welcome! On the following morning, I wanted to prepare an instant coffee for breakfast and Carolyn didn't allow me, she grinded coffee beans, prepared a delicious coffee and we went for a walk all together to know the town. <br /><br />It's time to continue the trip to Whangarei, on the way we stopped in some waterfalls and we did a trekking in a mountain. The good thing of going by car is that you can stop every now and then, and this in New Zealand is so important. You can have postcard's photos on every corner. Tonight we will spend the night at Cathy's home, a woman from here that I've found in couchsurfing. She will go to travel in Europe in a month so I recommended her many places. The next day she took us to a walk in a mountain with amazing views. <br /><br />We continue towards the north where the Bay islands are. There we are hosted by Josh, an IT guy from here (kiwi) that almost couldn't be with us because he was doing house sitting at night, so he gave us the key of his home and told us to feel like at home. They inform Alex that he will start sooner than he was expecting to do a volunteering in a boat to research for whales, dolphins and seals, so he abandons the trip.<br /><br />Melissa and I went to Shane's home, a hunter and bee keeper who lives in a selfmade house in the middle of the mountain. Currently, he has 200 hives, and due to the fact that he can't travel, he has decided inviting travellers to his home. We stayed like in heaven in his home. The next morning was raining, so we decided doing artisanal beer and I helped him to learn. Ah, I almost forgot, in the sink he had to taps for beer and the water tap. Sometimes you were going to take a glass of waterand you ended up with a beer. In the beer tap he hada beer similar to chouffe, on of my favourite belgian beers. We shared really interesting conversations everyday until late at night. We cooked for him a couple of days and the last day he prepared an amazing dinner with vegetables and a delicious roasted beef. To finish even better, he also had an outdoor hot tub, so I took a bath one of the nights. One of the days we went to the northest point of New Zealand, Cape Reinga, a gorgeous place with a lighthouse where we saw an amazing sunset. <br /><br />People say that the grass is greener in neighbourg's home, I don't know if it's true but at least in New Zealand is the most intense green I've ever seen. The ecosystem of New Zealand is very delicate and wearing leftovers of plants from another country in the boots could kill endemic species. Everything is really protected and they are so strict in that in order not to destroy what still remains here. Some years ago someone brought rabbits and possoms here and now they have such a plague that has killed many local species, so you're allowed to kill them. We stopped by the Kauri tree park where there are the biggest Kauri trees in New Zealand. When we entered and went out of the forest, we had to clean the boots in order not to introduce anything that could affect the environment. <br /><br />We hadn't looked for accomodation for that night, so I ask to an old couple though couchsurfing, Hugh and Sarah, if they could host us. They were so happy to host us in their farm where they had horses. The following day, we had breakfast with Hugh and we talked for a long time. <br /><br />We are going back to Auckland to pick up Lea, a german girl that will join us to continue the trip in the rest of the north island. My initial plan was staying in New Zealand for a month, currently I've been 10 days and I've only been in the northland, the northest part of the north island, an area that I didn't know it existed until some days before coming. Now I want to do the rest of the north island and the south one, that they've told me it's even more beautiful than the north one. I'm already seeing that I'll stay longer than I thought... And yes, it's worth it all the mess with the flights! <br />Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-33370268322060450092017-08-14T04:01:00.002-07:002017-08-14T04:01:53.975-07:00Chile rumb a New Zealand / Chile on the way to New Zealand<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Creuo els andes desde Mendoza per arribar a Viña del Mar tres dies més tard del que esperava ja que la frontera estava tancada primer per neu, després perquè no funcionava el sistema de migracions i finalment perquè se'ls havia congelat l'aigua. En fi, ja ens vam cagar en tot amb una tele local que ens va entrevistar entre tot el caos de la gent que portava varis dies a l'estació, jo per sort vaig aprofitar per fer amics i conèixer Mendoza una mica més. <br /><br />A Viña del Mar m'allotja el Seba, un noi chileno molt amable. Vam anar a fer sandboard a unes dunes d'allà, vam visitar Viña i Valparaiso, vam probar la gastronomia local i vam sortir de festa, on em vaig trobar a un americà, un dels amics que vaig fer a l'estació de Mendoza.<br />
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<br />Valparaiso em va enamorar, és una ciutat on podria viure un temps, així que decideixo quedar-me algun dia més a un hostal d'allà. Cada dia descobria una part de la ciutat, és com un museu a l'aire lliure on tens grafittis impressionants per tot arreu als diferents turons de la ciutat i amb el port sempre abaix. Vaig conéixer al David, un noi d'Eivissa que és clown i ha vingut a actuar a un festival de clown a Chile. Al dia següent em diu que l'han convidat a una variete de circ i si em ve de gust anar-hi. Una estona més tard allà estàvem, a la carpa blava veient circ. Al acabar l'espectacle ens van convidar a menjar empanades a una cuina de vora la carpa on vam conéixer els artistes. Aquella escena em va recordar a un espectacle que es deia cocina pública que vaig veure a la fira del teatre de Tàrrega, el grup que la representava es deia teatro container i era de Valparaiso. Bàsicament consistia en un menjar popular on la gent podia recitar poesia o discursos, tocar música, beure i menjar, i tot sortia d'una cuina ubicada dins d'un container de càrrega de vaixell. Ara entenia el perquè del container, doncs a Valparaiso està ple de containers de vaixell al port. Amb aquestes que una noia em diu que ella havia estat treballant amb els teatro container, jejejeje, sempre em passen aquestes coses. Després anem cap al desé aniversari del teatro museo a veure un espectacle i fer festa per celebrar-ho. Va ser una nit molt divertida! <br />
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<br />Al dia següent vaig a la isla negra, una de les cases de Pablo Neruda, on em capbusso a la seva historia. Em va sorprendre especialment el fet del Winnipeg, és el vaixell amb el qual Pablo Neruda va ajudar a més de 2000 refugiats republicans, la gran majoria catalans, a exiliar-se a Chile. Allà vaig conéixer a l'Alexander, un alemà ocupa que construeix vaixells i havia vingut al sud de Chile a aprendre l'ofici. Eren interessantíssimes totes les conversacions que vam tenir, així que a la tornada vam anar al seu hostal a cuinar el sopar i es va acabar montant una festa a l'hostal. <br /><br />L'Alexander em va recomanar anar a una zona de montanyes 10 hores més al sud, Curacautin, així que cap allà em vaig dirigir. Aquesta zona no és gaire turística així que no hi ha transport públic per anar als parcs nacionals de la zona. Vaig tenir sort de conèixer a una parella francesa a l'hostal que tenien cotxe i volien anar al parc nacional Conguillio, així que vam llogar raquetes de neu i vam anar a fer una excursió tot el dia. El dia següent volia anar a fer una caminata per un altre parc nacional on hi ha un volca nevat, el Lonquimai, així que vaig agafar un bus que em va deixar a l'encreuament i d'allà vaig fer autoestop. Aquí a Chile és alucinant, aixeques el dit i paren de seguida, fins i tot varies vegades m'han parat sense estar fent dit i em diuen que em porten. De tornada no vaig ni haver d'agafar el bus doncs una familia em va portar fins a la porta de l'hostal i em deien que anes amb ells fins a Valdivia, 5 hores més al sud, que em podia quedar a casa seva. <br /><br />El meu pla inicial era anar uns 5 dies a Santiago, però tot això és tant bonic que vaig escurçant l'estada a la capital. Arribo a Pucón, un poble a la ribera d'un llac i al costat del Villarrica, el volcà més actiu de sudamèrica. Vaig conèixer a gent molt maca allà amb la que vaig fer una excursió a una cascada, vaig fer hydrospeed pel riu amb un instructor que també fa d'instructor a Sort i vaig pujar el Villarrica. És impressionant pujar al volcà totalment nevat, arribar al cràter i veure lava. Fins i tot haviem de portar màscares de gas perquè al girar el vent no podies respirar amb el fum de sulfur.<br />
Ja nomès em queda 1 nit a Xile així que vaig cap a Santiago. La ciutat em va agradar força i vaig aprofitar per quedar amb la Inge, una xilena que vaig conéixer a Belize, que em va portar a menjar peix a un mercat i a conéixer la ciutat. <br />
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<br /> És hora de fer un canvi radical i anar cap a Nova Zelanda. Aquesta nit tinc el vol així que em poso a fer el checkin però no puc, que extrany. Vaig a buscar l'email de confirmació i m'adono que el vol era la nit passada. No m'ho puc creure!! Miro el google calendar, que et posa els vols que reps a l'email automàticament a l'agenda, i em posa que tinc el vol aquesta nit, és a dir que ha estat un error de google. He estat agafant un munt de vols els darrers anys i em fiava 100% del google calendar perquè no m'havia fallat mai. Agafo la motxilla i me'n vaig de cap a l'aeroport a buscar solucions, la millor opció és pagar 900€ per un nou vol i demanar el reembols del que havia perdut pagant una multa, és a dir que en total perdo uns 500€. Quin remei, pago el vol, però aquí no acaba la odissea. Quan vaig a facturar em diuen que necessito un vol de tornada, jo havia llegit que demostrant que podia pagar un vol de sortida del pais era suficient, i ja tenia el comprovant del banc, però de cap manera em deixaven embarcar, així que un dels responsables que resulta que havia visitat Andorra i el mercat de la Seu, em va aconseguir un vol de tornada que podia cancelar al cap de 2 dies i em retornaven l'import menys 40€. Per un moment vaig estar a punt de dir, a la merda Nova Zelanda i em quedo a llatinoamèrica. <br /><br />En fi, ja estic rumb a Nova Zelanda, amb un sentiment de que s'acaba una part del viatge increible. Llatinoamèrica, la seva gent i els viatgers que hi he conegut m'han ensenyat un munt de coses i m'han fet reflexionar molt. He viscut cada dia molt intensament i cada vivència m'ha provocat un canvi intern que em constitueix com la persona que soc ara. L'experiència ha estat totalment diferent a fa 6 anys, doncs no soc el mateix i veig les coses de manera diferent. De totes maneres, m'he deixat a propòsit un munt de coses per veure així com coses que m'agradaria repetir uns anys més endavant. Estic molt emocionat pel que m'espera a continuació encara que ja extranyo llatinoamèrica. <br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />I'm crossing the Andes from Mendoza to arrive to Viña del Mar three days later than I was expecting because the border was closed first due to the snow, then because the migration system wasn't working and finally because the water was frozen. Well, we already complained to a local TV that interviewed us between the chaos of people that had been for several days in the station. In the meantime, I took the advantage of making friend and know Mendoza a bit more. <br /><br />In Viña del Mar, Seba hosted me, a very kind chilean guy. We did sandboard in some dunes, we visited Viña and Valparaiso, tried the local food and partied, where I met an american guy, one of the friends I did in Mendoza's station. <br /><br />I fell in love with Valparaiso, is a city where I could live in for some time, so I decided staying there some days more in a hostel. Everyday I was discovering a part of the city, it's like an open-air museum where you have amazing grafittis all over the hills of the city with the harbour on the bottom of the hills. I met David, a guy from Ibiza who is a clown and has come to act in a festival in Chile. On the following day, he told me that they've invited him to a circus' "varieté", so a bit later we were seeing circus in the blue tent. At the end of the show they invited us to eat "empanadas" in a kitchen next to the tent where we met the artists. That scene reminded me to a show called public kitchen that I saw in the theatre's fair of Tarrega. The group that were performing it was called container theatre and was from Valparaiso. Basically, it was about a popular meal where the people could say poetry o speeches, play music, drink and eat, and everything came out from a kitchen inside a cargo container from a ship. Now I understood why they had a cargo container, as Valparaiso is full of them in the harbour. One girl told me that she was working with this theatre group, hehehe, it always happens those thing to me. After that we went to the theatre museum to celebrate its 10th birthday. It was a really funny night. <br /><br />On the following day I went to the black island, one of the houses of Pablo Neruda, were I digged into his history. I was so surprised, specially with the Winnipel, a ship with which Pablo helped to more than 2000 republican refugees, most of them catalans, to exiliate to Chile. There I met Alexander, a german squad guy that build ships and came to the south of Chile to learn the job. We had such interesting conversations, so on the way back we went to his hostel to cook dinner and it turned out into a party in his hostel. <br /><br />Alexander recommended me going to a mountain area 10 hours south, Curacautin, so I went there. This area is not so turistic so there's not so much public transport to go to the national parks. I was lucky to meet a french couple in the hostel that they had a car and wanted to go to the national park Conguillio, so we rented snow raquets and we went to do an excursion the whole day. The following day I wanted to do a trek in another national park where there's a snowed volcano, Lonquimai, so I took a bus to the junction and I hichicked from there. Here in Chile is amazing, you raise your thumb and they immediately stop. Even sometimes they stom without raising the thumb and they ask if you want a lift. On the way back I didn't even have to take the bus because a family took me to the hostel and they told me if I wanted to go with them to Valdivia, 5 hours more south, that I could stay in their home. <br /><br />My initial plan was staying for 5 days in Santiago, but all this is so beautiful that I was everytime making shorter my stay in the capital. I arrive in Pucon, a town besides a lake next to Villarrica, the most active volcano in South America. I met really nice people there with who I did an excursion to a waterfall, I did hydrospeed and I climbed the Villarrica. It's impressive climbing a volcano completely covered by snow, arriving at its crater and seeing lava. Even we had to wear gas masks because when the wind was changing the direction you couldn't breath with the smoke of the sulfur. <br /><br />I only have one night left in Chile so it's time to go to Santiago. I quite liked the city and I took the advantage of meeting Inge, a chilean girl that I met in Belize. She took me to eat fish in a market and to know the city. It's time to do a radical change and go to New Zealand. Tonight I have the flight so I'm doing the checkin but I can't, it's so weird. I look for the confirmation email and I realize that the flight was last night. I can't believe it!! I look google calendar, which introduces automatically the flights to the agenda when you receive the email, and says that the flight is tonight, so it's an error of Google. I've been taking many flights the last years and I trusted google calendar 100% because it never failed. I took the backpack and I went straight to the airport looking for solutions. The best option is paying 900€ for a new flight and asking for the refund of the one I missed paying a fain, in other words I lose 500€. I don't have other options so I pay the flight, but this is not the end. When I went to do the checkin they told me that I need a return flight, I read that justifying that I could pay a flight to go out from the country was enough, and I had the proof from my bank, but they weren't allowing me to take the flight, so one of the managers that he had visited Andorra and my home town, he got a return flight that I could cancel afterwards and I got all the money back but 40€. For one moment I was about to say, fuck New Zealand and I stay in Latinamerica. <br /><br />Finally, I'm on my way to New Zealand, with a feeling that an incredible part of the trip has ended. Latinamerica, its people and the travelers I met have tought me so many things besides thinking a lot. I've lived everyday in a really intense way and every moment lived has caused me an internal change that it builds me as the person who I am now. The experience has been totally different to 6 years ago, so I'm not the same one and I see the things on a different way. Anyway, I've left on purpose so many things to visit as well as thing that I'd would like repeating in some years. I'm so excited for what's still waiting for me, although I already miss Latinamerica. <br />Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-77648056819407032322017-08-02T16:46:00.003-07:002017-08-02T16:46:48.765-07:00Argentina: Buenos Aires querido<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Argentina em causa un sentiment extrany que no havia tingut en tot el viatge, al ser el país més semblant al sud d'Europa. A nivell gastronòmic tens bona carn, oli d'oliva, vi, pasta, pizza i cafè expresso. Al nord la gent és més andina però a grans ciutats com Cordoba, Buenos Aires o Mendoza, la majoria de la població és blanca i criolla, fills d'espanyols o italians nascuts a Argentina, és a dir, que amb la boca tancada passo totalment desapercebut. Tenen 4 estacions ben marcades, a la majoria de països de llatinoamèrica més del nord només tenen estació seca i plujosa. L'arquitectura a ciutats com Buenos Aires deixa de ser colonial com a la major part de llatinoamèrica, per una arquitectura que emula l'espanyola, francesa, alemana o italiana. Per un costat, m'hi trobo molt bé, és com fer un "break" de llatinoamèrica i estar a un pais més europeu sense estar a Europa, i m'encanta descobrir com ha evolucionat un país amb tanta influència de casa nostra. Per l'altre, al ser una cultura més semblant i estar tot més "organitzat" em xoca menys el contrast i no em resulta tanta aventura com a la resta de països de llatinoamèrica. <br /><br />Començo a visitar Buenos Aires amb la cançó Buenos Aires del gallec <a href="https://youtu.be/vFkcoLV9eds" target="_blank">Xoel López</a> que he entès millor després de visitar la ciutat. Aquí m'allotja el Darío a travès de couchsurfing, és un argentí molt simpàtic, informàtic com jo i que li encanta fer mil activitats com a mi, entre elles teatre i cant. Ell m'obra les portes del seu piset, em dona la clau i fa tot el possible perquè hi estigui molt a gust. Encara queda un dia perquè arribin la Maria i el Jordi, així que aprofito per anar a còrrer, a veure una exposició i fer una mica de vida amb el Darío; cuinem junts, mirem una peli... <br /><br />Ja tornem a estar la familia unida, així que ens capbussem a la ciutat; passegem entre antiguitats al "rastro" de San Telmo, fem el free tour pel centre i la recoleta, entenem perquè hi ha tanta influència europea a la ciutat, indaguem al "thriller" de la vida de l'Evita Perón, veiem la font de canaletes (una rèplica) a la plaça Catalunya d'aquí, el barri de Boca, Puerto Maderos, entrem al Liceu d'aqui (l'impressionant teatre Colón), una milonga de tango com a "voyeurs" ja que hi havia molt nivell, el jardí japonès, una obra del "teatro por la identidad" i un concert d'acordionistes de tango. Tot això amanit amb menjars i beures, però vam fer un sopar encara més especial amb la familia que tenim a Argentina.<br />
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<br />Hi havia una vegada una filla de Banat (la casa de la familia que tenim a la muntanya) que es va enamorar d'un artista. Com que la relació no era molt ben vista a la època i eren molt humils, van decidir anar a fer les amèriques a Argentina. No els hi va sortir tant bé com s'esperaven i no s'acabaven d'adaptar així que van tornar a casa, es van casar, van viure a una casa d'Arseguel i van tenir fills. Un d'aquests fills va decidir seguir els passos dels seus pares i tornar a Argentina, aquí va formar família i es van establir a la província de Buenos Aires. L'Alicia és una filla d'aquest fill i amb la que vam quedar per sopar juntament amb el seu marit Ubaldo. <br /><br />No em puc creure que ja se'ls han acabat les vacances a la Maria i el Jordi i han de tornar, la veritat és que han estat uns dies increïbles que mai oblidaré, ha sigut un regal gegant compartir una part del viatge amb ells. La despedida em deixa una mica "xof" perquè em fa sentir al màxim com trobo a faltar la familia i els amics, i encara falta temps per la tornada. De totes maneres, aquests dies juntament amb la ilusió pel que queda de viatge m'han donat moltes forces per continuar. Tinc molt clar que faig aquest viatge plenament per la meva felicitat i que no li he de demostrar res a ningú, així que si algún dia no em compensa continuar amb el viatge, no tindria cap problema en tornar abans d'hora.<br /><br />Però no és el cas, així que agafo un bus rumb a Mendoza, terra de montanya i vi, on un altre noi de couchsurfing, el Leandro, em ve a buscar a l'estació i em dóna allotjament. He passat uns dies fantàstics a Mendoza ja que el Leandro m'ha portat a conèxer la ciutat, els seus amics, hem fet un asado i pizzes casolanes amb la seva familia. Una de les nits es va posar a nevar moltíssim i al despertar-nos l'endemà hi havia un pam de neu, voliem anar a la montanya però van tallar la carretera. Ha parat de nevar i s'ha fos la neu, així que marxo cap a Xile creuant els andes ja que a finals de mes tinc el vol desde Santiago de Xile fins a Nova Zelanda. <br />
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<br />[ENGLISH]<br />Argentina causes me a weird feeling that I hadn't had in all the trip, for being the most similar country to Europe. At a gastronomic level you have good meat, olive oil, wine, pasta, pizza and expresso coffee. In the north, the people is more andean but in big cities like Cordoba, Buenos Aires or Mendoza, most of the population is white and criol (sons of spanish and italian born in Argentina). In other words, with my mouth closed I am totally unnoticed. They have 4 seasons, in most of the northern latinamerican countries they only have dry and wet season. The architecture in cities like Buenos Aires is not colonial like most of the cities in Latinamerica, is emulating the spanish, french, german and italian one. On one side, I feel really well here, is like doing a "break" of latinamerica, being in a more european country without being in Europe and I love discovering how it has evolved a country with such an influence. On the other side, being a more similar culture to mine and being everything more "organized", I have less cultural shock and less adventure than the rest of latinamerican countries. <br /><br />I start visiting Buenos Aires with the song Buenos Aires of the galician <a href="https://youtu.be/vFkcoLV9eds" target="_blank">Xoel López,</a> that I've understood better after visiting the city. Here, Dario is hosting me through couchsurfing, is a really kind argentinian, computer engineer like me, who loves doing many activities like me, theatre and singing among them. He opens the door of his home, giving me the key and making all what's possible to make me feel comfortable. I still have one more day for Maria and Jordi to arrive, so I take the advantage and go running, see an exposition and share some time with Dario; cooking together, watching a film, etc. <br /><br />We are the family together again, so we deep dive in the city; walking between antiquities in the market of San Telmo, doing the free tour in the center and recoleta, understanding why there's so many european influence in the city, getting to know the "thriller" of Evita Peron's life, seeing the canaletes fountain (a copy) in the Catalonia square of here, the Boca's neighborhood, Puerto Maderos, entering the Liceu of here (the impressive Colon theatre), a tango milonga, the japanese garden, a theatre play of the theatre for the identity and a accordion's tango concert. All that mixed with meals and drinks, but we had a very special dinner with the family we have in Argentina. <br /><br />Once upon a time, a daughter of Banat (the family house that we have in the mountain) that fell in love with an artist. Due to the fact that the relationship wasn't accepted by that time and they werre really humble, they decided going to earn money to Argentina. They didn't succeed as much as they expected so they came back home, got married, lived in a house in Arseguel (a town close by) and had children. One of the sons followed the steps of his parents and went back to Argentina, had a family and settled down in the province of Buenos Aires. Alicia is one daughter of this son and is the one we met for dinner together with her husband Ubaldo. <br /><br />I can't believe that the holidays have finished for Maria and Jordi, and they have to go back home. Those days have been incredible and I'll never forget them, it has been such a huge present sharing a part of the trip with them. The farewell leaves me a bit down because it makes me feel how I miss my family and friends, although I still have time before I come back. Nevertheless, those days and the will for the remaining trip have given me strength for continuing. I'm completely sure that I'm doing this trip for the sake of my happiness and I don't need to demonstrate anything to anyone, so if any day I feel that the trip isn't worthy, I wouldn't have any problem coming back before the plan. <br /><br />But it's not the case, so I take a but to Mendoza, land of mountains and wine, where another guy from couchsurfing, Leandro, picks me up in the terminal and gives me accomodation. I've spent fantastic days in Mendoza because Leandro has taken me to know the city, his friends, we've done a barbacue (asado) and home made pizzas with his family. One of the nights started snowing a lot and when we woke up there was a palm of snow. We wanted to go to the mountain but the road was closed. It has stopped snowing and the snow has melted, so it's time to go to Chili crossing the Andes, because at the end of the month I have a flight from Santiago to New Zealand. Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-25491162148667602322017-07-24T09:04:00.002-07:002017-07-24T09:04:54.845-07:00Nord d'Argentina / North of Argentina<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Tenia tres dies per arribar de Perú al nord d'Argentina a trobar-me amb la meva germana Maria i el meu cunyat Jordi, així que podia anar amb la calma. Vaig creuar de Perú a Chile i aquí arriba la primera sorpresa, em diuen que el pas pel desert d'Atacama al nord d'Argentina està tallat per la neu, així que la millor opció era donar la volta per Bolivia. Aquesta ruta ja l'havia fet fa 6 anys i la recordava preciosa pero molt llarga, no tenia alternativa si volia arribar a temps així que agafo un bus nocturn cap a Bolivia. Com que el bus no sortia fins la nit, vaig anar a donar una volta per la platja d'Arica i vaig conéixer una parella xilena super simpàtica, em van convidar a cerveses a la platja i després a sopar a casa seva. Ja m'hagués quedat a passar la nit perquè era l'any nou Aimara (una ètnia com els quechua). <br /><br />Perfí arribo a Salta, porto 3 dies de viatge desde Lima i ja no puc més. La recompensa arriba tant bon punt baixo del bus, allà m'esperaven desde feia estona la Maria i el Jordi! Una abraçada gegant i a l'instant se'm passa el malestar dels tres dies de bus per arribar. Em fa moltíssima ilusió que compartim una part del viatge! De fet, volien venir al Gener a Cuba però la Maria es va fer molt mal quan va caure corrent i encara dura la recuperació.<br />
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<br />Abans de venir la familia em va preguntar, què necessites? Què et fa falta? Hi vaig estar pensant i la veritat és que res, jo mateix em vaig sorprendre. És increible pensar que tot el que he necessitat durant sis mesos ho puc portar a les espatlles en una motxilla gran i una petita. Així que els hi vaig demanar el que més trobo a faltar de menjar; bon formatge, pernil i embotits. En tota llatinoamèrica no he trobat bon formatge i no serà perquè no tenen la matèria prima, però el formatge d'aquí és tipus fresc i res de manxego, blau, sec, etc. I no parlem del pernil o els embotits, en fi, com estic disfrutant amb aquest regal!<br />
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<br />Un cop visitat Salta, decidim llogar un cotxe per recórrer el nord. Anem direcció nord passant per la Quebrada de Humahuaca, tot un espectacle de carretera, fins a la montanya de 14 colors, sembla que algú s'hagi dedicat a pintar capes de diferents colors a un conjunt de montanyes, és molt espectacular i el mirador està a 4300 metres. El dia següent anem a Salinas grandes, és com el Salar d'Uyuni en petita escala, un desert de sal on extreuen sal en petites piscines i es poden fer fotos molt xules. <br /><br />Un altre dia anem cap a Cachi, un poblet a 3 hores de Salta. Pel camí ens parem cada dos per tres, ara un mirador, ara una montanya nevada, ara un grup de llames. De sobte, ens traslladem al far west entrant a un parc nacional on està ple dels típics cactus però de fons es veuen montanyes nevades. No m'imaginava que el més maco ens esperava baixant de Cachi a Cafayate per una camí de terra, allà creuem la Quebrada de las Flechas, unes montanyes rocoses que fan unes formes espectaculars degut a l'erosió de l'aigua i del vent.<br /><br />Cafayate és conegut per produir bon vi i el vi a més altura de Argentina, així que aprofitem per fer una visita i una cata de vins a una de les bodegues locals. De tornada a Salta també vam fer unes quantes parades a veure formacions rocoses curioses i la garganta del diablo, una formació semicircular considerada la porta a l'inframón per una de les ètnies locals. Ha arribat el moment de canviar de zona, així que agafem un bus nocturn cap a Córdoba.<br />
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<br />Córdoba és una gran ciutat amb molta vida. Els carrers, places i parcs són plens de gent, hi han mercats d'artesanies i vam topar amb una milonga de tango al carrer, era maquíssim veure un munt de parelles ballant tango tant bé. De moment tots els argentins que hem trobat han estat molt amables amb nosaltres, preguntant-nos si necessitem ajuda i aconsellant-nos amb tot perquè ens sentim a gust. Un exemple és quan vam anar al parlament de Córdoba a preguntar si es podia visitar, la noia de la recepció ens diu que l'home que fa les visites no hi és. De sobte ens diu que ens esperem un moment i després ens diu que la seguim, ella mateixa es disposava a ensenyar-nos el parlament. Entrava a moltes sales; la biblioteca, l'arxiu, la sala parlamentària i la gent ens explicava que feien a cada lloc. <br /><br />Al voltant de Córdoba hem visitat el que jo anomenaria com pobles peculiars. Un dia vam anar a Cumbrecita i a Villa Gral. Belgrano. Són dos pobles que semblen més dels alps que d'Argentina. Aquí, es va produir una mallorcanització; pots veure cartells en alemà, productes, cervesa i construccions alemanes, fins i tot tenen un Oktoberfest.<br />
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<br />La Maria i el Jordi volen cap a Calafate, una part de la Patagonia on hi ha el Perito Moreno, i ens retrobem a Buenos Aires tres dies més tard. Jo no hi vaig perquè els vols eren cars i, donat que ara és hivern aquí i m'han dit que no es pot fer moltes excursions ni acampar a la Patagonia, he decidit que ho deixo per un altre viatge quan sigui estiu allà. Mentrestant he anat a visitar un altre poble peculiar, Capilla del Monte. Aquest és conegut per ser un poble amb unes energies especials des d'on s'ha vist vida extraterrestre. A tot el poble hi han dibuixos d'extraterrestres, estàtues d'ovnis i llocs relacionats amb temes espirituals; tarot, reiki, meditació, etc. A la vora hi ha el cerro Uritorco, una montanya d'uns 2000 metres d'altura que era considerat un lloc sagrat per les poblacions indígenes d'allà, així que vaig decidir fer el cim. Al cim m'esperaven uns condors impressionants que volaven en cercle aprofitant les corrents d'aire calent. S'hi estava molt a gust al cim, així que em vaig quedar molta estona, fins que els pocs turistes que havien pujat la montanya ja no hi eren. Llavors s'estava totalment en silenci i els condors volaven tant baix per sobre el meu cap que fins i tot es podia sentir com tallaven l'aire.<br />
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<br />Aquí els busos són caríssims i gairebé no hi han trens, però vaig recordar que uns argentins que vaig conèixer a Perú, em van dir que de Cordoba a Buenos Aires hi havia tren dos cops per setmana, que eren molt barats, però que s'havia de reservar amb temps perquè volaven. Vaig aconseguir un dels bitllets de tren per anar cap a Buenos Aires per trobar-me de nou amb la Maria i el Jordi. <br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />I had three days to reach from Peru to the north of Argentina in order to meet my sister Maria and my brother in law Jordi, so I could go with the calm. I crossed from Peru to Chile and here the surprise arrives, they informed me that the path through the Atacama desert to the north of Argentina was closed due to the snow, so the best option was going through Bolivia. I already did this way six years ago and I remember it was so beautiful but long, I didn't have other alternatives if I wanted to arrive on time so I took I night bus to Bolivia. Due to the fact that the bus was not leaving until the night, I went to walk in the beach of Arica and I met a really nice chilean couple, they invited me to take beers in the beach and afterwards to have dinner at their home. I would have partied with them at night because it was the Aimara's new year eve (an ethnics like the quechua).<br /><br />Finally I reached Salta, I've been three days travelling from Lima and I'm exhausted. The reward comes as soon as I go out of the bus, there Maria and Jordi were waiting for me for a long time! A big hug and instantly I forgot the three uncomfortable days in the bus. I'm so excited for sharing a part of the trip! In fact, they wanted to come on January in Cuba, but Maria hurted herself a lot when she fell down running and she's still in rehab. <br /><br />Before they came, my family asked me, what do you need? what do you miss? I was thinking about it and the truth is that I don't need anything, I was surprised. It's incredible thinking that I can carry everything I've needed during six in a big and a small backpack. So I told them the food I miss the most; good cheese, spanish ham and sausages. I haven't found good cheese in all latinamerica, although they have the milk the cheese they do is mostly fresh and there's no "manchego", blue, aged, etc. And let's not talk about the spanish ham or the sausages, well, I'm enjoying a lot with the present! <br /><br />Once we visited Salta, we decided renting a car to visit the north. We go towards the north passing by the "Quebrada de Humahuaca", a beautiful road until the 14 colours mountain, which seems that someone has painted different color layers, it's really spectacular and the viewpoint is at 4300 meters. On the following day, we went to Salinas Grandes, is like Salar de Uyuni in small scale, a salt desert where they extract salt in small pools and you can do really nice photos. <br /><br />Another day we went to Cachi, a town 3 hours away from Salta. On the way we stopped every now and then; in a viewpoint, a snowed mountain, a group of lamas, etc. Suddenly, we were transported into the far west, entering a national park full of the typical cactus but with snowed mountains of the background. I couldn't imagine that the most beautiful part was waiting for us on the way down from Cachi to Cafayate on the dusty road 40. There we passed by the "Quebrada de las Flechas", rocky mountains that make spectacular shapes due to the water and wind erosion. <br /><br />Cafayate is well known for producing good wine, and the highest wine in Argentina, so we took the advantage of visiting a local winery and doing a wine tasting. On the way back to Salta, we also stopped many times to see curious rocky formations and the devil's throught, a semicircular formation considered the gate to the underworld for some local ethnics. It's time to change the area, so we took a night bus to Cordoba. <br /><br />Cordoba is a big lively city. The streets, squares and parks are full of people, there are artisanal markets and we bumped into a milonga tango in the streed, it was amazing seeing many couples dancing tango so well. Currently, all the argentinians we met have been so kind with us, asking if we need help and giving recommendations to make us feel well. An example is when we were in the Cordoba's parliament to ask if we could visit it, the woman of the reception told us that the man who is doing the visits was not there. Suddenly she told us to wait for a moment and after that we should follow her, she was going to show us the parliament. She was entering in many rooms, library, archives, parliament room and everyone working there were explaining what they were doing.<br /><br />In the suroundings of Cordoba we've visited what I would call as peculiar towns. One day we went to Cumbrecita and Villa Gral. Belgrano. These are two towns that seem more from the alps than from Argentina. It occured like a part of Mallorca; you can see german signs, products, beer and constructions, they even have an Oktoberfest.<br /><br />Maria and Jordi flew to Calafate, a part of Patagonia where there's the Perito Moreno, and we will meet again in Buenos Aires three days later. I didn't go because the flights were expensive and, due to the fact that now is winter here you can't do most of the excursions or camping in the Patagonia, so I decided leaving it for another trip. Meanwhile, I visited another peculiar town, Capilla del Monte. This is known to be a town with special energies where some UFOs have been observed. In all the town there are aliens' drawings, UFOs' statues and places spiritually related; tarot, reiki, meditation, etc. Next to it, there's the Uritorco mountain, a 2000m summit considered a sacred place for the indigenous there, so I decided to climb it. On the top, some impressive condors were flying in circles taking advantage of the thermoclines. I was feeling so well in the top, so I stayed there for a long time, until the few tourists that have climbed the mountain disappeared. Then, it was totally in silence and the condors where flying so low over my head that I could hear how they were cutting the wind. <br /><br />Here the buses are really expensive and there's almost no trains, but I remembered that some argentinians I met in Peru told me that there's a train two times a week from Cordoba to Buenos Aires, which is really cheap, but you had to book well in advance. I got a train ticket and I went to Buenos Aires to meet Maria i Jordi. Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-47782550826644743652017-07-02T20:20:00.002-07:002017-07-02T20:20:17.638-07:00Tornant a la casa peruana / Going back to the peruvian home<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Crec que ja m'han picat suficientment els mosquits així que ha arribat el moment de sortir de la selva. A la zona d'Iquitos només es pot arribar en barco pel riu o en avió, així que agafo una barca i varios busos fins arribar a Chachapoyas, si, el nom té tela. Pel camí he fet amics; la Louise d'Alemania, l'Alicia de Madrid, el Harry i el Mateo d'Anglaterra i l'Andrea de l'Esquirol (al costat de Vic). Estem tots viatjant sols i són molt bona gent així que sense buscar-ho formem grupet i visitem la zona junts.<br />
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El primer dia anem al canyó de Huancas on vam fer una caminata per anar als miradors. El segon dia anem a Kuelap, unes ruines que sovint les comparen amb Machu Picchu, la veritat és que son impressionants i el millor de tot, és que no hi ha gairebé no hi ha gent. Per arribar allà, vam gairebé estrenar el primer telefèric de Perú que funciona desde fa dos mesos. Sembla que el govern peruà està invertint fort en aquesta zona perquè sigui un nou atractiu turístic, i té tots els números que sigui així. L'últim dia vam anar a la cascada de Gocta, no tenia gaires expectatives d'aquesta i vaig alucinar. És la tercera cascada més gran del món, són dos salts d'aigua que fan en total 771 metres de caiguda, només superada pel salt de l'angel a Venezuela i una que està a Tanzania. Vam fer una caminata de 8 hores per anar als dos salts i em vaig quedar enamorat del lloc, amb quina força queia l'aigua i el paisatge que l'envoltava, ah, i de nou estavem gairebé sols tota l'estona. <br />
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<br />En aquest punt es separaven els nostres camins, així que jo vaig continuar amb l'Andrea cap a Tumbes, el lloc on havia viscut fa 6 anys. Vam arribar molt de nit i vam anar a menjar una hamburguesa a un lloc molt humil que hi anava sovint a la vora de la casa on vivia. La filla de la mestressa, va ficar els ulls com a plats quan em va veure i li diu a la seva mare "es Jordi". En aquell precís moment em vaig adonar que havien passat 6 anys ja que m'arrivaba a la cintura quan vaig marxar i ara era el doble d'alta. <br /><br />L'endemà l'Andrea va marxar cap a l'Equador i jo vaig anar en busca del meu compadre, el Leo. Ell és el meu millor amic de Tumbes i em va fer "padrino de corte de pelo" de la seva filla Dayana. Al Perú tenen varis padrins, el que li tira l'aigua, el que paga el convit, el que li talla un metxo de cabells, etc. Un cop et fan padrí, passes a ser com de la familia i els pares de la fillola passen a ser el teu compadre i comadre. Feia dues setmanes que el Leo no em contestava al mòvil així que em vaig imaginar que li havia passat algo amb el mòvil. Vaig anar on tenia la paradeta al passeig i havien tret a tots els ambulants del passeig, en una ocasió ja m'havia dit que s'havia canviat de lloc. Vaig reconéixer al de seguretat de la casa de canvi de la vora, li vaig preguntar pel Leo i em va indicar on era la seva nova ubicació. Encara no havia posat la parada així que vaig anar a veure la familia que em llogaven l'habitació, van flipar al veure'm passar per la porta. Em van convidar a esmorzar, vam estar parlant molta estona i al tornar ja vaig trobar al Leo. <br /><br />Per la tarda vam anar a buscar les motxilles i em vaig instalar a casa seva. S'han comprat una casa més gran que la que tenien abans ja que ara son familia nombrosa, han tingut un nen, el Gary, que ara té l'edat de la Dayana quan vaig marxar, algo menys de dos anys, i l'Adrián, un nen de 14 anys d'un antic matrimoni del Leo. Vaig estar tant bé a la seva casa, és un lloc molt humil però no els falta de res, s'estimen tots un munt, els nens son adorables, molt inteligents i amb personalitats molt diferents. Vaig tenir molt bona entesa amb els nens, l'Adrian volia que li expliqués tota l'estona sobre tots els animals que havia vist al viatge, amb la Dayana jugàvem a jocs de paraules i de matemàtiques i el Gary m'ensenyava tot, m'agafava de la mà i em senyalava les coses. M'han tornat a ensenyar que no es necessiten luxes per ser molt feliços.<br />
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<br />Després d'haver visitat tots els amics i haver-me banyat a les precioses platges solitàries de la zona, me'n vaig cap a Lima. Allà m'acull la Juana, una molt bona amiga peruana amb la que ja hem compartit bons moment tant a Perú com a casa, fins i tot ha vingut a una festa familiar a Banat (la casa familiar que tenim a vora de la Seu). També quedem amb l'Ana, una altra amiga peruana amb la que vaig viatjar per Bolivia l'altra vegada i també ha vingut a Barcelona. Si es que al final, viatjar crea vincles molt intensos i et permet conéixer gent molt maca amb la que els camins futurs es tornaran a creuar si un vol. <br />
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<br />Ja ha arribat el moment tant esperat, me'n vaig direcció al nord d'Argentina per trobar-me amb la Maria, la meva germana, i el Jordi (bula), el meu cunyat, per viatjar junts per Argentina. <br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />I think I got enough mosquito bites, so it's time to go out from the jungle. In the area of Iquitos, you only can reach there by boat through the river or by plane, so I took a boat and several buses until I reached Chachapoyas. I've made some friends on the way; Louise from Germany, Alicia from Madrid, Harry and Mateo from the UK and Andrea from Esquirol (next to Vic/Barcelona). We are all travelling alone and they are really nice people, so without willing it we all joined into a group and we visited the area together.<br />
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On the first day, we went to the Huancas canyon where we did a trekking to visit the view points. On the second day, we went to Kuelap, some ruins often compared to Machu Picchu, the truth is that they are really impressive and the best of it is that they are almost empty. To reach there, we almost were the first ones using the first cable car that has been working for only two months. It seems that the peruvian government is investing a lot in this area to become a new turistic attraction, and definately it will be. The last day, we went to the Gocta waterfall, I wasn't expecting so much about it and I really allucinated. Is the third longest waterfall in the world, they are two water falls which sum up 771 meters of fall, only beated by angel fall in Venezuela and another one in Tanzania. We did a trekking for 8 hours to go to both falls and I fell in love with the place, with the strength of the water falling and the landscape surounding it, ah, and again the fact that we were almost alone all the time. <br /><br />At that point, our ways were spliting, so I continued with Andrea to Tumbes, the place I lived 6 years ago. We arrived really late at night so we went to eat a hamburguer to a really humble place that I used to go, just next to the place I was living. The daughter of the owner opened the eyes like an owl and said to her mother "is Jordi". On that precise moment, I realized that 6 years had passed because she was high as my waist when I left and now she was two times taller. <br /><br />On the following day, Andrea left to Ecuador and I went to look for my "compadre", Leo. He is my best friend in Tumbes and he made me the best man of cutting the hair of his daughter Dayana. In Peru they have several best men, the one who throws the water, the one who pays the party, the one who cuts a bit of hair, etc. Once you are a best man, you become member of the family, and from that point the parents of the child are your "compadre" and "comadre". Leo didn't answer in the cell phone for the last two weeks, so I guessed something happened with the cell. I went where he used to have the mobile shop in the main promenade but they had taken out all the ambulants from that street, he explained me long time ago that he changed the place. I recognized the security man of the currency exchange place, I asked for Leo and he showed me his new location. He wasn't still there because it was really early morning, so I went to visit the family who was renting me a room. They were allucinating when they saw me entering through the door. They invited me for having breakfast, we were talking for a long time and when I came back, Leo was there already. <br /><br />On the afternoon, we went to take the backpacks and I went to sleep to his house. They've bought a bigger house because now they are more members in the family. They've had a boy, Gary, who is a bit less that two years, the same age than Dayana when I left, and Adrian, a 14 years old boy of an old marriage of Leo. I was really happy at his house, is a really humble place but there's nothing missing there, they love each other so much, the children are adorable, really intelligent and with very different personalities. I got along so well with the children, Adrian wanted all the time that I explained about the different animals I had seen in the trip, with Dayana we were playing word and maths games and Gary was showing me all around, he was holding my hand and pointing to everything. They've taught me again that you don't need luxuries to be really happy in life. <br /><br />After having visited all my friends, having swam in the pretty and solitary beaches of the area, I went towards Lima. There I was hosted by Juana, a really good peruvian friend with whom I've shared really good moments in Peru and at home, she has even been in a family festivity in Banat (the family house that we have next to la Seu). We also met Ana, another peruvian friend with whom I travelled in Bolivia last time and she's been in Barcelona. At the end, travelling create really intense links and it allows you knowing really nice people with whom the future paths will cross again if you want to. <br /><br />The most hoped moment has arrived, I'm going to the north of Argentina to meet Maria, my sister, and Jordi (bula), my brother in law to travel together in Argentina. Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-39707937471468398922017-07-02T20:00:00.000-07:002017-07-02T20:00:25.332-07:00Peru entre monos / Peru in between monkeys<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Tothom que em coneix sap que soc molt fan de Perú perquè vaig estar treballant aquí durant mig any, ara fa sis anys. I després de tot aquest temps tornar-hi em fa molta il·lusió. Acabo de tornar de la selva i vaig cap a migracions de Colombia per segellar la sortida, agafo una barca fins a una illa al riu amazones que està a 5min i ja estic a Perú. Al entrar a migracions veig un gran cartell que posa que denunciïs qualsevol cas de corrupció al Perú, sembla que la cosa aquí va canviant a millor. El senyor que em posa el segell resulta que és de Tumbes, on jo vaig treballar, així que vam estar una bona estona xarrant. <br /><br />Havia d'estar al barco a les 3 de la nit així que em vaig quedar a un hostal cutre a l'illa. A l'hora de sopar vaig a "donde el gordo" que m'havia recomanat el de migracions. A Perú és molt típic que t'anomenin per com ets, a que et dediques o d'on vens, així doncs si sents que criden algú com "periódico" és que aquesta persona ven diaris, el mateix per negro, chino, gringo, flacucho, gordo, keke (pastís), españa, etc. Efectivament, l'amo del local era gordo i li n'estava fotent a les birres amb uns amics seus. La seva frase va ser "hombre España, que alegria tenerle aquí, tome con nosotros" i em passa una botella gran de cervesa. Ja no recordava com anava, a Perú es beu la cervesa d'una manera especial, només hi ha una botella gran i un vas. Et passen la botella i després el got, t'emplenes el got i passes la botella al següent, et veus el got i en deixes una mica per saccejar-lo al terra o a la paret (no importa que estiguis a casa) i així deixes el got "net" per passar-lo al següent. El procés itera fins que tothom va com les greques o pots fer una bomba de fum en qualsevol moment. <br /><br />Vaig alucinar amb el vaixell, era un ferri força modern, ben cuidat, que es deia Fjord1 i portava tot escrit en norueg. Resulta que era un vaixell que anava pels fiords de Noruega i ara feia la ruta Leticia-Iquitos pel riu amazones. El riu amazones em va impressionar molt, mai havia vist un riu tant ample, tot envoltat de selva. Vam passar per San Pablo, una població que vaig conéixer a travès de la película diarios de motocicleta del Che Guevara. Té un centre per leprosos, que encara existeix, regentat per monges on els leprosos estàven a un cantó de l'amazones i els treballadors a l'altre. <br /><br />Tenia al Willy, un home d'Iquitos molt simpàtic a la vora amb el que vaig estar parlant bastant i al arribar a Iquitos, la seva dona i fills l'esperaven, i em van portar tots fins a l'hostal. El Willy em volia treure de festa amb els seus amics així que una hora més tard m'estava esperant a la porta de l'hostal amb la seva moto. Vaig anar amb el Willy, els seus amics i algunes de les novies a un lloc a l'aire lliure on tocaven orquestres. De nou el procediment de les rondes de cervesa, va ser una nit molt divertida. <br />
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<br />Com ja he dit d'altres vegades, al viatge em deixo portar per les "senyals". Em vaig quedar amb ganes de fer més voluntariats amb animals i no tenia molt clar que fer a Iquitos, així que vaig conéixer una parella alemana que em van parlar de l'illa dels monos, un centre de rescat de monos. Però ells no hi havien fet voluntariat, així que vaig conéixer una parella holandesa al creuar la frontera que hi havien estat 11 dies de voluntaris i me'n van parlar molt bé. Ja ho tenia coll avall, només havia de descobrir si m'acceptàven i com arribar-hi, així que vaig coneixer a una alemana a la meva habitació de l'hostal d'Iquitos que hi havia estat un mes, ella va contactar-los i em va dir que m'esperàven l'endemà a les 8:30 a l'oficina per anar cap allà. <br /><br />La "isla de los monos" és una illa a la ribera del riu amazones de 450 hectàrees on hi han passat uns 350 monos. Reben tot tipus de monos amb històries similars, animals de companyia abandonats, recuperats del mercat negre, molts son orfes, els hi han matat els pares per motius varis; menjar-se'ls, comerciar amb la seva cua, etc. Gairebé tots els monos aquí estàn en llibertat, només n'hi han tres que estàn tancats perquè són grans i atacaven a la gent i als monos petits. Hi han molts monos que no s'acosten a la casa però hi ha un grup d'uns 15 que sempre estàn a prop i són la cosa més sociable del món.<br />
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<br />Mai m'hagués imaginat que em fliparia tant interactuar amb monos, són super intel·ligents, tenen personalitats molt diferents i marcades, energies diferents, etc. He aprés moltíssim d'ells a diari. El Pepito i la Rusa, un mono choro i una udoladora, uns dels més petits que són orfes, el primer que fan al veure'm és pujar-se'm al cap, s'agafen fort als meus cabells i d'allà no els treus, imagino que és el que passa quan no tens pares. La Emma i la Fabiola, dos mones aranya petites, també fan molta gràcia, semblen bessones encara que en realitat no són familia i van arribar per separat. Però més que això semblen siameses, si una se't tira als braços perquè l'agafis l'altra no tardarà en venir i ajuntar-se com una "garrapata". Recordo al meu pare imitant als monos, de l'època que havia viscut a Guinea Ecuatorial, i jo sempre que he vist a un mono udolar he pensat que el meu pare no els sabia imitar. Fins que se m'ha posat un mono tití al davant i ha fet exactament el mateix soroll que feia el meu pare. Són una passada, a l'illa n'hi han bastants de lliures que els sents udolar i s'animen els uns amb els altres, però n'hi ha un que sempre està pels voltants de la casa i si et poses a imitar-lo, es posa a udolar amb tu. La Blanca, una moneta chora estava malalta, no volia menjar i tenia diarrea. Creien que tenia febre però no tenien termòmetre per mirar-ho, així que vaig utilitzar el que porto per anar-li controlant la temperatura. Li van haver de pujar la medicació perquè no li baixava la febre i al cap del dia ja anava millor i poc a poc va anar menjant. <br /><br />Un dia que passava amb un parell de monos al cap per vora la gàbia de la Maria, és un dels tres monos grans que estàn tancats, vaig veure que estava amb el cap entre els braços, m'acosto i feia un soroll com si estés plorant, em va impactar molt lo real que semblava. Em vaig moure a una altra part de la gàbia, va venir, va posar l'esquena tocant a la reixa i continuava somicant, així que la vaig acariciar. Acte seguit, els monos que portava al cap van baixar i posar-se a acariciar-la també a través de la reixa, era un acte molt "humà", fins que al cap d'una bona estona va parar de plorar. El dia següent em diuen que la Maria i el Sambo (l'altre mono gran que estava a la mateixa gàbia) han trencat un tros de reixa i s'han escapat, en part em vaig alegrar, encara que no volia que ataquessin als petits. Els vaig veure i estaven tota l'estona als arbres del voltant de la casa. En un moment del dia que estàvem amb els altres voluntaris al porxo envoltats de monos, la Maria va aparèixer i se'm va posar a la vora, l'acaricio i se m'estira a sobre la falda, en un moment tenia 4 monos abraçats a ella tots a sobre la meva falda, imagino que la Maria és el més pròxim a una mare que poden tenir allà. Des de llavors, la Maria cada dia ve a que l'acaricïi en algun moment o altre. Al Sambo, que sembla ser el més perillós ja l'han posat a la gàbia de nou, però els he insistit molt perquè almenys deixin a la Maria fora, ella està més contenta i els altres monos l'abracen sovint.<br />
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<br />Sembla que 5 dies tampoc donin per tant però se'm passen un munt d'històries més pel cap que he viscut aquests dies. Trobaré molt a faltar aquest lloc, es que són tant monos!!<br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />Everyone who knows me, know that I'm a big fan of Peru because I was working here for half year, 6 years ago. And after all that time, it really excites me going back to Peru. I've just come back from the jungle and I'm going to colombian migrations to stamp out, I take a boat to an island in the river only 5min away and I'm already in Peru. When I entered into migrations I saw a big sign that says you have to denounce any corruption case in Peru, it seems that the things are improving here. The man that put me the stamp is from Tumbes, where I was working, so we talked for quite a long time. <br /><br />I had to be in the ferry at 3 in the night so I stayed in a basic hostel in the island. At dinner time, I went "donde el gordo" (where the fat man) which was recommended by the migrations guy. In Peru is really typical that they call you depending on how you are, what's your job or where you come from. Therefore, if you hear calling someone "newspaper" means that this person sells newspapers, the same for black, chinese, gringo, thin, fat, keke (cake), spain, etc. Definately, the owner of the place was fat and was drinking beers with his friends. His sentence was "hombre España, que alegria tenerle aquí, tome con nosotros" (Hi Spain, such a joy having you here, come and drink with us) and he gave me a big bottle of beer. I didn't remember how it works, in Peru the beer is drank in a very special way, there's only one big bottle and one glass. They pass you the bottle and after the glass, you fill the glass and you pass the beer to the next one, you drink the glass and you leave a bit of beer to throw it to the floor or the wall (it doesn't matter if you are at home), this way you leave the glass "clean" for the next one. The process iterates until everyone is completely wasted or you can disappear at any time. <br /><br />I was so amazed with the ferry, it was so modern, well preserved, was called Fjord1 and everything was written in norwegian. It was a ferry that used to go through the norwegian fiords and now it was doing the way from Leticia to Iquitos through the Amazones river. The river Amazones was so impressive, I had never seen such a wide river, all surounded by jungle. We passed by San Pablo, a town that I knew through the film motorbike diaries from Che Guevara. It has a center for leprosy people, which still exists, managed by nuns, where the ill people was in one side of the amazones and the workers in the other. <br /><br />Willy was seated next to me, a very kind man from Iquitos who I talked quite a lot. When we arrived in Iquitos, his wife and children were waiting him and all of them took me to the hostel. Willy wanted me to go out with his friends so an hour later he was waiting in front of my hostel with his motorbike. I went with him and his friends to an outdoor place where some orquestras were playing local music. Again the beer drinking procedure, it was such a funny night. <br /><br />As I said in other ocasions, in the trip I follow the "signs". I wanted to do more volunteerings with animals and I wasn't sure what to do in Iquitos, so I met a german couple that talked me about the monkeys island, a rescue center for monkeys. But they didn't volunteer there, so I met a dutch couple crossing the border that had been 11 days as volunteers there and they recommended it a lot. I already decided I wanted to go, I just needed to figure out if they would accept me and how to reach there, so I met a german girl in the dorm in Iquitos who had been there for a month, she contacted them and they told her that they would be waiting for me the day after at 8:30 in the office to go to the island. <br /><br />The monkey island is an island in the side of the river Amazones, it has 450 hectars and there has been 350 monkeys. They receive all kind of monkeys with similar stories, abandoned pets, saved from the black market, many of them are orphans, they've killed the parents for several reasons; eat them, deal with them or its tail, etc. Almost all the monkeys here are free, only three of them are in a cage because they are big and were attacking the people and the baby monkeys. There's many monkeys who don't get close to the house but there's a group of 15 that are always close and they are the most social thing in the world.<br /><br />I never thought I would be so amazed interacting with monkeys, they are super intelligent, they have different personalities, energies, etc. I've learned so much from them everyday. Pepito and Rusa, a baby choro and howler monkey, they are orphans. The first thing they do when they see me is climbing to my head, they take my hair really strong and you can't take them from there. I guess this is what happens when you don't have parents. Emma and Fabiola, two spider monkeys, they are so cute aswell. They seem twins, although they are not family and they came separatedly. If one of them come to your arms, the other one won't take long to come and join like a tick. I remember my father emulating the monkeys from the time he was living in Guinea Ecuatorial, and when I've always seen a monkey howling I thought that my father didn't know how to emulate them. Until a titi monkey has been in front of me and he has done the same noise that my father was doing. They are amazing, in the island there are quite many free ones that you hear them howling, but there's one around the house that if you emulate it, it will start howling with you. Blanca, a woolly monkey was ill, didn't want to eat and had diarrea. They thought she had fever but they couldn't check it, so I used mine to control her temperature. They had to increase the medication because the fever wasn't going down, but one day later she was better and was eating more. <br /><br />One day, that I was passing, with a couple of monkeys in the head, next to Maria's cage, she is one of the three big monkeys that are in cages, I saw she was with the head between the arms. I went closer and she was doing a noise like she was crying, I was so shocked because the crying was so real. I moved to the other side of the cage, she came, put the back touching the fence and continued crying, so I caressed her. Suddenly, the monkeys I had in the head went down and also caressed her through the fence, it was such a "human" gest, until quite a long time that stopped crying. The following day, they told me Maria and Sambo (the other big monkey that was in the same cage) broke a piece of fence and they scaped. Somehow it made me happy, although I didn't want the babies to get hurt. I saw them and they were all the time in the trees around the house. In the afternoown, we were with the other volunteers in the porch surounded by monkeys when Maria appeared and sat next to me. I carelessed her and she laid down on my knees. In a short time I had 4 monkeys hugging her on my legs, I guess Maria is the closest to a mother that can have there. Since then, Maria everyday comes in order that I careless her. They've put Sambo back in the cage, who seems the most dangerous one, but I've insisted a lot to have Maria outside, she is happier and the other monkeys hug her all the time. <br /><br />It seems that 5 days are not that much, but many other stories that I've lived these days come to my mind. I'll miss this place a lot because they are so monkeys (in spanish means cute)!!<br /><br />Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-2983637085440256012017-06-23T10:00:00.001-07:002017-06-23T10:00:39.717-07:00Colombia 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />
La primera parada del "eje cafetero" és Manizales, una ciutat on has de tenir un bon nivell per conduir per allà ja que tot són pujades i baixades empinades i amb curves on sovint t'has d'aturar al mig de la pujada amb cotxes davant i darrera. Amb l'Andrea, una de les noies austríaques decidim anar cap al nevado del ruiz, una montanya nevada de gairebé 5000m, ja que teniem mono de montanya. <br />
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No trobàvem enlloc com anar-hi sense contractar tours que eren força cars, així que decidim anar a l'aventura. Ens llevem molt d'hora i desde l'estació d'autobusos agafem un bus que ens deixa a l'encreuament amb la carretera del parc nacional. Al baixar, entrem a un restaurant a preguntar i just estava fent un café un senyor que anava a recollir llet, així que ens diu que ens porta cap amunt. Anàvem fent parades a carregar llet i fer encàrrecs fins que ens va deixar al final del seu recorregut. Continuem a peu amb un paisatge molt maco d'alta montanya i el nevat a la llunyania. De sobte, una pickup para i ens diu si volem pujar al maleter, així que pugem i ens porten fins a l'entrada del parc. Resulta que era una familia maquíssima de Santander (de Colòmbia). A l'entrada del parc ens informen que hi ha risc d'activitat volcànica desde 2010 i nomes permeten accedir 5km més i no es podia fer caminant, així que decidim fer una rutilla caminant pel voltant que ens havia recomanat el de la llet. Tothom es va oferir per portar-nos amb el seu cotxe però preferiem fer la ruta a peu. Tot el dia va ser un clar exemple de l'amabilitat típica colombiana amb els turistes, el colmo va ser quan la familia de Santander em van trucar unes hores més tard per dir-me que es disposaven a baixar fins al encreuament i que ens venien a recollir. Un cop a dins del cotxe ens diuen, "Conocen Santander? No. Pues venganse con nosotros!". No vam anar cap a Santander, estava a 8 hores i teniem que recollir a l'altra noia austríaca a Manizales.<br />
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Al dia següent, les noies anàven cap a Cali i jo continuava visitant l'eje cafetero, així que ara si que anava totalment sol. A l'eje cafetero he tingut un guia a distància, el Carlos, un noi de l'eje cafetero que viu a La Seu i parlant amb la meva mare, li va dir que el contactés per recomanacions. Va ser tota una experiència! El Carlos va contactar a un amic seu agrònom que té plantacions de café perqué m'ensenyés tot el procès del café, així que em vaig dirigir cap a Genova a trobar-lo. Genova és una població el més al sud possible de l'eje cafetero i havia sigut una zona molt afectada per la guerrilla, em van explicar històries que el rio rojo d'allà li deien així pels cadàvers i la sang que s'hi havien tirat. No em podia creure que la zona hagués sigut tant xunga quan m'ho explicàven l'Anderson i la Marcela, els amics del Carlos. Ara és un poblet molt tranquil, amb gent per tot arreu i envoltat de turons plens de cafè. <br />
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El primer que vam fer va ser prendre un cafè i he de dir que no havia probat un cafè tant bó desde que vaig sortir de casa, i això que em van ensenyar com el gra de qualitat l'exporten cap a fora del país i el dolent es queda aquí. Vam agafar un willy (un tot terreny sense sostre) i vam anar cap a la finca de cafè. L'Anderson és un crack, li apassiona el món del cafè i en sap moltíssim, així que em va explicar pas per pas com funcionava aquest mundillo. Els terrenys els cultivàven entre varies persones i com que era època de recolecta tots dormien allà encara que no estava gaire acondicionat. Entre pitos i flautes se'ns va fer tard perquè jo tornès al poble i busquès allotjament, així que vaig parar l'hamaca i em vaig quedar a dormir amb ells. A la nit vam riure molt bevent cervesa tots plegats amb uns altres agricultors que vivien allà. <br />
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L'endemà decideixo tornar a Genova caminant perquè no haguèssin de trucar expressament a un willy que em vingués a buscar. M'acompanyen un trosset i quan portem 5min caminant para un tio amb una moto i diu "el de la mochila, le bajo?". Doncs ja em veus de paquet a una moto amb la motxilla gran i la petita als hombros per un camí de terra entre cafetals, per suposat sense casc i no em va cobrar res.<br />
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De camí a Salento se m'assenta un senyor gran a la vora, em dona un munt de recomanacions de Salento i m'explica la seva vida. Al baixar del bus em diu, "vamos, que le invito a un café", vam anar a un lloc molt autèntic a la plaça principal i em va fer provar la torta de vino, un pastís de vi amb fruits secs boníssim i típic d'allà. Visito el poblet que era molt maco amb totes les cases de colors i l'endemà vaig a la vall del Cocora, una vall on crèixen les palmeres de cera que surten enmig del paisatge verd i fan uns 40m d'altura. Em va impressionar molt el lloc. Allà vaig fer una ruta amb dos nois que vaig conéixer, un dels Estats Units i l'altre que era colombià però des dels 10 vivia als Estats Units. Resulta que aquest últim estudiava a una universitat de la Ramon Llull a Nova York, i ho feia en català. Parlava perfectament català i no havia trepitjat mai Catalunya, vaig flipar.<br />
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L'última parada de l'eje cafetero va ser Armenia, on vaig anar a sopar a casa la mare del Carlos. Em va preparar un Sancocho deliciós, és una sopa amb tubèrculs i una carn de vedella que se't desfeia a la boca, vaig sortir rodolant. D'aquí bus nocturn a Bogotà, vaig visitar la ciutat i pujar a Monserrate, i avió cap a Leticia, una població de la selva amazònica de Colòmbia on no es pot arribar per terra.<br />
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Feia 4 mesos que no agafava un avió i se'm va fer raro i tot, però vaig veure unes vistes de l'amazones espectaculars que van fer que valgués molt la pena. Des de Leticia en 5 min estàs a Brazil o a Perú, la "frontera" és el riu. A Leticia cada dia succeeix un fenòmen molt curiós, a una plaça del mig de la població cada dia hi van a dormir milers de lloros verds. Així que ens vam aixecar a les 5 del matí amb uns nois que vaig conéixer per anar a veure com milers de lloros despertaven i anaven en manada a passar el dia a la selva. Va ser un espectacle brutal, només havies de vigilar que no et caigués un dels centenars de míssils que deixàven caure. <br />
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Vaig fer un tour per la selva de tres dies on vam dormir amb hamaca al mig de la selva, vam veure serps, caimans, taràntules, perezosos, un munt d'ocells, em vaig banyar a un riu on hi havien dofins rosats, piranyes i ens van acrivillar els mosquits. Al tornar del tour agafaré un barco per creuar cap a Iquitos, Perú, pel riu amazones.<br />
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[ENGLISH]<br />
The first stop in the coffee area is Manizales, a city where you need to have good driving skills because everything are steep ways up and down with twists. I decided with Andrea, one of the austriac girls, to go to the "nevado del ruiz", one snowed mountain of almost 5000m because we were missing the mountains. <br />
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We couldn't find anywhere how to go there without taking a tour which were quite expensive, so we decided to go on an adventure. We woke up really early and from the bus station we took a bus that left us in the junction with the national park's road. When we went down the bus, we entered the restaurant to ask and there was a man taking a coffee who was going to collect milk in the area, so he gave us a lift. We were stopping to collect milk until he left us at the end of his journey. We continued on foot with a really beautiful high mountain landscape and the snowed mountain at the end. Suddenly, a "pick up" stopped and asked if we wanted to go in the back part, so we went up and they took us to the park entrance. It was a really nice family from Santander (in Colombia). In the park entrance they told us that there was risk of volcanic activity since 2010 and they were only allowing to access 5km more and you couldn't do it walking, so we decided doing an alternative path walking which recommended us the man of the milk. Everybody offered themselves to take us with the car but we preferred walking. All the day was an example of the typical colombian kindness with the tourists, the maximum was when the family of Santander phoned me some hours later to tell me that they were going down and they could pick us up. Once in the car, they said "Do you know Santander? No. Then, come with us!". We didn't go to Santander, it was 8 hours away and we had to meet again with the other austriac girl in Manizales. <br />
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On the following day, the girls went to Cali and I continued visiting the coffee area, so now I was totally alone. In the coffee area I've had a guide in the distance, Carlos, a guy from the coffee area who lives in La Seu and, talking with my mother, he said that I should contact him for recommendations. It was such an experience! Carlos cantacted a friend of him who is farmer and has coffee plantations to show me all the process of the coffee, so I went to Genova to meet him. Genova is a town the most in the south possible in the coffee area and was so affected by the "guerrilla", they explained me stories that the name of the red river was coming for the dead bodies that were thrown there. I couldn't believe that this are had been so dangerous when Anderson and Marcela, the friends of Carlos, explained me. Now is a really quiet town, with people everywhere and surounded by hills full of coffee. <br />
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The first that we did was taking a coffee and I must say that I hadn't taken such a good coffee since I left home, even they showed me how the quality grain is exported and the bad one is staying here. We took a willy (a 4x4 without roof) and we went to the coffee farm. Anderson is a crack, he is so passioned about the coffee world and he is so knowledgeable about it, so he explained me step by step how this world works. The land was cultivated between several farmers and, as it was time for collection, they were sleeping there even it was not so well suited for that. It got late for me to go back to the town and look for acommodation, so I put the hamock and I slept there with them. At night we laughed a lot drinking beer together with other farmers who lived there.<br />
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The day after I decided coming back to Genova walking in order that they didn't have to call a willy only for picking me up. They came with me for a while and when we had been walking for five minutes a guy with a motorbike stopped and said "they guy of the backpack, do you want I take you down?". So, I went down with him in the motorbike with the big and small backpack on my shoulders through a ground way between coffee plantations, of course without helmet and for free. <br />
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On the way to Salento, an old man seated next to me, he gave me so many recommendations about Salento and he explained me his life. When we went down the bus he told me, "Let's go, I'll invite you to a coffee.", so he took me to a really authentic place next to the main square and he made me taste the "torta de vino", a delicious wine cake with dry fruits typical from there. I visited the beautiful town full of colorful houses and on the following day I went to Cocora valley, a place where the wax palms grow in the middle of the green landscape, they are around 40m high. The place is really impressive. I did a trekking over there with two guys I met, one from the US and the other one colombian but had been living in the US since he was 10 years old. This last one was studying in a university of Ramon Llull in New York, and it was in catalan. He was speaking catalan perfectly and he had never been in Catalonia, I was really amazed. <br />
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The last stop of the coffee area was Armenia, where I went for dinner to the home of Carlos' mother. She prepared a delicious "sancocho", a tubers soup with beef that was melting on your mouth. From here I took a night bus to Bogota, I visited the city, I went up to Monserrate and I took a flight to Leticia, a town in the colombian amazones where you can't reach there by land. <br />
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I hadn't been taking a plane for the last 4 months and it seemed weird for me, but I saw such an amazing views from the amazones which made it totally worthy. From Leticia in 5 min you are in Brazil or Peru, the "border" is the river. In Leticia there's everyday a curious phenomenon, in a square of the middle of the town everyday thousand of green parrots go to sleep there. So, I woke up at 5 in the morning with some guys I met, to go to how thousands of parrots were waking up and were going to spend the day in the jungle. It was a wonderful show, you only needed to be careful of one of the hundreds missiles that was not falling down on you.<br />
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I did a tour in the jungle for three days where we slept in a hamock in the middle of the jungle, we saw snakes, caimans, tarantules, sloths, many birds and I swam on a river with pink dolphins, piranyas and the mosquitos ate me. When I will come back from the tour, I will take a boat to go to Iquitos, Peru, through the Amazon river. Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-39425000690037322202017-06-21T22:29:00.000-07:002017-06-21T22:29:03.705-07:00Bienvenidos a Colombia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />
Bienvenidos a Colombia! Aquesta frase em va sentar com un tiro el primer dia que arrivem a Colombia. Estàvem a Capurgana i el primer que fem és anar a pel segell d'entrada a Colombia, però com que no hi havia electricitat fins a la tarda ens n'anem a passar el dia a unes piscines naturals prop d'allà. A la tornada tornem a pel segell, entra una de les noies austríaques, l'Elisabeth, i li posen el segell. Després entro jo i just se li espatlla l'ordinador al funcionari de l'aduana, em diu que li havia passat alguna altra vegada i que havia de netejar unes plaques, així que l'ajudo a desmontar l'ordinador i acaba funcionant, així que també em posa el segell. Al entrar l'Andrea tarda molt i ens avisen si podem entrar a traduir, resulta que no s'havien posat la vacuna de la febre groga i el funcionari li deia que havia de tornar cap a Panamà, li torna a demanar el passaport a l'Elisabeth i ella tampoc la tenia així que també deia que no podia ingressar. Al cap d'una estona em fa entrar al despatx i em diu que l'única solució és que paguin una multa de 150 dòlars, és a dir que volia un soborn, no m'ho podia creure. Intento convencer-lo però em deia que sino no els posava el segell. Tornem a la sala on estaven els altres, els hi explico, i també es queden amb cara de pòquer. Intentem regatejar fins a 45 dòlars per cadascuna i amb tota la impotència del món paguen la "multa". Tot seguit ens diu "Bienvenidos a Colombia".<br /><br />Jo ja vaig estar a Colombia fa 6 anys i em va encantar el país i la gent, és una pena que el govern no faci res i permeti tenir funcionaris i policia corrupta. Jo he escrit al govern colombià per denunciar el fet que l'únic funcionari que estava allà treballant era corrupte i que prenessin mesures, a veure si fan alguna cosa. No és un cas aïllat ni molt menys pel que m'han explicat després. <br /><br />En fi, després de la mala estona tot va anar com la seda, vam visitar la zona de Capurganà, una zona amb molta vegetació a la vora de les aigües del carib, vam banyar-nos i fer una excursió per la selva fins a Sapsurro i la Miel, una platja molt maca al costat panameny.<br />
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<br />Una llanxa fins a Turbo i un bus ens porten a Medellin, capital d'Antioquia conegut per les seves montanyes, l'eterna primavera i l'amabilitat dels paisas (la gent d'aquesta regió). És la segona vegada que estic aquí i m'encanta, sempre tinc la sensació que és una ciutat on podria viure-hi, és molt interessant el contrast entre els barris de les montanyes i els de la vall, hi ha molta cultura, gent simpàtica i amb un tarannà especial. <br /><br />A Medellín hi ha molta rumba com diuen aquí, així que arribant un dissabte per la nit vam sortir per pegar-nos una bona festa. El dia següent vaig anar a visitar al Julian a Rionegro, un amic paisa (antioqueny), que vaig conéixer al Perú i ja vaig visitar l'altra vegada a Colombia. Va ser molt divertida la retrobada i vam passar un dia genial explicant-nos la vida, coneixent la ciutat i menjant coses típiques. L'endemà vaig tornar cap a Medellín i vaig quedar amb el Ruben i la Lili, el Ruben és un noi de la Seu casat amb la Lili que és de Medellín. Va ser molt interessant tot el que m'explicaven sobre la vida colombiana desde el punt de vista d'un expatriat. El Ruben em va explicar un munt de semblances entre Barcelona i Medellín, potser aquest és el motiu que m'hi trobi tant bé. Medellín és la segona ciutat del país, té la indústria tèxtil més important del país (es veu que uns empresaris de Manresa van portar la primera maquinària tèxtil), també unes de les empreses més importants del pais son d'alla, l'amabilitat dels paises però a la vegada més freds que els costenys, una comunitat internacional força gran i un molt moviment cultural. Ah, i hi ha un lloc a la vora de Bogotà que es diu Monserrate, és una església al cim d'una montanya que conté una verge moreneta i per pujar-hi s'usa el telefèric o el funicular. La Lili també em va gravar entrevistant-me per explicar la meva opinió de Medellín i Colòmbia per pujar-ho al facebook de la seva agencia de viatges.<br />
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<br />Un dia vam visitar la comuna 13, anys enrera havia sigut uns dels barris més perillosos de Medellín on hi havien matat a molta gent. Colombia ha canviat molt des d'aleshores i ara és un lloc segur per viatjar-hi encara que la mala reputació costa de treure, aquest lloc és un exemple d'aquesta transformació. Han construit per tota la ciutat telefèrics i escales mecàniques per integrar els barris marginals i perillosos amb la resta de la ciutat i que, d'aquesta manera, hi hagi un intercanvi bidireccional. Vam fer una visita guiada gratuita amb uns joves del barri que ens van explicar la seva experiència personal i el significat del munt de grafitis que hi ha pel barri. Vam acabar la visita amb una classe de ritmes llatins a una plaça del barri on l'atracció de la gent del barri vam ser nosaltres. <br /><br />Avui ha arribat la Mihal, una amiga israelí que vam conéixer al centre de rescat a Costa Rica. El Julian m'ha informat que hi havia una obra de teatre "berracos" que just avui era gratuita, així que hi hem anat tots plegats.<br />
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<br />Portem 4 mesos i mig viatjant junts amb el Luis i, com ja vam planejar des del principi, ha arribat el moment de separar-nos. Ell anirà amb la Mihal cap a la costa carib, que jo ja vaig conéixer fa 6 anys, i jo aniré amb les austríaques cap a l'eje cafetero. Penso que ens hem avingut moltíssim amb el Luis durant tot aquest temps, molts bons moments, molta complicitat, cadascú aportant coses diferents a cada situació i no hem discutit ni un sol cop. Hem après molt l'un de l'altre i crec que no oblidarem mai aquesta experiència. Ara aprofitaré tota la força que m'han donat aquests mesos per continuar la nova aventura en "solitari" (mai s'està sol viatjant).<br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />Welcome to Colombia! This sentence felt me like a shot the first day we were in Colombia. We were in Capurgana and the first we did was going to get the stamp in Colombia, but due there weren't electricity until the afternoon, we went to spend he day in some natural pools close to there. On the way back we went for the stamp, Elisabeth went in and she got the stamp. Then I entered and the computer of the migrations guy went down. He told me it happened another time and he knew he had to clean some boards, so I helped him to open the computer and at the end it worked, so I got the stamp. When Andrea entered, she was taking a long time and they asked if we could enter to translate. They didn't have the yellow fever vaccination and the guy was telling her she had to go back to Panama, he asked again for Elisabeth passport and as she also didn't have it, she had to go back as well. A bit later he asked me to enter to the back office and told me that the only solution is that the girls pay a 150 dollars fine, I couldn't believe it. I tried to convince him but he was telling me that otherwise they won't get the stamp. We went back to the room where the others were, I explained them and they also had poker face. We tried to bargain until 45 dollars each and, with all the impotence of the world, they paid the fine. After that, he told us "Bienvenidos a Colombia" (welcome to Colombia). <br /><br />I already stayed in Colombia 6 years ago and I really liked the country and the people, it's so sad that the government doesn't try to stop this and allow having corrupt police and administration. I've written to the colombian government to denounce it and that they should take measure on that, let's see if they do something. For what I've been told afterwards, it's not an isolated case at all. <br /><br />Well, after this terrible situation everything went smoothly. We visited the area of Capurgana, an area with so much nature next to the caribbean water, we swam in the sea and we did a excursion through the jungle to Sapsurro and la Miel, a pretty beach in the Panama side. <br /><br />A speed boat to Turbo and a bus took us to Medellin, the capital of Antioquia, well known for its hills, eternal spring and the kindness of the "paisas" (people from this region). It is the second time I'm here and I love it. I always have the feeling that Medellin is a city where I could live in. The contrast between the hill's neighbourhoods and the ones in the valley is really interesting, there's a lot of culture, nice people and with a special way of behaving. <br /><br />In Medellin there's a lot of "rumba", so arriving a Saturday night in the city we had a really good party. The day after, I visited Julian in Rionegro, a paisa friend that I met in Peru and I already visited the other time I was here. It was so funny meeting him again, we spent a really nice day explaining our lives, knowing the city and eating typical things. The following day, I went back to Medellin and I met Ruben and Lili, Ruben is a guy from La Seu married with Lili who is from Medellin. It was so interesting everything that they explained about the colombian life from the point of view of an expat. Ruben explained me many similarities between Barcelona and Medellin, maybe this is the reason why I feel so well here. Medellin is the second city of the country, it has the most important textile industry of the country (some guys from Manresa brought the first textile machinery), some of the most important companies of the country are there, the kindness of the paisas, but also they are colder than the people from the coast, a big international comunity and cultural movement. Ah, and there's a place next to Bogota called Monserrate, is a church on top of hill that has a dark virgin and to climb up you use a teleferic or funicular. Lili also recorded interviewing me explaining my opinion about Medellin and Colombia to upload it into the facebook of her travel agency. <br /><br />One day we visited comuna 13, years ago this used to be one of the most dangerous neighbourhoods in Medellin where they killed many people. Colombia has changed a lot since then and now is a safe place to travel but the bad reputation is hard to remove, this place is an example of this transformation. They've built metro cables and escalators to integrate the marginal and dangerous neighbourhoods with the rest of the city and this way, a bidi exchange is produced. We did a free tour with some young people from the comuna, they explained us their personal experience and the meaning of many of the grafittis of the area. We finished the tour with a latin dances lesson in a square of the comuna where we became the attraction of the place.<br /><br />Today Mihal has arrived, a friend from Israel that we met in the Costa Rica rescue center. Julian has told me that there's a theatre play called "berracos" that today is for free so we've gone all together. <br /><br />I've been 4 months and a half travelling together with Luis and, as we planned since the begining, it's time to split. He will go with Mihal to the caribbean coast, that I already visited 6 years ago, and I'll go with the austriac girls to the coffee area. I think that we've got along so well with Luis during all this time, many good moments, so much complicity, each one providing different things at each situation and we haven't argued a single time. We've learned a lot from each other and we will never forget this experience. Now I'll take all the energy of these months to continue the adventure in "solitary" (you are never alone while travelling). Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-14412911077581674602017-06-12T05:35:00.000-07:002017-06-12T05:35:00.361-07:00Panama<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Arribem a ciutat de Panamà, una ciutat de contrastos, on et pots sentir com al mig de Manhattan envoltat per rascacels o a un carrer que et recorda a les imatges que es veuen de Síria amb cases i carrers destrossats. La veritat és que sorprenia a cada moment, aquest skyline amb els rascacels impoluts construits sense cap tipus d'ordre i, de sobte, un grup d'indígenes Guna ballant els seus balls tradicionals o un mercat on acabaven de portar peix fresc. <br /><br />Els Guna son una comunitat indígena de Panamà que provenen de Guna Yala (turísticament conegut com San Blas), fins fa pocs anys el govern panameny no els reconeixia els drets indígenes però ara si, així que tenen les seves pròpies lleis, educació, forma d'organitzar-se en societat, etc. Una persona que vetlla per defensar els drets relacionats amb l'alimentació de la comunitat Guna és la Taina, amb la que vam tenir la sort de quedar a travès del cosí del Luis. Vam quedar el primer dia que estàvem a la ciutat per anar a donar una volta i a menjar ceviche a un mercat de peix. Va ser molt interessant que ens expliqués totes les diferències socials dels Guna de primera mà, també ens va ajudar a organitzar el viatge cap a les comunitats Guna Yala i poder creuar cap a Colombia. <br /><br />M'encanta tenir experiències així perquè et fan veure les coses des de l'altre costat del mirall, coneixent d'altres formes de viure, pensaments, simbologies i costums. Per exemple, el primer que em va sorprendre al veure la Taina va ser que portava una pulsera de la bandera d'Espanya amb esbàstiques. Donat que no em quadrava que pertanyés a alguna comunitat feixista espanyola, li vaig preguntar què significava la pulsera i resulta que és la bandera dels Guna Yala. Em va semblar molt curiós que aquest mateix símbol existeixi a una part indígena de Panamà, a l'Alemanya nazi i a l'Índia, on és un símbol de pau. <br />
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<br />Ens dirigim cap a Guna Yala, al carib, aquí agafem una barca per anar a l'illa de Cartí, una petita illa molt poblada que conté la comunitat més gran dins les illes de la zona. No és una illa turística perqué no és maca, però a mi em va resultar molt interessant per veure com vivia la gent d'allà. Moltes dones indígenes anaven vestides amb vestits regionals, pulseres molt amples als braços i les cames, faldilles i bluses colorides, faixes brodades on cada elaborat dibuix tenia un significat (protecció, salut, bon conreu, bona pesca, fertilitat, etc.) i una arrecada al nas. Tenien tradicions molt curioses, com la figura de l'hamaca que l'usaven per tot, des de llit, a un lloc per parir, per fer dormir els nadons, tenir relacions sexuals, aplicar curacions, fins i tot, al mig del temple de la seva religió era d'obligació tenir dues hamaques (significant el bé i el mal).<br /><br />Dic que l'illa no és maca perqué està força bruta, plena de xaboles fetes de canya, no té platja, etc. Aquí he estat al labavo més autèntic que he vist mai, a casa del "negro" on ens quedàvem, tenia com un moll de fusta per les embarcacions, allà hi havia una caseta de fusta amb el labavo. Dins del lavabo hi havíen dues tasses de vàter que donaven directament a l'aigua, és a dir, que podies veure el mar sota teu mentres feies les teves necessitats i, per suposat, se't treien les ganes de banyar-te al voltant de l'illa. Al mig d'aquest lloc tant poc turístic arriven dues noies d'Austria molt simpàtiques, l'Elisabeth i l'Andrea, elles també arriven aquí buscant una forma econòmica i com els locals de creuar cap a Panamà, així que continuem el viatge tots plegats. <br /><br />Recordes el tricicle quan feien de nàufrags a una illa diminuta? Doncs això devia ser a Guna Yala, ja que estava ple d'illetes així. Un dia vam agafar una barca per anar a isla aguja, una illa preciosa que donaves la volta en 10min caminant, envoltada de platja paradisíaca, palmeres serpentejants, cocos, gespa al mig i el mar ple de corall i peixos tropicals.<br />
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<br />El negro ens va aconseguir una llanxa col·lectiva per locals per creuar a Panamà, anàvem amb gent indígena, un noi amb cadira de rodes i una colombiana que tornava cap a casa després d'haver intentat aconseguir una millor vida treballant a Panamà, però trobava a faltar la seva terra i els seus fills, així que tornava a casa. Eren 8 hores de viatge i a la meitat es va posar a ploure molt i a tronar. Jo, de sobte, estava amb dos nois indígenes, tots coberts per un plàstic que tenien per no posar-nos ben xops. Notava com tenia aigua als peus però els nois em van dir que era normal i que lo bo és que amb la pluja no hi havien onades grans, la veritat és que el mar estava tranquil. Vam dormir al poble on hi havia la frontera panamenya amb Colombia perquè ja estava tancat el lloc dels segells. L'endemà ens van posar el segell i en 20 min. més amb barca vam estar a Colombia. Quina aventura!<br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />We arrive in Panama city, a city full of contrasts, where you can feel being in the middle of Manhattan surrounded by skycrapers or in a street that makes you remember the images of Siria with the destroyed houses and streets. It was surprising me all thetime, this skyline with shiny skycrapers built without any kind of order and, suddenly, a group of indigenous Guna people dancing traditional dances or a market where they just brought fresh fish. <br /><br />Guna are an indigenous comunity of Panama who come from Guna Yala (turistically known as San Blas). Not so long ago, the Panama government wasn't recognizing their indigenous rights but now it does, they have their own laws, education, way of organizing themselves as a society, etc. A person that defends the rights related to food of the Guna community is Taina, who we had the luck to know through Luis' cousin. We met her the first day we were in Panama city to walk around and eat ceviche in a fish market. It was really interesting getting to know all the social differences of the Guna people from a Guna person, also she helped us organizing the trip the the community Guna Yala and crossing to Colombia. <br /><br />I love having this kind of experiences because they allow you seeing the things from the other side of the mirror, knowing other ways of living, thoughts, symbologies and traditions. For example, the first thing that surprised me when I saw Taina was that she was wearing a bracelet of the spanish flag withswastika. Due to the fact that I couldn't imagine Taina belonging to a fascist spanish community, I asked her what was the meaning of it and she said it's the flag of Guna Yala. It's really curious that the same symbol exists in an indigenous area in Panama, in the nazi Germany and in India, where it's a symbol of peace. <br /><br />We are heading to Guna Yala, in the Caribbean. Here we took a boat to go to Carti island, a small but very populated island that has the biggest community in the islands of the area. It's not a turistic island because it's not so beautiful, but it was really interesting for me to see how the people was living there. Many indigenous women were dressed with regional customs, long bracelets in the arms and legs, colorful skirts and blouses, embroidered strips where every drawing had a meaning (protection, health, good agriculture, good fishing, fertility, etc.) and a nose ring. They had really curious traditions, like the figure of the hammock which was used for everything; a bed, a place to give birth, to make the babies sleep, have sexual relations, healing, even though, in the middle of their temple the had two hammocks (meaning good and bad). <br /><br />I say it wasn't a beautiful island because it's quite dirty, full of cane houses, without beach, etc. Here I've experienced the most authentic toilet I've ever seen, in "el negro" (black) house where we were staying. He had a wooden dock for the boats with a wooden house with the bathroom. Inside it there were two toilets that were accessing directly the water. In other words, you could see the sea below you while doing your necessities and, of course, you didn't want to swim anymore around the island. In the middle of this non turistic place, two really funny Austrian girls arrived, Elisabeth and Andrea. They were also looking for an economic way like the locals to cross to Panama, so we continued the trip all together.<br /><br />Do you remember "el tricicle" when they were castaways in a tiny island? This was probably in Guna Yala, because it was full of islands like this. One day we took a boat to go to neddle island, a lovely island that in 10 min on foot you could make the turn, surounded by paradisiac beach, winding palm trees, coconuts, grass in the middle and a sea full of coral and tropical fishes. <br /><br />"El negro" got us a shared boat for locals to go to Panama, we were with indigenous people, a guy in wheelchair and a colombian girl that was going back home after having tried achieving a better life working in Panama, but she was missing her home and her children too much. The journey was 8 hours and in the middle it started raining a lot and thundering. Suddenly I was with two indigenous guys, all covered by a plastic that they had not to get wet. I was feeling I had the feet full of water but the guys told me it was normal and that the good thing of the rain is that there's no big waves, it's true that the sea was quiet. We slept in the town of the panamenian border because the migration office was closed. The next morning they stamped our passport and in 20min more with a boat we arrived in Colombia. Such an adventure!<br /><br />Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-4414169574639574472017-05-22T16:57:00.002-07:002017-05-22T16:57:47.435-07:00Costa Rica<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Fa uns dies un noi anglès que no conec em va començar a seguir a l'Instagram. Vaig mirar quines fotos tenia i veig una foto d'un mono caputxí que havia tirat al Costa Rica Animal Rescue Center (CRARC) on havia fet un voluntariat. Ja fa temps que tenia al cap fer un voluntariat amb animals, així que vaig mirar la web del centre de rescat i tenia molt bona pinta. No m'ho vaig pensar dos cops i els hi vaig enviar un mail explicant que estavem viatjant, en uns dies arribariem a Costa Rica i si seria possible fer un voluntariat allà. No teniem experiència però si motivació, i ens van acceptar! <br /><br />Arribat el moment creuem la frontera de Nicaragua a Costa Rica i anem cap al CRARC. Aquest es troba a un entorn selvàtic a dues hores de la capital, San José. El CRARC rescata animals que han sofert algún problema físic o psicològic, els cuida i rehabilita, i si és possible, els allibera. Aquí arriben monos que sigut mascotes, o treballat en circs, perezosos que tenen discapacitats, mussols que s'han fet mal o que s'han quedat orfes, lloros, pavos reals, porc espins, kinkajus (ossos de la mel), opòssums (zarigüella), etc. Cada animal se'l bateja al arribar al centre i té la seva història personal. L'intenció sempre és reintroduir-los al seu hàbitat natural però a vegades han estat massa en contacte amb humans o tenen algun problema i no es poden reintroduÏr, llavors s'opta per dona'ls-hi la millor qualitat de vida possible. Com el tití, que se't tira a sobre perquè el raspallis amb un raspall de dents, o els kinkajus, que cada nit quan els anava a veure (durant el dia dormen) es posàven cap per avall i amb la panxa cap a fora perque els gratèssis. <br /><br />Al centre erem uns 20 voluntaris, de totes les edats, i amb tansols una setmana que hi hem estat hem fet molta amistat. Jo, desde el primer moment, m'he adaptat molt bé a l'entorn. Les tasques principalment eren netejar els espais dels diferents animals, donar-los branques fresques i menjar, cuidar-los, fer-los jugar, etc. Em va fascinar l'hospital d'animals on hi han alguns que requereixen especial atenció, com un opòssum bebé que estava a la incubadora, una mofeta, dos esquirols bebes, un ocell orfe, un mussol petit i tres perezosos amb problemes psicològics. Així que em vaig apuntar per fer torns extra a l'hospital i donar llet als animals bebes amb una xeringa. <br /><br />El primer dia em diuen que ha vingut un taxista i ha deixat un sac amb un mussol ferit que s'havia trobat, doncs jo còrrer a buscar el veterinari del centre. Un cop a l'hospital em diu que em posi guants i mascareta, i l'ajudi a aguantar el mussol per curar-li l'ala. Estava molt mal ferit i ja em va dir el veterinari que potser no sobrevivia, i la segona nit es va morir, una pena. Un altre dia van portar al centre un cèrvol petit amb la pota trencada, una boa constrictor de 2metres i un lloro. Cada dia passava alguna cosa.<br />
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<br />L'animal estrella del centre són els perezosos, n'hi ha uns 25, i la veritat és que és un animal fascinant. El nom no li vé de casualitat doncs són extremadament lents, mesuren cada moviment que fan i la major part del dia se'l passen dormint a dalt de l'arbre. Nomès baixen de l'arbre un cop per setmana a cagar, així que mai m'haguès imaginat que m'alegrès tant al veure caca d'un animal. Pots tenir molt contacte amb alguns animals però amb altres has d'evitar tocar-los per si es poden reintroduïr. Quan estava a la gàbia dels monos udoladors, em saltaven a sobre per jugar, m'agafaven dels cabells o em treien la llengua per lligar amb mi. Els esquirols també sempre se'm pujaven a sobre i després tenia problemes per sortir perquè me'ls treia de sobre i em tornaven a pujar. A més de la fauna del centre hi han espècies extres, com les 3 taràntules que he vist durant la setmana, una d'elles sempre estava al mateix forat així que podies anar-la a veure a la nit.<br /><br />Una nit mentres jugàvem al llop (un joc d'acusacions), van venir a cridar-me dues franceses voluntàries que tenien problemes per alimentar l'Artuito, un mussol petitó, perquè volava tota l'estona i els hi feia por que s'escapés. Em van avisar a mi perquè no parlàven gaire anglès i jo els hi parlava en francès. L'Artuito és un dels meus preferits, així que entro ràpidament a la gàbia perquè no s'escapi i em va volar a l'ombro, encara no m'ho havia fet mai. Així que va ser fàcil donar-li els trossos de pollastre que s'havia de menjar.<br />
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<br />Aquí realment hi ha moltíssima feina a fer ja que només porten 8 mesos en aquesta ubicació. La fundadora em va explicar que abans el centre de rescat estava a la costa carib, on també rescataven tortugues i protegien la platja on ponien els ous, fins que els va arribar un comunicat que havien que marxar d'alla en una setmana. Una empresa holandesa conjuntament amb el govern de Costa Rica construiria un port allà. Si continuaven protegint l'espècie podrien declarar la zona protegida i així evitar la contrucció del port, però van matar a un dels encarregats del centre, així que van decidir marxar. Van haver de traslladar tots els animals en molt poc temps a una nova ubicació, així que encara hi han moltes coses a fer. <br /><br />Ha estat una experiència meravellosa i estic molt orgullós d'haver-la viscut durant el viatge. La nit abans de marxar, vam sortir de festa amb la majoria de voluntaris i va ser molt divertit. Després d'haver dormit menys de dues hores, ens vam despertar per esmorzar i marxar, però ens estava esperant un regal de comiat, la gata del centre havia parit 5 gatets aquella nit! Tothom estava esperant aquest moment desde feia setmanes. <br /><br />Costa Rica és força car i és un dels països que es poden fer com un viatge independent en uns anys, així que decidim continuar cap a Panamà a veure quines sorpreses ens esperen.<br />
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<br />[ENGLISH]<br />Some days ago, a british guy that I don't know started following me on Instagram. I looked to his photos and I saw a photo of a capuchin monkey that he took in Costa Rica Animal Rescue Center (CRARC) where he did a volunteering. I had in mind for a long time doing a volunteering with animals, so I looked into the website of the rescue center and it seemed really nice. Therefore, I didn't think twice about it and I sent them an email explaining that we are travelling, in some days we would be in Costa Rica and if it would we possible doing a volunteering there. We didn't have experience with animals but we had motivation, so they accepted us! <br /><br />We crossed the border from Nicaragua to Costa Rica and we headed to CRARC, which is located in a jungle environment two hours away from the capital, San José. CRARC rescues animals that have suffered any kind of physical or psychological problem, they take care of them, rehabilitate them and, if it's possible, release them. The kind of animals that arrive there are monkeys that have been pets, that have worked in circus, sloths that have disabilities, injured owls or that are orphans, abandoned parrots, turkeys, porc epines, kingkajus, opossums, etc. Each animal receives a name when arriving to the center and all of them have a personal story. The goal is always releasing them to their natural environment, but sometimes they've been too much in contact with humans or they have a severe problem which avoids releasing them, then the approach is giving them the best possible quality of life. Like the marmoset, which jumps on you to get brushed with a teeth brush, or the kingkajus, that every night when I was going to see them (during the day they sleep) they were coming next to me, staying upside down, with the belly outside for you to scratch them. <br /><br />In the center we were around 20 volunteers from all ages and in only one week that we've been there, we've got along so well. From the beginning, I've adapted myself so well to the environment. The tasks were mainly cleaning the spaces for the different animals, giving them fresh branches and food, take care of them, play with them, etc. I was so fascinated with the animals hospital where some of them require special attention, like a baby opossum that was in the incubator, a skunk, two baby squirels, an orphan bird, a small owl and three sloths with psychological problems. So I signed up for doing extra shifts in the hospital and give milk to the baby animals with a syringe. <br /> <br />The first day, they told me that a taxi driver came and left a bag with an injured owl that he found, then I had to run to find the vet of the center. Once in the animal hospital, he told me to wear gloves and mask, and I should help him hold the owl to heal his wing. He was really bad injured and the vet told me that maybe it wouldn't survive. The second night it died, really sad. Another day they brought a smal deer with the broken leg, a two meters boa constrictor and a parrot. Everyday was happening something. <br /><br />The animal star of the center are the sloths, there's like 25 of them, and it's really a fascinating animal. The spanish name "perezoso" (lazy) is not a coincidence because they are extremely slow, they measure every movement they do and most of the day they sleep on top of the trees. They only go down the tree once a week to poo, so I wouldn't imagine myself being happy for seeing animal shit. You can have a lot of contact with some animals, but you have to avoid touching others that might be releasable. When I was in the howler monkeys cage, they were jumping on me to play, pull my hair or show me their tongue. The squirels also always were jumping on me and afterwards I was having problems to go out of the cage because I was putting them away and they were jumping on me again. Besides the animals from the center, there were extra species, like the three tarantulas I saw during the week, one of them was always in the same hole and you could go and see it at night. <br /><br />One night while we were playing the werewolf (a discussion game), two french volunteers called me because they were having problems to feed Artuito, a small owl, because it was flying all the time and they were afraid it would escape. They called me because they don't speak so well english and I was speaking french with them. Artuito is one of my favourites, so I quickly entered to the cage in order that it wouldn't escape and it flew onto my shoulder, it was the first time doing that. So it was easy giving it the pieces of chicken it had to eat. <br /><br />There's a lot of work to do because they've only been in this location for 8 months. The founder explained me that before the rescue center was in the caribean coast, where they were also rescuing turtles and they were protecting the beach where they were putting the eggs, until a communicate arrive that they had to leave in one week. A dutch enterprise together with the government of Costa Rica would build a harbour there. If they would continue protecting the turtles, they could declare it protected area and avoid the construction of the harbour, but someone killed one of the responsibles of the center, so they decided leaving the place. They had to move all the animals to a new location in a really short time, so there's still plenty of things to do. <br /><br />It has been a wonderful experience and I'm so glad having done it now. The night before leaving we partied with most of the volunteers. After less than two hours of sleep, we woke up to have breakfast and leave, but a farewell present was waiting for us, the cat of the center had given birth to 5 kittens that night! Everybody was waiting for it for some weeks. <br /><br />Costa Rica is really expensive and is one of the countries that I think I can do independently in some years, so we decided to continue to Panama. Let's see which surprises are waiting for us. Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4819397031869559577.post-4137124466890493992017-05-05T20:47:00.002-07:002017-05-05T20:47:41.202-07:00Nicaratwo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Video del viatge a Nicaragua en menys de 2 minuts amb un segon al dia.<br />
Video of the trip to Nicaragua in less than 2 minutes with one second everyday.<br />
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[ENGLISH FOLLOWS]<br />Ara mateix estic a un bus tipus bus escolar americà on estan posant una peli d'acció tipus Jackie Chan on un tio que sembla japonès acaba de saltar per sobre de 15 persones, travessar un mur per acabar dient "Que onda wei? Tenemos que platicar.". Contrastos constants són els que estic vivint en aquest viatge i més a la segona part d'aquest viatge a Nicaragua. <br /><br />Hi han dues maneres d'arribar a Corn Islands (islas del maiz), amb avió o per terra i vaixell, així que com que tinc més temps que pressupost, no hi vaig anar amb avió. No va ser curt però va ser tota una experiència. Sortim de l'illa volcànica d'Ometepe i desprès de tres busos i un vaixell arribem a el Rama, aquí literalment s'acaba la carretera. Baixem del bus i tot està a la més absoluta foscor, ens diuen que avui se n'ha anat la llum aquí, així que trec el frontal i trobem un allotjament cutre i barat per passar la nit. Malgrat no hi havia llum al poble, la nostra habitació donava a un local on tenien la música a tope alimentada per un grup elèctric, també és mala llet, però estava rebentat així que em vaig adormir a l'instant. <br /><br />L'endemà ens informen que hem tingut la sort que just surt un vaixell carguero cap a Corn Island, només n'hi han dos o tres a la setmana. El vaixell es diu Genesis, i era una predicció que això seria com l'arca de Noé amb espècies limitades; humans, porcs i vaques. Els nostres seients eren o bé el terra o caixes de cervesa, ara entenc perquè sempre et serveixen la cervesa amb un tovalló a la punta. Sort que una dona ens va avisar i vam comprar una hamaca al mercat. A poc més de dos metres, de tant en tant una pixada de vaca, un crit de porc, l'únic soroll constant era l'aigua i el motor. <br />
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<br />Després de 17 hores de trajecte i vàries parades on posàven i treien mercaderies, arribem a l'illa gran de corn island. Aquí ens allotjem a unes cabanyes d'un senyor que ens fa preu perquè venim recomanats i perquè serem dels seus últims clients, en una setmana tanca el negoci perquè es jubila. La platja està a 10 passes de l'allotjament i un escull de corall a 30 metres nadant. Pel carrer coneixem a l'Eliska i el Tim, una parella molt simpàtica amb els que anem cap a little corn island i compartim uns dies amb ells. <br /><br />L'illa gran és molt maca, encara que té un parell de peròs, cada dos per tres un taxi et pitava per si volies pujar i té una pista d'aterratge al mig de l'illa. Bé, doncs els peròs desapareixen a l'illa petita. No hi han vehicles de cap tipus, nomès bicicletes, i és veritablement paradisíaca. Si l'hi hagués de posar un pero diria que li canviessin el nom, doncs no vaig veure ni un blat de moro, el que si que hi havien eren mangos per tot arreu, així que l'anomenaria Mango Island. La naturalesa a l'illa és espectacular, hi ha selva per tot arreu, amb un munt de caminets per explorar, platges maquíssimes que envolten l'illa, bogavants per 5 euros amb el seu acompanyament i molta vida subaquàtica. Vaig aprofitar per fer snorquel o buceig cada dia, nomès per veure corall ja valia la pena, però quan veia mantes, taurons i bancs de peixos inmensos ja explotava de felicitat. <br /><br />Aquí ens vam allotjar a casa del Mr. James, un senyor de 80 anys que era tot un personatge. Passàvem moltes estones parlant amb ell i ens explicava la seva vida, que va arribar a l'illa el 1930 quan nomès eren 5 famílies, també filosofava molt amb el sentit de la vida, era molt interessant. <br /><br />Un dia passejant de platja en platja amb el Tim, l'Eliska i els Luis i recollint mangos, de cop sento un crec sobre meu, em cubreixo el cap amb els braços i em cau un coco just a la vora. Ja que casi em cau al cap, el recullo per menjar-nos-el. Al arribar a casa ens veiem al jardí amb un "machete" intentant obrir el coco i... no es tant fàcil com sembla. Ens crida una veïna per dir-nos "Así no! Ya os mando a mi hija para que os ayude." Venen corrent 4 nens i la mes gran, que tenia 8 anys, agafa el machete i comença a obrir el coco amb una destresa que ens deixa totalment en ridícul. No m'imagino a casa meva que ningú li deixi aquesta responsabilitat a una nena de 8 anys, sovint tendim a sobreprotegir-los, per això em sorprenen cada dia els nens aquí, els veig super madurs, espavilats i capaços de fer qualsevol cosa.<br />
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<br />L'anada a les illes va ser amb l'arca de Noé. A la tornada, continuant amb les cites religioses, posem les hamaques a sobre d'uns tancs plens de peixos amb gel i, de tant en tant, es multipliquen els peixos amb els fils de pescar i els hams que pengen de la popa del vaixell.<br /><br />Abans de creuar cap a Costa Rica passem pel Castillo, una població a la ribera del riu San Juan, on els espanyols van construir un castell per defensar el territori dels constants atacs pirates. Aquí, anem a la selva de la reserva indio maiz, on veiem monos, un cocodril, un perezoso, moltes papallones i granotes verinoses.<br />
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<br />Ja gairebé porto un mes a Nicaragua i la veritat és que m'ha encantat; he viscut molt les tradicions locals, he vist els grans contrastos entre la Nicaragua de l'est i de l'oest, l'amabilitat de la gent i la impressionant naturalesa. <br /><br />[ENGLISH]<br />Currently, I'm in a bus, like the ones from the american schools, where they are playing an action movie like the Jackie Chan ones, in which a japanese guy just jumped over 15 people, going through a wall to finish saying "Que onda wei? Tenemos que platicar." (mexican spanish). Constrasts like this one are the ones that I'm living in this trip and more in the second part of this trip to Nicaragua. <br /><br />There are two ways of reaching Corn Islands, by plane or by land and boat. Due to the fact that I have more time than budget, I didn't go by plane. It wasn't short but such an experience. We went out of the volcanic island of Ometepe and after three buses and a boat we arrived in El Rama, here the road ends. We left the bus and everything was completely dark, they told us that there was no light that night. So I got the flash light and we found a basic and cheap accomodation to spend the night. Although there was no light in the town, our room was just next to a local where they had really loud music powered by an electric group. What a bad luck, but I was so tired that I fell sleep immediately. <br /><br />The following day they informed us that we've been lucky because a cargo ship was leaving to Corn Island that day, there's only two or three every week. The boat is called Genesis, and it was a prediction that this was gonna be like the Noe Ark with limited species; humans, pigs and cows. Our seats were either the floor or beer boxes, now I understand why they always serve the beer with a napkin on the top. Luckily, a woman warned us and we bought a hamack in the market. A bit more than two meters from us, from time to time a cow was peeing, a pig was grunting, the only constant noise was the water and the engine. <br /><br />After 17 hours of journey and some stops where they were taking in and out goods, we arrived in big Corn Island. Here we stayed in some cabbins of a man that made us a good offer because we were coming recommended by a friend and we would be one of his last customers, he will close the business in a week because he is getting retired. The beach is 10 steps away and a coral reef is 30 meters away swimming. In the street we met Eliska and Tim, a really nice couple with who we went to little Corn Island together and we shared some days with them. <br /><br />The big island is so beautiful, although it has a couple of buts, every now and then a taxi was touching the horn if you wanted to get a ride and it has a plane landing road in the middle of the island. Well, those buts disappear in the small island. There's no vehicles, only bikes, and is really paradise. If I had to tell a but, I'd would say that they should change its name, because I didn't see a single corn there, but it was full of mangos everywhere, so I'd call it Mango Island. The nature in the island is amazing, it's full of jungle everywhere, plenty of paths to explore, beautiful beaches surounding the island, lobsters for 5 euros with its side dishes and a huge underwater life. I was doing snorkel or diving everyday, only to see the coral was worthy, but when I was seeing manta rays, sharks and huge banks of fishes I was exploting of happiness. <br /><br />We stayed in Mr. James' house, an 80 years old man who was such a character. We spent long times talking with him and he was explaining us his life, that he arrived in the island in 1930 when only 5 families were living there, also he was philosophing about the sense of life, it was so interesting. <br /><br />One day walking from beach to beach with Tim, Eliska and Luis, and collecting mangos, suddenly I heard something breaking above me, so I covered my head with the arms and a coconut fell down just next to me. Due to it almost fell on my head, I collected it to eat <br />it. When we arrived at home, we were in the garden with a "machete" (big knife) trying to open the coconut and... it's not that easy as it seems. A neighbour shouted us to say "Not like this! I'll send you my daughter to help you". Four children came into our home running and the oldest one, who was 8 years old, took the "machete" and started opening the coconut with such a skill that left us totally ridiculous. I can't imagine anyone in my home allowing this responsability to an eight years old girl. Often, we use to overprotect them, that's why everyday the children here they surprise me, I see them really mature, awake and capable to do anything. <br /><br />The way to the islands was with Noe Ark. On the way back, continuing with the religious quotes, we put the hamacks above some tanks full of fishes and ice and, from time to time, the fishes were multiplied by the fishing strings and the hook that hang from the stern of the cargo boat. <br /><br />Before crossing to Costa Rica, we go to El Castillo, a village next to the river San Juan, where the spanish built a castle to defend the territory of the continuous pirat attacks. Here, we went to the jungle in the reserve Indio Maiz, where we saw monkeys, a crocodile, an sloth and poisonous frogs. <br /><br />I've been almost a month in Nicaragua and the truth is that I love it; I've lived so much the local traditions, I've seen the big contrasts between the eastern and western Nicaragua, the kindness of the people and the amazing nature.Jordi Ribehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07731109767480529599noreply@blogger.com1